Stub Mandrel

I agree. I think there should also be sections for other rare and esoteric basses: Ugly basses Basses people are selling because they don't like them. Basses that sound horrible Basses that people don't really want to sell but are just testing the water or mollifying an annoyed spouse.

Stcky Labella is sleeping with the fishes. The Post-It Mob got him.

It's possible, but highly unlikely, you have done something that's created a significant amount of extra capacitance in the lead

Just turn the little knob on top. https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/np2rx-timbre

I'm waiting for a cheap secondhand neck from the Netherlands. It got as far as Oirschot, but is now well on its way back to the sender 😞 They say it's got the right address on it. No Cites declartion?

Just measured two basses at ~1.7 to 1.8 mm at twelfth fret.. Then a short scale at nearly 3mm - yet it feels really easy to play because of the low string tension and I don't think I would want to drop it any more. My fretless is nearer to 4mm, perhaps it could come down a smidge.

'snomobiles

I had one sprayed with by a car paint shop, but it was years ago by a mate but only cost a few beers.

Our guitarist's dad has PA/sound as his hobby, so he deals with all the PA. Lots of it. On teh plus side this means we get excellent sound. The downside is that it takes an age to set up and twice as long to pack up.

Depends who paints it...

Is there cake?

OK, one isn't a Jazz, but it was originally intended as the 'new Jazz'.

I'm in!

Let's Get Ready To Crhumble!

Stop that! It's silly mid on!

And he still hasn't signed up for free music lessons!

I can find myself gritting my teeth...

You're going to be so disappointed when you get that out of the box:

A zero fret is typically set a little higher than normal frets. I think this is because with a normal fret you have a finger pushing down behind it, which angles the string up a touch. The zero fret doesn't have this. You'll have noticed that fret buzz can sometimes be mitigated by pressing harder or closer to the fret - the same effect, particularly noticeable with heavier gauge strings.

So you didn't measure nut height at the same time?

You may also have been measuring the level of expertise in using a micrometer, if each person did their own...

It's interesting to think about what relief (concave) does. For a given amount of action at the twelfth fret, relief makes minimal impact on the frets near the 12th fret. As you move along the neck towards the nut, the action reduces more slowly than with a flat neck. This reduces buzzing on the lower notes and compensates for the longer the causing greater excursion (the amount the string moves back and forth). As you move beyond the twelfth fret, the action reduces more rapidly than with a flat fretboard. However, the extra stiffness around the neck joint makes this a less significant amount and the rapidly reducing excursion of the strings means this shouldn't be a big issue. Buzzing occurs when either the next fret (or rarely the next but one) is high, or a fret is low. The differences are often on the scale of a thousandth of an inch or even less. Assuming that the frets are decently levelled, buzzing on the higher notes usually means that there is too much neck relief (or there's a 'ski jump' as mentioned earlier). This is particularly likely if buzzing happens in multiple places. Similarly, buzzing on low notes (not open strings, which is a poorly cut nut) means too little or convex neck relief. One way of getting very low action is to set up the bass, then add a little more truss rod tension which will reduce the action by a 'smidgin' but barely affect the string angles on the highest frets. If this does cause a buzz on low notes, put the relief back on. In most cases it will be OK or a little buzz close higher than the 12th fret. In this case you may need to slightly raise one or two saddles, but should still end up with lower action than before.

That's a yorker!