chris_b

What do so many on BC jump to negative conclusions when Blue posts? "I doubt" means he is expressing an opinion. He might be right or he might be wrong, but like everyone else here he should be able to express opinions without being attacked for it.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1463592923' post='3052698'] They wouldn't likely know a foxtrot or waltz if it whacked them in the kisser..!! [/quote] You can Quick Step to Chuck Berry songs, as we discovered on one ""square peg - round hole"" gig we did many years ago.

Bands have always been plagued by egos. I can deal with an over active ego if the guy can back it up. The good musicians I've known have always known they were good. Some had over active egos and some didn't, but anyone who stands in front of other people and says "look at me and what I'm doing" has to have a larger ego than most.

I keep a back up box of foam plugs in the accessory bag. Not where I wanted them to be when I knocked one of the filters out of the ear plugs in the middle of a number. Jeez we were loud! I now keep several foam plugs in the ACS pouch on top of the amp. Moral of the story: keep your backup gear where you can easily get to it in an emergency.

ACS ER15 custom moulded plugs for me.

IMO 10's would sound better with your 410 cab. The Backline 600 head is only 300 watts. A bit of marketing liberty taking if you ask me. If your 410 is 8 ohms then your amp, running at 8 ohms is putting out about 150 watts. If the cab is rated at 400 watts then you'll be safe putting your 150 watts into it. You could get a more powerful amp but you'll hear more volume by adding more speakers than by adding more watts, so adding a 210 will be fine. Another 410 might be overkill or just right, depending on how loud you really are. I'd go for the 210 option. And just in case you really are that loud. . . . get some good ear plugs.

If you're getting ear fatigue then you should be wearing ear plugs.

1970 started with me as a professional musician. 1979 ended with me married and living in Sydney. In between there were some changes in my hopes and dreams but in most respects it was a great decade.

I put Lakland flats on my P bass and the bass sounded much better than with the DR roundwounds I'd been using for years. The Laklands are rebadged GHS Precision Flatwounds. A year or so ago I was looking at La Bellas and other strings but while this set sounds good I'm keeping them. A couple of years ago I had an acoustic fretless bass with tapewound La Bellas on. They felt very nice to play. I don't see the point of putting flats on active basses or trying to get flats that sound "close" to rounds.

Sly released Thank You in 1969 and it was at #1 in the US charts by the beginning of 1970. I believe that was the first slap bass line on an electric bass. I don't believe Louis Johnson didn't hear it.

So Arsenio Hall's hit man got her!

The 70's was a great time. Everything was still possible.

[quote name='casapete' timestamp='1463270111' post='3050126'] ever noticed that an awful lot of pro players with road crew still favour heavy valve/ big cab rigs? [/quote] If I was touring I'd also get an SVT and 810 cab because if anything went wrong on the road I could easily hire the same rig and maintain my sound. I could fly to the other side of the world and hire the same rig. My heaviest piece of gear by far these days is my accessories case. I need to review my need for stands and plug boards.

As I said, get rid of the 115 altogether and replace it with a Super Compact or BB2. Keep the 1 cab but upgrade your sound while reducing our foot print..

I've not heard the One10, so the smallest single cab I'd be happy to gig with is a Barefaced 112 (which is what I did last night). Other than that I don't know of any 110 or 112 which would take on a 115. The BF 112 would be smaller, and almost certainly, louder than most 115's.

Mesa, Ampeg and Orange are building cabs to a price point. As far as volume and tone are concerned, there is no merit in heavy cabs, but it is cheaper to build big heavy cabs and more expensive to build light well braced cabs. These manufacturers all sell light weight cabs and there will be a tipping point where they will stop making heavy cabs completely.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1463229947' post='3049746'] But also is driving a higher wattage speaker with only a small amount of watts ok? [/quote] Not a problem at all.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1462887844' post='3046648'] How do you justify having more equipment than you actually need? [/quote] I don't. I only buy gear I can gig. Everything I own works for a living so I have no "vanity" purchases and nothing is bought on a "whim". Unfortunately there is a pretty expensive bass in the BC classifieds right now that I'd love to own. I keep logging on to look at it!! If I told my wife she's just say "get it", but I don't play at home and I don't have a band I can use it in. It's an absolutely pointless purchase. . . . but. . . . !

[quote name='louisthebass' timestamp='1463214219' post='3049527'] Probably a very predictable choice - this is one of his great lines: [/quote] JJ is a great player, though Tommy Cogbill played the original bass line on Memphis Soul Stew.

What's with the weight? My first cab was a 412 that was so heavy that 2 of us only just managed to pick it up. Lifting that thing should have been an Olympic sport. The stupidly excessive weight of Road Ready EV Mesa Boogie cabs was fine in my 40's but in my 50's finally ruptured a disc. That's permanent and life altering damage. If neo cabs hadn't come along when they did I'd have been retired for the last 15 years. The guys at Bergantino and Barefaced are now producing cabs that sound far better than any cab I used in the previous 40 years (and I had some of the best). . . and you can lift them without a hoist. Believe me it's a great time to be bass player, especially an old one!!

[quote name='nicsim' timestamp='1463139609' post='3048912'] So the question is: what do the learned members of basschat recommend [/quote] I know nothing about the basses you're looking at. I started on an MM SR 5 then moved on to a Lakland 55-94, but I've a couple of observations on 5 string basses in general. You'll be told that 5 string fret boards are very wide. They are wider than 4 string players might be used to but that just means you have to adjust your left hand placement and technique. You can also play across the board rather than up and down. You can't play big necks with small fingers. . . . is a myth. Bad habits will cause you more trouble than small hands. If you get a 35" scale bass don't stretch but move your hand to place your fingers over the right note. You might even have to adjust your strap, but big necks are very easy to play if you get your technique right. Muting isn't a problem but again is different, so focus on your right hand technique and move your thumb between pickup, B string and E string. You can also mute with your left hand. The lower the note the harder the amp and speakers have to work to get a good sound so don't skimp on your back line. Also don't think that bigger speakers are better for B strings. Some of the best low bass tones I've played have been on 10" speakers. The lower the note the less distinct it can become. Don't use too much bass in your tone. Low mids will bring the low notes out just fine. A 5 string bass will required adjustment. People who don't make the right adjustments will not feel comfortable and will quickly go back to their old bass. If you're serious about trying a 5 string bass I'd put your old bass away and only play the 5er until it becomes second nature. You can cover all 4 string parts on it with no problem. For many people, swapping back and forth never lets them settle on the new bass. I think you should switch. Good luck. IMO, IME

So there's different kinds of relicing? It's OK if it was done at the factory but not OK if done by the player? That's a new one on me!