Spoombung

I've owned 2 short scales now so I've got a good idea of the differences between short and long scale. Short scale: [b]Advantages[/b]: lower string tension, easier for smaller hands [b]Disadvantages[/b]: Bassier sound with less 'twang' less 'snap' and definition, softer attack, occasional rattling. 32" is a compromise between the two scales (I'm not familiar with).

[quote name='Mikey R' post='861281' date='Jun 8 2010, 05:50 PM']So, can I add option 6: available [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnut-Shellac-Sanding-Sealer-19766.htm"]here[/url]. Its shellac, so you can build up the coats and not worry too much about sanding through, as the next coat burns in with the previous, and its designed as a sealer. Ive not used it, but Im planning on giving it a try on the next bass, to seal in the stain before I add the top coat.[/quote] Thanks for the your, Mikey. I'm not sure if I could paint on top of shellac with acrylic, though. I'm noticing there are some vast differences of opinion going on here and disagreements about what will work. I'm surprised there is no standard way of priming the wood, painting on it, then laquering. I've Googled regarding painting on guitars and there is very little information at all. Whether that's to do with people being secretive about their techniques or using a different methods I can only guess.

Well I'm really confused! So far these are the suggestions: 1. PVA 2. Aresol sealant 3. MDF primer 4. Rustin's Gloss Varnish 5. Epoxy Which one do I pick??? HELP! Remember the idea is to paint over the flawed area with acrylic paint and have the majority of the body transparent, showing the wood. Help me make a decision!

[quote name='Brave Sir Robin' post='859903' date='Jun 7 2010, 02:23 PM']Phoarrr...That's down right filthy![/quote] I second that Phwoar (with only a slight spelling difference)

Now... as you can see, stripping the bass has revealed a nasty looking flaw in the wood that has been filled with sawdust and glue (I'm assuming it's probably basswood as it has hints of yellowy green streaks in patches). I now have two thoughts: 1. Cover up the flaw with a veneer and simply go through the sealant. primer/lacquer process 2. Paint with acrylics (an artwork/design that covers the flaw and extends on to the front but leaves some wood bare (I think the top horn looks quite pretty) Hence the numerous questions about sealants and primers...!

Another shot of my masterful rasp-work:

I might as well show you how far I've got with it. The original bass came in black with hideous, afflictive, bitter, black, bleak, cheerless, comfortless, deplorable, depressant, depressive, discomforting, discouraging, disheartening, dismal, dismaying, dispiriting, distressful, distressing, dolorific, dolorogenic, dolorous, down, dreary, funereal, grievous, joyless, lamentable, melancholic, melancholy, mournful, moving, oppressive, painful, pathetic, piteous, pitiable, poignant, regrettable, rueful, sad, saddening, sharp, somber, sore, sorrowful, touching, triste, uncomfortable, woebegone, woeful, wretched gothic stickers: This is the control cavity. I'm not looking forward to putting it all back together. Anyway, after some radical reshaping of the horns (I took tons of wood away) it looks like this:

[quote name='soopercrip' post='859708' date='Jun 7 2010, 11:54 AM']It comes with two standed aerosol spray tops one coarse one fine. Used it on walnut and cherry with good results on subsequent top coats of clear laquer frome tonetech. If in doubt speak to or email Barry there Although this [url="http://www.wickes.co.uk/Quick-Drying-MDF-Primer/invt/214271?source=123_4"]http://www.wickes.co.uk/Quick-Drying-MDF-P...71?source=123_4[/url] is an MDF primer it works fine for wood as MDF is a more difficult material to paint so this is more adhesive and isn't spray if you would prefer to brush it on A similar spray would be OK too Andy[/quote] Thanks, Andy. The MDF primer interests me. Do you know whether it is transparent or white? The website doesn't tell.

[quote name='RichardH' post='860165' date='Jun 7 2010, 06:30 PM']I used [url="http://www.areyoulocal.com/bass_preciazz2.asp"]epoxy to seal my refin of a P body[/url] - worked really well and makes the grain really "pop" - however, you need to be very careful that every square mm is covered, or the top coat that goes on will get "sucked" into the grain, and you end up with what they "fish eyes" (IIRC), whihc will never take the top coat.[/quote] That is helpful, thanks, Richard.

