Stub Mandrel

They destroyed then in the sense they stopped them reforming. It's no accident that five years after Kurt's passing, they reformed. They looked like a hair metal band when I saw them at Reading in 1983. That posting was intended as humour, y'all know...

I meant the bassline. Phil wasn't the most politically correct of frontmen...

Bang goes my theory then...

There's gratitude for you!

It does give a point to changing key though.

Drummer "Oh fack, I've left the snare off...!"

Candidate for the 'famous quotes thread' when taken out of context 🤣

As someone with a vertical 2x12, my understanding is that this improves dispersion in the horizontal plane, and is actually worse in the vertical. Am I right @Bill Fitzmaurice? I'm happy to have a bit more headroom and the amp not working as close to its limit. Plus if I need to fall back on my Elf, it's only 130W into 8R, but 200 into 4R, which combined with an efficient cab takes it into the 'practical option for any gig' territory.

I've done it with a pick but I wasn't comfortable, and I don't think I was as anywhere near as well as I should have been. Audience didn't seem to mind. I find it easier to keep the tempo with fingers and play the chords by either pulling the strings together or flicking my fingernails across the strings together which gives a different but equally aggressive sound.

Do you have the 'new' Pitchblack Custom? If so it's 0.1 cent.

Top Ten Hair Metal Bands Utterly Destoryed By Nirvana. Hanoi Rocks Skid Row Warrant Britny Fox Poison Dave Lee Roth Cinderella Motley Crue Err... ... that's enough hairspray - Ed.

I will drop a couple of 3" holes in a jiffy bag. Just pop a donation in "El Papa's Collection Box" 🙂

It's an interesting issue, and I thought it was worthy of wider discussion than just diagnosing what may be an issue with a single bass. In another thread, a similar issue is raised, but the person querying is using a TU2. I've just checked and the TU2 has an 'accuracy' of +/- 3 cents (the TU3 is +/- 1 cent). Two people with the 'same' problem yet one is using a tuner that is thirty times more 'accurate' (the manufacturers may mean precise). There's a real possibility that one bass needs a good setup and the other is fine, but if +/- 1 0.1 cent tuners become the norm we will see these issues a lot more. How did we cope when we had to tune by ear to a reference ?

That should be fun to play 🙂

See the thread linked below. Recently a member has posted concerns about an apparently well set up bass being 'out of tune' when played near the nut or beyond the twelfth fret. I'm thinking the culprit may well be the new Korg Pitchblack Custom Strobe Tuner. This is 'accurate to 0.1 cent.' The ear is sensitive to tone differences of about 4-5 cents "the interval of one cent is too small to be perceived between successive notes." A typical tuner has a precision of 1 cent. 0.1 cent is 1/1000 of a tone (let's ignore the logarithmic nature as we are looking at tiny errors). That's a distance of about 1.5 thousandths of an inch at the first fret. To be accurate to 0.1 cent, the first fret would need to be placed to an accuracy of about 1.5% of its width. For the last fret, it would need to be placed with an accuracy of less than 0.5% of its width. Basses are generally made of wood not metal and working to such accuracy is almost impossible to achieve. Even the way someone frets a note can differ between players (or styles of playing) enough to shift the tone by a cent or more. Most strings drift by a cent from when they are struck to once the note has settled. I forecast two impacts of these new 'super accurate' tuners: People taking ages to tune up and never being satisfied because they drift out of tune after every song. More and more people reporting that they can't set up their instruments to be in tune all along the fretboard. It's a regular issue in engineering that nothing waste more time and effort than trying to work to an accuracy greater than is needed simply because the measuring equipment offers greater precision than the jobs requires. That's why the concept of 'tolerances' was developed, and I suspect we need to cultivate the concept of a tolerance of 'within one cent' as the gold standard when tuning and setting up instruments.

The question that has to be asked is - how flat/sharp? The Westone I have next to me, when tuned so E is in tune open and at 12th fret, but the first fret (F) is a tiny bit flat (in tune indicator and the one to the left both lit) and the 20th fret (C) is tiny bit sharp. A Squier Jag SS is spot on. That's with a Snark Super Tight. But you are the second person to report this issue in a few days with a Korg Pitchblack Strobe. "the new Pitchblack Custom has an incredible +/- 0.1 cent accuracy". Bearing in mind that the ear can typically detect errors of around 2 cents, and most tuners are sensitive to 1 cent, what this really means is that "the new pitchblack custom magnifies any tiny tuning errors making you paranoid".

Sorry, I miss-typed. If the nut is cut high, fretting lower notes means you have to overstretch the strings making the notes sharper the closer you get to the nut. Combined with excessive neck bow this could cause the symptoms you describe.

"Now to lay to rest any ugly rumours that John Glascock is a kinky bastard who like being thrashed severely across the bum, we'll do it only very slightly in the next song."

I suspect you mean that bit right of the bridge. It's down to the way the grain goes there, it's a big patch all of similar orientation. I realised this morning that I needed to stain inside the lower pickup rout as it's not under the scratchplate - I did actually rub come extra stain into that area, but I'm not sure it made much difference.

Light, 4 ohm and very loud.

But you could go to Tandy and buy a box with a 15" woofer in it 'for bass you can really feel' (and almost certainly, a tweeter with the dome punched in.) 🙂 I've got a pair of Phillips 'w00x' speakers with a tuned resonant passive radiator. For their size (about the same as my Kef Coda 7s) they have remarkable bass handling capability, although I guess they are less efficient than typical bass cabs. Is there any strong reason why passive radiators aren't used for bass cabs?

There's one obvious name forever associated with Jaydee basses... https://www.jaydeecustomguitars.co.uk/mark_king.html

If the nut isn't cut deep enough, you stretch the higher strings when fretting them, making them sharp.