Stub Mandrel

That's an example of creating a tension then resolving it, usually described as 'leading into' a chord. The circle of fifths theory tells us nothing about this.

If root-fifth is the next step from just hitting the root, root-fifth, flat-seventh, octave is the next note group that works over MOST chords including both major and minor. If I have to improvise for an unfamiliar song, it's what I start using until I have sussed the key/mode.

But if you are only doing it to learn a song, what benefit do you get from transposing the notation for an instrument like a bass that is essentially 'key blind'? (Unless the piece requires open strings in which case detune and play transposed anyway).

But that only stops notifications it doesn't affect 'content I posted in' (normally).

I have a 1980s Hohner B2. Early on it was converted to left hand drive and back again. Holes filled. Then resprayed. Overpainted, stickered, decorated. Then vinyl wrapped. I stripped it. Filled it. Sanded it. Primed it. For weeks. Colour sprayed it. Left for weeks to cure awaiting a vinyl logo and final lacquer. Logo wrong size. Couple of weeks later... fell off the hanger and got scratched chipped and dinged... Refilled, sanded, primed. Fell down again less damage. Filled... I am on the point of giving up on a good finish and either spraying it with textured stone paint or airbrushing it with German WW2 tank camouflage and weathering it...

First... the DoI has returned to my feed. Second, there are some threads you post in and regret ever having done so. The word association thread being my own bête noir. Rather like a cyclist who fixates on an obstacle and becomes powerless to avoid it and the resultant catastrophe, I'm afraid the advice to 'simply ignore the thread' ignores certain universal human failings. After all, curiosity killed the cat.

In that circumstance, I would just move everything up a fret. That's when having a mental picture of how to play various intervals can be more useful than 'knowing the fretboard'.

My hpf is 24dB/octave -3dB at 30Hz. I hear what people say about the value of getting the low harmonics, but I use a cab with a -3dB point at 35Hz and di into a PA with subs that go down to 32. I sometimes play 5 string or drop D so having a setup that can handle it, why not use it? To me the value of an hpf is losing handling noise and rumble not gaining headroom I don't need by losing the fundamental.

Played Superstition the other week and the keyboard generously let me do all the funkhy bits!

I understand that most sound engineers would use the Soundcraft 100Hz HPF on all channels except bass, kick drum and maybe keyboard. I was told that by a professional sound engineer about two weeks ago because I asked him specifically when I should use it.

New bass day.

But was there Dundee cake?

My design... 24dB / octave with the -3dB point at 30Hz. Chosen to barely affect the low B, while almost completely removing subsonic rumbles.

Fairport were pretty much 50% Dylan tribute when they started out.

Yellow works best for selling offers. Look at magazine offers, price reductions etc. Orange + monochrome was a whole theme for advertising 20 years ago (led by Orange telecom but many others followed). It's amazing how advertising does show so much 'clumping'.

I think directly in terms of moving around on the neck. E A D G C F Bb Eb Ab C# F# B . All worked out by mentally moving across the strings...

Seems I unfollowed it... but I have re-followed. Looks like it may still take a while to return though.

For some time I have noticed that certain threads disappear from my 'content you have posted in' list, rarely making a fleeting return after weeks or months, then disappearing again. Typically, it's when I see them in the 'recent activity' list that I realise there are pages of content that hasn't come up on my feed. Now it's happened to the Den of Iniquity, a disaster of immeasurable proportions! Is it possible to fix what seems to be a significant glitch, it's been happening going back at least a year.

Busy weekend coming up soon. My first two dep gigs on 26 August, then on Sunday:

(2) GAIN rotary control This is to set the gain of the input stage of the amplifier. The setting of this control is the single most important on the whole unit. There are three regions of operation of the control, which can be visually confirmed by the activity of the signal LED. (3) SIGNAL LED When the LED is green, the instrument signal is passing through the preamp without any compression. When the LED begins to flash red, more and more compression is occuring in the preamp as the GAIN control is advanced. The compressor also tracks changes made to the EQ; therefore, an increase in an EQ setting will require a decrease in the GAIN setting to maintain the same amount of compression. When the GAIN control is at maximum clockwise rotation, a musically useful overdrive distortion circuit is engaged. Reduce the VOLUME accordingly when using this setting

The Elf gain gives progressively greater compression as it is ramped. Very useful if you are pushing it close to it's limits. A quite aggressive overdrive comes in over the last smidge of adjustment, this cannot be accessed simply by digging in. This is very different from older TE amps where the recommendation is to set gain so the peak led flashes when you ay hard. But as with all TE solid state amps, use gain to get the tone/response you want and adjust master for volume.

I think he meant this Nag's Head:

About 40-50 quid all in!