[quote name='skelf' post='859864' date='Jun 7 2010, 01:59 PM']Worth making sure that all the products you want to use are compatible with each other. Putting down a base coat that does not like the top coat leads to adhesion problems etc. There are plenty of brush on lacquers available you could also seal the wood with epoxy this seals the wood and fills any pores. Alan[/quote] Yes, Alan, I remember from my art school days a[i]crylic primer with oil on top=okay, oil primer with acrylic on top = no way![/i] Got some questions for you: I've never seen the fabled 'epoxy' (that Americans talk about all the time) for sale anywhere in the UK....? 1. Where do you get it? 2, Would PVA work as a primer/sealant, I wonder - especially if I'm going to paint on the bass? 3. What 'brush on lacquer' would you recommend?

Anyone used Liberon Finishing Oil? I've seen recommendations for it on Talkbass

[quote name='wesfinn' post='859661' date='Jun 7 2010, 11:09 AM']Thats the stuff but you can buy it as an aerosol if you click the aerosols and spray paints section. its easy to apply[/quote] Just to make sure is it this? [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/Lacquers-and-Paint/Aerosol-Lacquer-and-Paint/167-Clear-Sanding-Sealer/Detailed-product-flyer.html"]http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/L...duct-flyer.html[/url] Are you sure it doesn't require the 'spray handle attachment'? [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/Finishing-Supplies/187-Aerosol-Spray-Master/Detailed-product-flyer.html"]http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/F...duct-flyer.html[/url] Is it practical to go straight to this one and avoid the sealant? [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/Lacquers-and-Paint/Aerosol-Lacquer-and-Paint/159-Nitro-Cellulose-Clear-Lacquer/Detailed-product-flyer.html"]http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/L...duct-flyer.html[/url]

[quote name='wesfinn' post='859588' date='Jun 7 2010, 09:52 AM']tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk do cans of nitro sanding sealer which is great the also do grain filler which is essential for ash otherwise the grain/pores will soak up all the finish![/quote] Do you mean this stuff? [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/Lacquers-and-Paint/Spray-Paints-and-Lacquers/Lacquers-and-Thinners/274-Clear-Cellulose-Sanding-Sealer/Detailed-product-flyer.html"]http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/L...duct-flyer.html[/url] I think it needs spraying on. Is there anything I can paint on then sand down (I think the wood is basswood).

[quote name='steve-soar' post='859156' date='Jun 6 2010, 07:02 PM']Is it going to be a solid colour, or a natural finish?[/quote] Well, I'd like two options; one for a natural finish. and the other for some artwork/painting

I've just stripped a bass down to the bare wood and I gather the next thing is is seal it - so I'm asking what is the product most of you use?

I'm watching this with great interest as I've just stripped a cheap bass only to discover some wood flaws that might need covering up...

Joe Zawinul = Warm Pad.

That's my favourite model of all the basses he makes. Looks fab.

Well they pretty much all sounded the same to me except the flats (which always sound rubbish IMO). Some are slightly brighter but to talk of [i]'mid-scooped'[/i] seems ridiculous. I wish I could get interested in strings. I've had the same ones on my bass for 15 years.

That is such a big improvement. I absolutely [i]detest[/i] black basses!

[quote name='Clarky' post='843014' date='May 20 2010, 12:22 PM']What I simply cannot get is the 'flicking' of one finger to play fast lines on a single string - my nail can catch on the string on the upstroke and the tone is different on the up and down strokes. How does he do it???[/quote] Again, I think the key is the anchoring. Also he's plucking were the strings are quite loose - that combined with the bass-heavy thumping tone would mean the technique and its flaws are not as exposed as with a modern, bright sound. As it is, his technique is pretty flawless anyway - very dynamic and articulate. You see a lot double bassists using just one finger but it's not commonly applied to electric bass.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='842749' date='May 20 2010, 01:55 AM']I just gave one finger a try, seems relatively simple as long as you are fast and accurate. Not able to dampen so great with my thumb, I have shakey hands.[/quote] He braces his hand on the chrome pickup cover - that's probably the key to his style - the technique is very difficult unless the hand is held in a fixed position with only vertical movement.

Funnily enough, the 'standard' two finger technique has quite a few flaws in itself - ie, crossing strings, upstrokes and limited dampening... and is far from ideal.

[quote name='Clarky' post='842612' date='May 19 2010, 10:23 PM']Is there any footage of Jamerson playing, showinghis amazing technique? I did a YouTube search once and only found photo stills set to music.[/quote] This is the best example: Shows his dampening technique, hand position and plucking (which I think includes 2-way plucking on the one finger)

Example