Stub Mandrel

...I'd Do It All Over You 🙂 You can tell it's Caravan the moment the keys come in.

How on earth is the neck attached. It seems longer underneath as if there's no tongue under it and the body is recessed? What a car crash.

Here you go, worth its weight in, err, high impact polethylene? https://www.toolstation.com/dowelling-jig/p22284

Well compared to my traces it does like like you have a lot of high frequency noise but I think that could be the mic/computer. On the other hand the middle traces look a bit 'flat topped' on the higher peaks which would sound like the mild distortion/odd harmonics effect you are getting. So this could be the issue. As only on half a cycle, this could be an offset bias, a failing power supply capacitor or another component on the way out. Next step get someone to take a proper look. Ah well at least we've had some fun....

Probably getting clipped, mine does that I had to move the mic back. When you go to the page a popup should appear asking for permission to access the mic, if you miss it and don't click yess it won't work.

PM sent

Won't stretch my workshop's facilities much, but i'm happy to do it if you post them to me, drop me a PM and I'll reply with my address 🙂

So it was all a ploy... Just for comparison: My A string, neck pickup, tone rolled back: D string, bridge pickup, tone on: Both of my signals look 'smoother'; than yours:

A boot was originally a storage box on a horse-drawn carriagem, in contrast to a suitcase strapped on as an afterthought. 🙂 Just as a bonnet is more up-market headgear than a hood 🙂

I've got a fantastic little plastic jig for dowelling, I just use that straight off, no screws, when I work plywood these days. Used them to make this box:

You're looking to get something like this, you may need to experiment with which note you use and thw volts/ division setting. Note the use of 'freeze display' to stop it dancing about:

Strange! I could swear I posted this earlier... https://academo.org/demos/virtual-oscilloscope/

Does it have a built in mic? Try going that website and see what happens. you just play into the mic and click the box to 'freeze' the waveform and take a screen grab.

All desperate to play on Rod's twanger...

One of Richie's lesser-known accomplishments 🙂

Here's an idea. Stick a microphone into your computer and use this to grab what the waveform looks like. Use a good, clean signal like a E or A with the treble rolled off and finger-plucked at the middle to get as clean a signal as possible. Then share a screen grab and we can see if the distortion is visible (it might not be).

I have pretty much got the first two pages (out of 4 1/2) of Joy Joy down now. I can play all the bits up to speed but working on fluencey and getting transitions between the sections better. Amazed how much faster I can play now than a week ago!

I'm a big fan of Joyo pedals. They sent me this discount code today, should work for anyone:

Looks like in your circuit it's TR10 that does the job (top centre). The heatsink compound on it does look a bit suspect. You could try gently poking it to see if it is in good contact with the heatsink. This is your amp: https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Ashdown/Ashdown_apc033xa_schematic.pdf

Fitin' talk! Put up yer dooks!

Stiffness of board is proportional to tht cube of thickness so 18mm will be (best Hugh Cornwell voice - let me pause for reflection) over 3 times as stiff as 12mm board for 1 1/2 time the weight.

*blob, not bolb.

This ashdown amp uses TR5 on the heatsink (near bottom right - it even says 'on heatsink' on the circuit diagram!) to prevent crossover distortion. If that's your problem see if you can spot a small transistor that (should be) bonded to the heatsink between the big power transistors. If it looks like its come away a small bolb of heat-transfer compound and gently pushing it back in place could cure the problem. (Of course, I could be completely wrong and it's something else altogether).

Crossover distortion is if the amplifier isn't set for enough bias current, so when the signal 'crosses over' from negative to positive there's a brief moment where the signal is cut off. It tends to be more noticeable with softer signals as it doesn't increase with volume. Basically the half of the amp that does the top of the signal is switching off before the half that does the bottom switches on. If yours in is a linear class B amplifier (rather than a class D) there's a biasing arrangement in there to prevent it happening. This can go wrong. Sometimes its as simple as adjusting a preset to get the right 'quiescent current' or it could be a diode or transistor needs replacing. The most common cause is when a transistor is used to set the bias current and kept at the same temperature as the power transistors by being held against the same heatsink. If it comes lose you get crossover distortion that gets worse as the amp warms up. Easy to spot if you have a scope (see picture above) but needs a bit of amp repair experience to fix.

Ah... I had assumed that you number them sequentially. No wonder I thought you were respraying them!