Stub Mandrel

Bigger than my KX1 Max.

Fairly. Several examples of 3D printed bodies in the discussion, with and without timber reinforcement.

Saw this on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10228351445764478&set=gm.3235462746747599&idorvanity=1700252256935330

The Fortunate Sons featuring Basschat's Andy ' @Gottastopbuyinggear'😁 Got the Ex's jumpin!

I do a lot of 3D printing (FFD and resin). It's not the ideal material. But... it's possible. I think frets wouldn't be hard wearing enough. A large machine would be needed, and it's likely a truss rod would be required. Resin printing might be the best way. I like the ingenuity shown in this design. Very different from how I would have done it, but that doesn't mean my approach would be better! Think I would have gone for a more radical shape. Also I often use machine screws direct into the print - which works OK if they are not repeatedly removed, strength is enough that the print destroys itself before the screws pull out. The biggest issue is that most FFD prints will creep under constant tension/compression, being thermoplastics.

I'v had a gig free few weeks 😞 but managed to sit in with several people on jam nights... from rockabilly to comforably numb in 20 minutes! Must admit it can get hairy when people use a capo, you don't know the song and you're tryiny to read a chord sheet over the guitarist's shoulder. Still three gigs over the next three weeks, including the front bar of the Earl Haig - we normally play the big stage there bug the atmosphere in the front bar is intense so really looking forward to it. Plus the great three tuns in Chepstow and our first time at Taff's Wells exies 🤪

Soft soldering very different skill set to brazing, although they both work similarly. Filler metal relies on a flux to creat the oxide free environment where filler metal can flow by capillary atteaction and form an intermetallic bond. Lead vs lead free is mostly just a higher temp needed in terms of making the joint. A drop of leaded can help melt big, stubborn lead free joints by improving how iron contacts the joint and slightly dropping the melting point.

So the next band is now the Fortunate Sons featuring @Gottastopbuyinggear of this parish.

No Robert Plant... put back a week and moved to another venue due to RAAC at St David's hall. A week before the performance they suddenly realise more tickets than seats. Cancel all tickets (to be refunded in 15 days) and limit people to rebooking no more than two tickets. We were two in a party of four booked by someone else. In the end none of us could be bothered to try and get tickets.

Bass 6 (since giving two away) Guitar 5, but two of these are Blacksrar Flies.

Afraid I'm in Wales, but perhaps someone here is closer?

I have a microtilt neck on my Fender Performer. Never had the need to make use of it. Irony is that a three-point approach is an excellent engineering solution if the mating faces are not great. But wood has enough compliance to compensate for inaccuracies.

100 budget? Buy the bass and amp. Are the strings flats (smooth) or rounds. If the former, they last ages. If roundwound, spend your change on a set of decent strings, strap, a cheap stand and a good quality lead. Where are you? Someone from basschat will probably be happy to help you do a bcasic setup.

Look up 'capacitor plague' on Wikipedia.

Rude Not to for 50! But do try some well set up entry level basses at a (good) music shop near you.

I'm launching a range of laser-cut 'tone cards' made from a wide selection of carefully chosen boutique materials from 1990s Amex Gold Cards to original 1960s Kelloggs Cornflake packets. By choosing the correct shim your bass will immediately benefit form greater spaciousness and reactivity. It's possible to achieve longetivity and vibrance shifts so any quality bass can have its tone transformed to anything from a Hofner violin bass with 50 year old flats to an Aerodyne with gold plated strings, just by a careful choice of tone card. Our patented QR neck clamp allows between song tone card changes with no retuning and minimal interference to access beyond the 12th fret.

I played fingerstyle guitar (not brilliantly) before bass and as a result I have no problem using all five digits although the little finger is a weak so I tend not to go beyond my ring finger on bass.

Australian Pink Floyd Show Very professional but somehow felt a bit sterile.

Taking the title of this thread literally... I'm the one on the right.

I was at an event for four days recently. Brought av gear for a programme of talksn not knowing how bad the acoustics and background noise would be. Tried to locate a source for a clip on mike. Not many music shopsv in easy reach, rang BD first on the offchance they might have something, as I would have appreciateda chance to visit. Got a dismissive "we sell basses" and the phone virtually put down on me before I could ask if they know anywhere that might such a thing. A little courtesy would not have hurt. Ok, I'm not a big customer but I dropped well over a grand on my LAST visit.

Absolutely, and I didn't mean to suggest otherwise, but at 36dB per octave the cut at 27.5Hz will be minimal and at 30Hz, undetectable to the human ear. This graph off talkbass shows 0.5bD cut at 30Hz, which is well below what the ear can detect.

Not also that: Cut-off frequency: ~25Hz Slope: 36 dB/oct So below the 27.5Hz of a low A on a detuned 6 string.

I've realised one very useful place for an HPF ... after an octaver that's being 'fed' by a five-string tuned to low B. I really don't want 16Hz going into my amp.

My brain converted that to the Sunak Centre. 'nuff said...