Stub Mandrel

I use 13A twin core mains cable.

In the past I've found it useful to play along to drum rudiments. I also trg to vary my rhythm when playing certain songs. Perhaps most of us don't think about naming rhythms or consciously learning them, perhaps shuffles and bo diddley... or just play along to different drum machine rhythms without actually breakingthem down. I was listening to 'Add to Playlist' earlier and they mentioned Samba rhythm. It made me think 'how is a samba constructed?' I found this short video interesting: Spoiler: it does not mention samba...

Thinking about it what I'm wanting* is: Some noticeable compression low down so when I dig in I can get my amp to overdrive but don't blow the roof off (see your comment above). Enough middle boost so dusty end widdles cut through. Add top end clarity to compensate for strings a tad past their best and bring out some clank if I go 'Entwhistle' or slappy. *a sub-editor who can type?

A 15 ½ hour used tobe a leap of faith, but the K1 Max is, so far, very reliable. The slicer is basically a version of Cura. These days a 'mesh' is printed to support undersurfaces. The tree supports came loose with a gentle press and the finish on the supported surfaces needs no finishing.

Funnily enough, I finally got around to playing with my spectracomp today. I saw a gig and the bass player had way more compression than I normally use and it did work. But I want enough dynamics to ride my amp's gain and get results from my autowah. The Nathan East setting is pretty good. The trapdoor one is insane, totally impractical but I'd love to wig out with it and an octaver! A lot of the funk ones felt pretty samey, although they opened up te top end well. I can't remember which I chose now, but I went for a three band with a slightly more rounded bass. I would appreciate a greater understanding of the presets and what the knob does for each one. I couldn't find the editor... To be brutal, I suspect the single knob compression on Joyo amps is at least as effective for rock. I also think I spent most of my time looking for the 'better knob' effect my TC Forcefield has and not finding it.

I am constantly grateful for a rig where I can have amp on a shoulder strap, cab in one hand and bass in the other.

There are people around here who would turn around and run away if they saw a stack as uneven a that 🤣

My brother wants a pedalboard and was looking at 3D printed end pieces. I don't know if this will work but it's a fully 3D printed design, quite thick walls, obviously. I clicked normal instead of fast, so the printer is saying it will take 15 hours+ I may need to add strengthening ribs (particularly for the middle strip) and maybe make more space for a PSU inside, but I have lots of red filament (thanks for the tip, @rwillett although not 36 rolls!) Happy to share the STL once debugged.

Print some temporary plugs to fit the holes?

The Affinity is 32", but the legendary Squier Vintage Modified Short Scale is definitely 30".

Jaguar SS are a bit special though 🤩

Insight(?) into our creative process 🤣

The Achievers last Saturday. Anyone who enjoys great songwriting with excellent musicianship delivered with a touch of humour between songs will enjoy this band. At Temperance in Leamington Spa. A tiny basement venue with a capacity not much above thirty.

Just had a decent Bendricks Rock rehearsal. No new stuff tonight, just turd polishing ahead of Saturday. Got a nice tone from the Squier40th Anniversary P. and added a few extra flourishes.

Honesty is the best policy.

Can you smooth tuffcab with a brush to get a flat finish around ports etc.?

Having played with dmx, it should make setup easier... just a couple of long cables to link the t-bars. No messing around setting up individual units as the controller will set them up. I'm aiming for no more than choosing a preset or a bank and a speed between songs which should only take a few moments. I might do one or two chases later.

I bought two reall cheap 'par' lights that just turned out to be non-dmx with an ir controller identical to those used for light bulbs. One set to a warm yellow and the other to a magentaish colour either side of us are useful as some constant illumination. The lasers @Phil Starr mentions are a great idea. A bit hit and miss about what you get, I have three and one is rather more powerful. I always aim them up at the ceiling.

I thought there were a few reggae bassists 😁

Hard to know what icon to put on that. I hope everything goes right and you aren't put through the mill too much on the journey to recovery. Keep gigging and share your stories.

It's purple and sparkly...

For £300 you can get 6-8 LED PAR cans, two mini moving spotlights and a dmx controller (TEMU), xlr cables, and a pair of t-bar stands (CPC). I know you can because I did.

Seriously, I have basses with all levels of jack socket. My experience is that when the single spring returns to that position, it's got many years of useful life in it. I have instruments from the 60s, 70s and 80s with original sockets tgat look just like that. But yes I've seen that type fail and become noisy/intermittent, always a poorly tempered spring that takes a set and doesn’t return to its proper position. My experience suggests it usually happens fairly soon in the life of the instrument.. I happily accept there are good and bad quality examples, and visually they are virtually indistinguishable. YMMV, of course.

Would be posher if I was better at it! But good on Steve who made us try.

That flmsy socket looks a long way from becoming unreliable. Tne contact is virtually aligned with the midline of the socket.