TwoTimesBass

Borrowing an idea often seen on the Builds thread (although it would mean re-doing some of the epoxy), could you get some dust by sanding the underside of the fingerboard overhang and mix it with the epoxy to get the same colour?

Agree with all the above advice, and unless you have particularly high or low voltage (which I'd expect to manifest itself in other things in your house), or a fault on that ring main which can be tested by both suggestions above, I reckon it's more likely an amp issue. For peace of mind a plugin socket tester like a Martindale or similar will rule out faulty wiring on your outlets for about £15. Crude as it sounds, give it a good old thump on the top or shake when it misbehaves, it could be that there is something loose inside which resolved itself by way of the journey to the tech, and has since come back again.

Thanks mhoss, that makes sense, gives you some great options for the matching pedal! Those mini XLR's are pretty good, i've used them on a couple of (non-guitar/bass) projects in the past and they stand up well. Lemo also make some great, if a bit pricey, mini multipin connectors.

Loving this build and the complexity of the electrics! How does a stereo output on bass work, across the pickup or between pickups? Are you using a 5-pin XLR for the balanced stereo output to get enough connections? Great work!

You're trying all the right things, and you're correct that it points to the active hub. It sounds like it's more complex than a simple audio ground loop, more likely a ground loop somewhere in the USB system that is manifesting itself on the audio. Is the soundcard plugged into the Pluggable box too? If so can you try it directly into the other USB/Thunderbadger socket on the Mac? Or vice versa if it's not? Rather than a DI box i'd be looking at an isolation transformer something like this: https://www.gak.co.uk/en/art-dti/781?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURceWCxxo3LumXwArloolWZv0RVUgjLkKEVkxlfPWzSyFyLEFNCOa7BoCzzcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds which allows you to go in and out via phono. No guarantees though, I'd want to make sure you can return it if it doesn't solve your problem. One other thing, are there any Energy Saving features active on the Mac? Sometimes odd things can happen if the Mac is putting things to sleep in the background after a few hours.

I've got an H5 which isn't a lot more money (but is an older model) which has the interchangeable mics with an added physical gain control. Spec's reckon it's good for 140dB SPL and i've certainly not had a problem recording loud gigs.

Many places, my go-to for Neutrik connectors and quality cables is Van Damme https://www.vdctrading.com/

And yet not an uncommon one. I'd had this issue lots of times on different Mac laptops, you're correct in diagnosing an earth issue. It's basically a sort of ground loop i think that builds in intensity if you like (like mic feedback) which is probably why reselecting the amp input (or disconnecting the power cable on the Mac?) fixes the issue for a while. I'd give everything a good old clean for a start, particularly the Mac power cable and charging socket. Likewise earth pins in the plugs and audio connections. Beyond that try removing bits of kit apart from the Mac/Soundcard/Amp and see if it makes a difference. Any metal touching the case? There are a couple of audio isolation transformers around which I've used successfully in the past, Radial Engineering make a number of options. Good luck!

This is a great point. I was initially put off the bass I now own as it was described as a 7/8ths, and was worried as it wasn't a 'typical' 3/4. In reality it is a big bass in terms of depth and front length, but only by an inch here and there compared to a known quantity bass like a B&H or Kay. Scale length is a totally reasonable 41.5" and it has a HUGE acoustic sound that suits where and what I play. So glad I eventually went to try it out!

Hi jeanluc, Welcome to the forum, enjoy getting back into playing the bass again! Plenty to tempt you in the classified section I'm sure

Yeah, this might work but you'd be close to the limits in terms of power handling, driving the amps and the crossover pretty hot/hard. Plus there's no way of adjusting the frequency of the crossover point or indeed the level between the speakers. Probably not worth it at this point...

This is a typical setup for PA, with the addition that the crossover splits the signal into (at least) two separate feeds which would then go to different amplifiers for the tops and subs. You're correct in thinking most crossovers like the Behringer are line level rather than speaker level and you'd do damage plugging the crossover into the speaker outputs on your mixer/amp. Couple of options: There's often a FX send/return loop across the mix output on combi mixer amps where you can insert EQ/comps etc. You could put a crossover at this point and send the HF signal back into the amp to run main speakers. You'd then need to get a second amp to run the subs from the LF output of the crossover. You could run the subs from an Aux on the desk and EQ out the low end from the main PA, though you still need a second amp. The only way to achieve a mains/subs split with only one amplifier is to put a passive crossover circuit into the main speakers with an output to run the subs. AFAIK there isn't a version in a box where you can just plug in cables? I'd be surprised if the mixer/amp is capable of powering 2x15" tops plus 2 x Subs also...

The original but played at 33rpm...

I've just got my hands on a MK Studio passive (which I'm loving!) and scale length is also 41"