chris_b

So have I. Currently they are set up at home and I'm putting my P bass and TH500 through them. Great sound at low volume.

I heard Linus27 playing an Ashdown (not sure of the model) through my Two10 and I was surprised how good it sounded.

I used Aguilar Th500 and AG700 amps with my Two10's and they sounded very, very good.

No. When I bought my first 5 I tried switching back and forth, but it was more confusing that it was worth so I put the 4 in the case (it's still there) and focussed on getting the 5 right. My 5 string basses can do it all. They are easier to play, sound better and are more flexible than my 4, so after getting up to speed I realised there was no point in getting the 4 out again. So I haven't. YMMV

There's so much more. . . . Ry Cooder Good Thing Betty Davis Anti Love Song As has been said, if the timing is only a little bit off the groove evaporates.

If your amp has one output socket just make sure your cab has 2. Most cabs have 2 speakons these days. Then you don't need to worry about splitter cables or when they are running in series or parallel. Just buy a pukka branded cable from a proper shop and it will work. If you start with a 210 I'd audition another 210 as well as a 115. Depending on what you buy, the 10's could be louder and go lower than the 15. I ran a 115 and 210 and then replaced it with a 112 and 210. The second rig had a better, wider tone, was every bit as loud and was smaller and lighter. Only valve amps need to be connected to a cab, and these days some of them don't. SS and D class don't need a cab and can be used with headphones only.

A leather scratch plate would take a lot of maintenance to prevent it from staining and drying out and cracking, but I think they look cool. Wal made their JG basses of the mid 70's with leather scratch plates. http://walbasshistory.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_28.html

This music works because of syncopation. Get 3 good rhythms going and interlocking and there you have it. Listen to Betty Wright's Clean Up Woman and Bobby Patterson's How Do You Spell Love. They get it exactly right. I don't know why, but while I really should like the Dap KIngs, I never quite get there.

In many decades of playing bass I have never adjusted a truss rod. I don't get into the "fiddling" thing with my gear. I have the bass set up when I buy it and never touch it after that. If the bass was set up at the factory then I wouldn't need to do that, or even think about micro managing the thing. I'd just play it. I have, very occasionally, altered the bridge saddles and that is all the adjustment I've ever needed to do. It's telling that Modulus and Status say their basses don't need truss rods. IMO it's disappointing that these manufacturers had to add truss rods when they weren't needed just to make Joe Public happy!!!

Interesting idea, replacing the truss rod with a carbon block, for a rock solid neck that never needs adjusting. Sounds like the next bass "thing".

My point is that to talk about Sadowsky basses as if they are just Fenders with some work done on them is to miss the point. My Lull Precision is really Mike Lull making the Fender that Fender should/could be making. He's making the equivalent of a vintage Fender, just better made. Sadowsky aren't making a Fender at all. They are totally his take on a bass. . . . except, of course, for the shape. Small differences I know and if you can't hear those differences then they won't be important.

Sadowsky basses are are Roger Sadowsky's own basses that just happen to be Fender shaped. He kept the shape due to the constraints of the New York studio world, ie demanding that the bass players only use Fender basses. They are not "super" Fenders, they are much more than that.

I have never seen a bass where the bridge is being pulled from the body. The 4 or 5 screws used is more than enough to anchor the bridge. Believe me that is not an issue.

Basses are tuned in 4ths. Which also why a 6 string bass has a top C instead of a B. I know a 4 string player who always tunes low C F Bb Eb. There are so many different tunings being regularly used these days that you can use which ever one is comfortable for you.

A few years ago Lakland were asked the same thing about their US basses. They said that they get many orders a month for 5 string basses but about 1 request every other month for a 6 string. It's just not a commercial proposition.

I'd play Higher Ground like Nate Watts did on the original. It would easily fit with the Chilli Peppers version.

I have TI flats on my passive P bass and D'addario NYXL rounds on my active Jazz. This has been my choice for a few years now. About 3 years ago I replaced my GHS Precision flats (which I thought were very good) with TI's. There was a chance to buy the TI's at a lower price so, given the reputation, I thought I'd give them a go. I like the sound and the feel. I also looked at Labella flats but decided I preferred the TI's. I spent nearly 20 years using DR Lo-Riders and Hi-Beams. I thought they had a great feel and sound, until I heard someone using the NYXL's. I bought a set to try them and IMO they work very well with my Jazz, so that's another long term move.

More like Lenny Da Vinci!!

These basses certainly are versatile. I've used my Sadowsky Metro on 99% of my gigs (that's every genre from the 50's to this year) since I got it, about 3 years ago. The sound is far from inoffensive, it's full, fat and punchy, with a top end that can take your head off and a low end that will break your speakers in a second if you let it. Basically a huge sound. It's actually got too much of everything in the preamp and it's down to the player to control it. I don't say everyone has to like this bass or its sound, but if anyone can make these basses sound inoffensive then they are not operating it properly.

Just had an email arrive regarding this P bass. They claim it was made by Overwater but it's got Ibanez tuners, a Wilkinson bridge and they say they've removed a kg's worth of plastic finish! Has Overwater ever used these components on a bass? I don't think so. Anyone know more about this than me? The seller has 100% feedback! What gives here? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254446216243?ul_noapp=true

You don't. Sell the other one. Too many people listen with their eyes, but we are better bass players if we listen to our ears. Ignore what the bass looks like, just know you sound good and get on with improving your playing. Become a better player and you'll find an even better bass in a year or two.

I hate it when someone says, "Let's start with xxx, to ease in." The first number has to hit the audience between the eyes and make them want to stay for the rest of the set.

Necks: Multi piece and carbon are for reinforcement: Both will reduce dead spots and aid stability. Neither is better than the other. 4 or 6 bolts: If the bass is well made the number of bolts doesn't matter. I've seen Ritter basses use upto 17 bolts and they aren't more stable than my 4 bolt Sadowsky. Aesthetic: Whatever turns you on. I'm a "Fender" shape fan. Electronics: Pre-amps are about tone. I change the battery on my active bass once a year. Acceptability: I'm not a pro player so I don't care what other people think. Body: I've not found through stringing makes a difference to the tone that I can hear. What I look for in a new bass is 18-19 mm at bridge, weight that is under 9lbs and it has to sound better than my current bass. If it doesn't have those 3 things I'm not interested. Everything else is negotiable. You've got to be comfortable with your choice, but, for me, none of your points would trump tone. I'd get the bass that sounds the best. The rest comes a distant second.

Nice one.