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Stub Mandrel

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Stub Mandrel

  1. Are you sure? It sounds very different when he digs in to the Am chords
  2. Thanks Andy, that's almost a short book on the subject! I still have to find my router (It's a long story) but it will be one step at a time anyway. Wish me luck!
  3. If this doesn't do the job, you're dead.
  4. If off to rehearsal... on tenterhooks! 🙂
  5. Actually... I have a spirit-based stain. Does this make a difference?
  6. From Luthier's warehouse. It had about five times as many watchers as any other bodies they had up, so I stopped umming and ahing just went for it! Now I have to do it justice. That bubinga looks pretty much what I'm hoping for finish wise Sounds like it might be acceptable to leave the holes. They are very small. That would make life easier. So I could (having also seen some online stuff): Use router to round over corners, sand corners around pickup holes, neck pocket. Use red water based stain around the outside. Sand back a bit. Use yellow stain over whole body. Use the slurry method with Tru-Oil to finish. So best to sand manually and follow the grain. Question: is water based stain going to be OK?
  7. First thanks tpo everyone fopr lots oif useful comment and suggetsions! 1. The picture (from Luthiers warehouse) shows it wiped with alcohol, apparently. I wouldn't want less contrast, ideally a bit more. 2 The holes are tiny ~1mm and in dark areas. A dark filler might be inconspicuous.
  8. Yes, just temeprament. But I think other things are going on in blues, with its roots in the minor pentatonic and African music.
  9. Perhaps if a mod could move to build threads? @Jabba_the_gut @Chopthebass @Rexel Matador
  10. More likely you are defaulting to true temperament, this is not unusual for voice or violin, for example.
  11. I'm waiting for the refined sound of the Laney Sutton Coldfield.
  12. How would you fit one? No More Nails? Ah. thinks about it - Spirits have through necks too. My comment was based on the other one using neck screw holes.
  13. I know it's a mock-up, but before it's too late, you do know the pickup covers are the wrong way round to how they were cut out. I wouldn't say, except you said you are keen for everything to match! It's beautiful timber and great woodworking as well by the way! (I've run out of reactions...)
  14. No, but we have vast quantities of sycamore growing here (native to southern Europe). The Americans just count it as a type of maple, sometimes 'sycamore maple' but usually just maple. The timber is functionally and visually the same, at least to the likes of us. It's likely that many 'maple' basses are in fact sycamore. https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/sycamore-guitar-neck-blank-type-a.html
  15. A Basschat member sent me a Squier neck in this absolutely brilliant packaging. I'm really unlikely to use it again, and they don't need it either, so rather than put it all in the recycling I'm happy to pass it on to a basschat member. Collect or drop off in the Vale/Newport areas or I can post at cost. No photo but it's two very robust boxes as used by Fender for international shipping. Neil
  16. I want to finish a spalted burl maple body, with a Uruguayan mahogany back. Yes it's one of those, but there seem to be more luthiers here than on GC. I have looked at lots of online stuff and asked in a specialist store, but all I got was partial or contradictory. Having done a couple of nitro-finished bodies I want to try a satin oiled finish. I bought some lovely red spirit stain, but the salesperson seemed to think I shouldn't use it with oil? This doesn't seem right but advice sought. I want to use an airbrush to spray the red stain around the outside, sunburst style where the wood is less figured, and leave the centre plain. Then finish with an oil that will enhance the figure and give an amber colour. Sort of like this: Would Tung Oil be a good choice on its own, or should I use a yellow/amber stain first? The burl has only very small holes, I was thinking of using either a water-based neutral filler or a gold-glitter loaded glue... years ago my daughter managed to get some on one of those oil-finished coffee tables and it seemed quite durable... will this work or will it stop the oil from taking? As for the back, it's typical mahogany with fairly modest grain that seems bit open. What sort of prep should I give before using the stain/oil on it. Sanding sealer? Filler? Finally, how do I apply the TUng oil. Does it just soak in, or does it build up like Danish oil? How do I get a satin finish rather than a glossy one?
  17. Must admit I was impressed by that effect, but aghast at the price. This beasty is a fifth of the cost:
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