bloke_zero

I got one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GYWLR9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I liked the outcome - it was gentler than I expected, but I fully reccomend trying it out on another piece of wood first. It took some of the sharpness off the fret edges as well.

That's my favorite for MM. Mainly use parallel and some single for when thin and gritty is needed. There isn't quite enough distance between the coils to get much variation. Series often a bit overblown for me, but I can imagine it might come in handy.

Cool project!

Where from? All I'm seeing is this one: https://www.lightningboyaudio.com/2020s.html Edit - sorry, I wasn't looking right: https://lightningboyaudio.com/store/p69/mic_input_transformer.html

I agree - setting the neck relief before adjusting the bridge saddles is the best way. Trying to fix these problems without the right neck relief can be impossible.

& my mate Max says 'action so low it slaps itself'. I dunno how useful that is though!

It's not easy to get a good slap tone! There are a bunch of good videos - Scott is always good!

Here is the Albridge - I'm pretty happy with it. Below 👇 https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk//hardware-parts-c1/bridges-tailpieces-c2/bass-c96/armstrong-music-musicman-style-bass-bridge-chrome-p2093/s2780 Has tracks for the bridge pieces so they don't shift around like the ones on yours.

Sounds great - very even and defined. There is such an incredbible range on the Lusithand that I started having to take notes on the good ones. Especially when you get into blending pickups. I still really like the filter boosted and totally open or just pulled down a notch - adds a lovely air and bite. The turners really seem to add to the clarity and definition!

You're already getting better results than me! Ok, time to get some kind of mini anvil!

I tried this - I reccomend experimenting with a spare enclosure or something. The amount of force required to get a good imprint is quite high, so you will want to have a piece of wood inside directly supporting the metal as you strike it, otherwise it is possible to dent/deform the metal. I think they also flow ink inside the stamped indentation or something as otherwise it's pretty illegible. In my head I think it went: 1. stamp lettering, 2. clean with IPA (so ink can stick), 3. ink lettering, 4. buff/clean surface. But that was just what I thought on the basis of not having really got it right. Look forwards to seeing your results - it's a lovely aesthetic as you say! As for getting the finish - maybe dremel? Though you probably want something with a larger polishing surface so it's nice and even.

Tone words mean nothing?! I feel like I'm understanding you more clearly than I do many people!

It was mostly unticked for me, except a few which, like Velarian, were pre-ticked but greyed out so couldn't untick them.

I'd be thinking about these: https://www.emgpickups.com/bass/j-models/jvhz-set.html I have the GZR P-bass version and it sounds right to me. I'm not an expert on jazz pickups though!

If you're using firefox you can turn on Strict Tracking Protection which should block these. It's a sad fact of modern life that the commercial model for much of the internet is this data farming. Installing an adblocker like uBlock origin and disabling tracking is a must for me.

If I were in the same boat I'd carefully remove all the electronics by desoldering the output connection and replace with new pickups and wiring harness - that way you could always replace the old set with minimal disruption. Before I did that I'd try some experiments with carefully clamping the headstock etc to try and rule out weird resonance on the E - it'd be gutting to do all that and then find the problem was still there! Nordstrand are good - they tend towards the more modern but I've had good results. Depends what tone you're after!

Some of the settings are disconcerting, especially the special features. I understand there is a cost to running the servers and all the good work that goes in to the site. This has just nudged me into paying my subscription again! But are all those privacy settings really required? It's all well and good to have an assurance that this information isn't being used, but as someone who is very careful with their privacy (out of cussedness as much as anything else) I feel uncomfortable with having my devices profiled etc. (Yes I have denied that permission, run uBlock Origin etc etc.)

Wow - that was a real journey! Came out well in the end! Did the reso-lites solve the neck dive?

Great work! I'm a big fan of the reverse P - I hope it works out well for you!

We all care! It's a situation I can empathise with. I have an enclosure I drilled 1 too many holes in 5 years ago and replaced - I'm still wondering what I can put in there!

Ampeg are pretty good in this regard: https://ampeg.com/products/pedals/ I have the SCR-DI and although it's fussy about input level (there is an internal dip switch for high output inputs 😐 ) it sounds pretty good and has aux in and phones

A big part of the original stingray sound (given the pickup position near the bridge being quite bright) was the preamp. I'm sorry this is in German but it's the clearest explanation I could find (with diagrams!): https://andyszeugs.wordpress.com/musicman-stingray-classic-preamp/ There are several options for preamps.

Not with adjustment per se, but these guys seem to suggests they might make a custom bridge with your string spacing?: https://www.albridgeparts.com/ - I have one and I'm very happy with it, very well made and thought out. Hard to find MM bridges generally! Let us know if you have any joy.

Frustrating getting dust of any kind into the grain! I know what you mean about the barrage of information - sometimes you have to get involved to find out what is actually important the hard way. Worth it though!