Stub Mandrel

😛

Giraus/Moebius, that's it! Thanks! TLRTs are 'those little reaction thingies' in the corner ------>

I used to have a book of comic art with examples of that guy's work, but I've forgotten his name. Can you tell me what it is? P.S great looking builds BTW, but I've run out of TLRTs!

At elast it hadn't got a Fender pickguard still sticker on it... 🙂

My brother who gave me the green DiMarzio stacked humbucker several years ago (he got it in the 80s, it's older than the guitar) suggested I take the cover off. It was a mission, but:

Machine heads came for my Tele. This used to be a vanilla bottom-of-the-specs Korean Squier I bought in about 87:

Never had you down as a speed metaller Bilbo!

Supper's Ready. And I'm proud of it so there!

I did one experiment with heating a board up under the grill for a chip whose pads were totally under the chip. It actually worked! But you need to treat all the pads with solder paste using a cocktail stick, luckily it only had about six pads. I think a good way to do large chips would be solder paste and a rework gun. More than one person has actually made their own reflow oven.

And a 1mm diameter soldering iron tip!

Rats! I've been waiting for weeks to watch that live and missed my reminder email!

Can you recommend a source of not-to-expensive-in-case-I-screw-up timber for a first ground-up build. I was thinking body - something fairly vanilla, neck maple, fingerboard anything dark and nice veneer for the front of the body. I've got everything else I need except a bridge, and I can make one as my hobby is metalworking. I even stole a bone off the do so I can make a bone nut. But if definitely needs to be both cheap and easily obtained otherwise I'll end up ordering a kit!

Bouree, Jethro Tull version. I found a reliable tab (I think it misses quite a few grace notes) but there's one bit I can't quite get the feel for that's just tabbed as rather odd slides where I may need to look at a video. Other than that its mostly getting my head around the different variations and combinations. Some time ago I recorded a bit from memory and no-one could guess what it was, turned out to be the flute solo where the bass goes quiet... if I can learn it and drop that into the gap, I've got a nice piece that stands up as a bass-only melody.

Not a pedal but how about this?

What reading do you get across C4?

Sounds like the best thing to do with a double bass is leave it in the shop 🙂 How do all those rockabillies get away with standing on the things? Is it possible top get 'Mil Spec' versions?

Very nice indeed and you have a very attractive and distinctive personal body style. Although I would inset the coloured dots into the knobs as they look naff. (Sorry if that seems harsh, but your basses as to such a high standard I think it's fair to draw attention to something I really don't like).

There's a satisfaction when you reach the point where you can tell a tab is awol.

I think it goes almost without saying that paper cones will get less stiff over time and this will have an effect on sound. I struggle to think of any practical benefits of 'breaking them in' though, as they are designed and capable of taking full output from the moment they are installed.

There would be, because when switched in it would put a dc offset on the output, it would then work normally because the capacitor on the amplifier input would convert it to a transient.

For people who hate string silks being on the bridge peices?

That sounds odd. Can you post the circuit? Could be a short across output capacitor. Is it switched on all the time or is it switched on by the footswitch?

Works for me - you need to be logged in I suspect... Then you get an 'apply coupon code' box on the left side of your basket. I'm really tempted by their version of a Tube Screamer for £31 except its got fluorescent yellow knobs...

I'm not very good at judging things liek tah, I think it made it more 'meaty' but that might just have been more output.

All that rally matters is that you test and make sure the magnets are the same way around as the existing pole pieces. The physics is that, whatever type of magnet your pickup has what matters is the strength of the magnetic field around the strings. The existing poles will help direct the field towards the strings but its strength will be dominated by the sheer strength of small neodymium magnets. One issue I found when I 'supercharged' my Squier Jazz was that the magnets were strong enough to cause the signal to 'wow' at a low frequency. This suggests they are powerful enough to drive other strings and generate beats through intermodulation. The cure is simple - move the pickups away from the strings - you will probably want to do this anyway. My magnets (a quid or two off ebay) are 3mm thick, 5mm diameter.