Mr.T

Very nice... I particularly approve of the neck!

[quote name='BassBunny' post='546578' date='Jul 21 2009, 03:20 PM']Speak to Andy at Wizard. I did when fitting a Wizard Thumper to a P-Bass. Told him what sound i was looking for and he came up with the right Pot/Cap solution. then make sure you use good quality components, (CTS/Sprague).[/quote] For anyone interested.... Andy also suggested 250k pots with a 47 cap.

[quote name='Mr.T' post='549833' date='Jul 24 2009, 10:13 AM']I have recently built two basses using Mighty Mite necks. The fit is good and they seem to be accurately made.... No warps, bumps, etc. The frets needed a little dressing and polishing, although perfectly playable straight from the box..... But I like a low action.[/quote] I guess that I should clarify.... I am not comparing the MM necks with any of the others that have been mentioned. It is just my opinion that they seem to represent reasonable value for the money. I would like to think that the considerably more expensive Warmoths, etc. are of better quality.

[quote name='MB1' post='549111' date='Jul 23 2009, 04:20 PM']MB1. Trace Elliot 1 . Mr T 0 . [/quote] Surely you are not suggesting that lighter cabs suffer from mechanical coupling more than heavier cabs?

I have recently built two basses using Mighty Mite necks. The fit is good and they seem to be accurately made.... No warps, bumps, etc. The frets needed a little dressing and polishing, although perfectly playable straight from the box..... But I like a low action.

[quote name='mrcrow' post='548134' date='Jul 22 2009, 08:29 PM']also a concrete block may do the necessary[/quote] ...... And just after I have spent all that money on lightweight cabs!

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='547770' date='Jul 22 2009, 04:16 PM']What a great idea, sounds plausible, not sure how you could fix them without nails/screws into your cab base, i reckon glues would not hold them but it should keep the cab from bouncing about. They charge a lot of money to audiophiles for acoustic dampening feet to put under your amp, cd player, speakers. They are said to improve the acoustic resopnse 'significantly'. I use an old mouse mat and cut coin-size circles out of it. It solved the problem with my friends expensive cd jumping whenever the kids charged into the living room. Very happy with the sound of my hi fi but I've never tried the squash balls on my bass cab yet. I'm going to hunt for a couple of old balls tonight to try out at the wedding gig this weekend.[/quote] Hey Al, It's worth a try! Let us know how it works.... I haven't got a gig this weekend.

At our last gig, I really struggled with my sound.... The pub had recently fitted a nice looking floating wooden floor! I could hardly hear a note I played all night, with any amount of EQ'ing, which is not usually the case. Anyway... Someone mentioned that squash balls, cut in half, work well as cabinet feet to help reduce mechanical coupling (which I am assuming was the problem). Any thoughts or suggestions?

[quote name='mrcrow' post='546162' date='Jul 21 2009, 11:03 AM']fender jazz use 250k but some people use the 500k for better highs i use my bass on full vol and like nickel string sound so 250 doesnt rob me of anything i dont want anyway so a good quality 250 with 0.047 cap is the norm for the jazz and P etc passive pups i dont use tone control on the bass..passive..so a cap is a moot point hope this is of some help geof[/quote] Thanks for the reply. So... A 250 pot will cut some highs. The cap only comes into play when the tone is rolled off.... (which I don't do either).

I know the whole pot thing has probably been done to death, but hey..... The next stage of my custom Jazz (re)build is the electrics, I think the current plate is loaded with 'no name' 500k pots. I have fitted a pair of Wizard 84's and want to fit the best pots and cap that I can, to get the full potential out of the p/ups. Should I swap over to 250k pots? .... and what cap?

+1 to putting a 1x15 under your combo.... maybe the 1153 cab? I sold my Trace gear to go lightweight and have been struggling with my sound ever since!

[quote name='mike257' post='536504' date='Jul 9 2009, 03:02 PM']Crikey! After spending ages contemplating going lightweight, I've just took the plunge and bought myself a Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 off the dreaded 'bay! I'm going to A/B it with my Ampeg and decide which one's the keeper, so expect to see one of them in the For Sale threads next week. Ooops.[/quote] I'd be interested in your thoughts, once you have done your A/B.

[quote name='1976fenderhead' post='536251' date='Jul 9 2009, 10:27 AM']Hmmm thanks. I am cutting mids and highs a lot and boosting bass as I find the bass's preamp sounds too strident... Will add mids tonight to see if it makes a difference.[/quote] Hi, Cutting the highs is fine, if that's the sound you are chasing. Strings are also important. I use a Status fretless. When I bought it, it was fitted with flats... and I couldn't get the sound I wanted with any amount of EQ'ing. (If the bass doesn't put it out, the amp cant amplify it!). Switched to Rotosound Rounds 40-100's, and there was the sound.... add a bit of 550hz. and it now sings. Good luck.

To get 'mwah' out of a fretless, you need 'mids'. So... +1 to the light guage roundwounds. Also... Try boosting the mids on your amp, at around 550hz. This is in addition to all the set-up suggestions! Although fretboard material and the general quality of the bass will have some affect, you want/need lots of mid frequencies to get 'that' fretless sound.

Maybe the one I used had a fault? I really wanted to like it, as I thought it looked very well made and was extremely small and light.

[quote name='MuseMatt' post='533614' date='Jul 6 2009, 11:01 AM']I think the volume control is better though; Trace Amps become loud really quickly (hence the name 'Trace Watts'), but I think it sometimes lacks subtlety. No such problem with the Nemesis.[/quote] Hi, So I am assuming that you have noticed the same thing? It just felt odd, because my Trace would have run out of steam by the 12 o'clock setting. Does the Nemesis just 'keep going' past 12? (I didn't get much of an opportunity to try this out).

[quote name='bassmeg' post='532963' date='Jul 5 2009, 01:23 PM']Has anyone else had problems with their amp cutting out when the signal line in and gain have been clipping? May just be mine but problem solved by keeping an eye on input levels.[/quote] I gigged my Nemesis RS700 for the first time at the weekend. I set the input gain so the red light flickered only when playing hard.... (10 o'clock setting with my Status). No cutting out, and the cooling fan only running occassionally. I did find that the 'master' control needed cranking up in comparison to other amps I have used.... (12 o'clock compared with 9 on my Trace and MarkBass amps).

I tried a Shuttle 6.0 and although it had plenty of clarity, I couldn't get any bottom end out of it. Maybe it was faulty? ... It was a shame because I really wanted to like it!

[quote name='Fraktal' post='533108' date='Jul 5 2009, 04:12 PM']VPF at 3 o'clock is way too much IME.[/quote] +1. Turn off the VPF.... set at 3 o'clock it will be sucking all your mids!