chris_b

I'd play it and decide if it's for you before you go swapping stuff around. The resale price of a non original bass would not be as good as an original one.

Pictures please, Barrie.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1432805862' post='2785089'] Saying that I've played at rehearsals with my super compact raised onto an 8x10 and found it hadn't made a blind bit of difference, except having it at a lower volume. I still bumped the low EQ up a bit, but when it was on the floor I would turn it up more. [/quote] Err. . . . doesn't that count as a difference? Anyway, now you have 2 so everything that went before is erased.

I had an MM SR5 but I don't remember the neck. It's your bass, upgrade away.

I can't see 2 db making much difference. Work with them. They'll be safer for your ears.

I'd start with an outboard preamp. Find the sound you like first, before you've made any irreversible changes. Me? I'd just put all that money and effort into finding the right bass.

Search for Stax Records on YouTube and work your way through the list.

Tort and pink looks good to me. It's a good combo...... .... as long as I'm not the one playing it!

+1 I used to have 2 Berg AE210's, and as each cab was larger than half of an AE410, when put together they were awesome. Better tone and more volume than any 410 I've tried (I had the AE410 for awhile) and they could be used separately. I love modular rigs, but I hardly ever gigged 1 cab and in the end everything was sold in favour of the smaller package of my Berg CN212. If the OP doesn't know what he needs then I'd suggest starting with a good 212 and progress from there, or not. A 212 might just tick all the boxes. For me "half of a 300 watt" amp isn't that loud, so I use a 500 watt amp and a 212. You can play amps and cabs at low volume and they'll still sound good but they'll sound pretty bad when you try to turn them up too far, so IMO you always need something in reserve for a good tone at what ever volume you want/need to play at.

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1432737043' post='2784421'] I am intending to stand my Big Baby 2 on top of another Big Baby 2 to get it up to a decent height [/quote] That's the best stand. One that makes more of the same noise.

[quote name='JamesBass' timestamp='1432676266' post='2783945'] I think a nice 5er will open up some more stuff for me, especially in terms of chordal soloing stuff! [/quote] Really? Are you stringing E - C? If you're looking for B - G (which I assumed you were) then I'm not sure how chordal or soloing is "opened up". It'll be the same top end as an E - G strung bass. I play and recommend 5 string basses but they "open up" the lower and middle parts of the bass.

+1 I don't see the point of an active Precision. It's not supposed to be a versatile instrument. It's a P! My passive 5 string P bass does [i]that[/i] tone better than any other bass I've played. On the other hand, I would go active on a Jazz or other 2 pickup bass. IMO the dynamics and breadth of tone only gets better with a pre amp and better still with 5 strings.

Out of all the 5 string basses I've played, the 35" have felt the best. There are very good 34" 5 string basses but IME they have been at the more expensive end of the scale, I'll put that down to better materials, building techniques and QC. Examples, Wal and Sadowsky. I've not played ACG, Shuker or Ken Smith basses but they don't get stick for bad B strings on their 34" basses either. Lakland Skyline seem to get general praise and use 35" scale. Fender seem to be very patchy for B strings and use 34". IMO it seems to me that it's easier and more consistent to successfully build a mid priced, mass produced 5 string bass using 35" scale.

[quote name='lowhand_mike' timestamp='1432656707' post='2783665'] i am thinking of a new bass, 5 string is where i'm going. [b]Not that a i really need one as my band doesnt play anysongs yet that require the lower register [/b] [/quote] That shouldn't stop you.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1432645873' post='2783517'] Also, why do drummers insist in setting up dead central. When you have three others in the back line, sometimes it's a bit of a struggle getting two lots of gear on one side of the kit. "I'm not moving it now. It's taken me ages to set up". Queue the three others grabbing said piece of carpet and moving the whole kit over. [/quote] If I turn up late and there isn't enough space on my side for two of us I tell them to move up. I am always surprised if I have to do this, as they are all intelligent and grown up people, who should be able to count and estimate by now. Anyway, a lot of grumbling ensues, but I tell them if they were stupid enough not to remember how many people we have in the band and didn't leave enough room for all of us it's their problem.

[quote name='landwomble' timestamp='1432648879' post='2783559'] So next logical question - what's the actual difference between MIJ/MIM/MIA Fenders? Or Squiers for that matter? Other than hardware? [/quote] Not that logical. Each hardware will be more similar than different, depending on the materials used, but [i]every[/i] piece of wood is different, as the previous couple of posts mentioned. Mythological "tests" and popular hearsay are not good reasons on which to base an opinion. The people who make the more expensive custom basses will have a wood store, look at the factory visits on youtube, and that wood will be chosen with a great deal of care. A mass producer will order a pallet of wood and use it up, whether it is in ideal condition or not. For instance, Michael Tobias will buy the best he can find and that cost will be passed on. A mass producer will buy and sell to a price point and it's in his interest to make his product as cheaply as he can. Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't, eg when Ampeg started using board for their cabs instead of ply. Many people won't hear any difference. Lucky them. They can save a fortune.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1432576600' post='2782902'] ...and the drummer sticks his kit right in the middle. [/quote] Was it your turn for the tufted Wilton? All drummers I know bring their own carpet and leave it in the car if there is carpet at the gig. I would have been more surprised if he hadn't used it.

The OP seems to equate "fitting in" as a compromise, and that compromise is not a good thing. He also seems to think that keeping "his" sound against all opposition in the band is not a problem, when I think that will just get him sacked. I wouldn't give the OP any advice about what gear to use, I'd only say that he needs to go back to the drawing board and come up with a different approach which will make everyone happy. What is the point in making your band unhappy? If the OP wants to be inflexible then I think he'd be better off finding some like minded players and forming a different band.

I know guys playing instruments that sound pretty good, and I dislike the sound of when I play. The OP has discovered a preference. I wouldn't read any more into it than that.

I would prefer to learn from the massively talented players already way ahead of me on bass guitar.

An eternity you say? I'd take a water and insect proof self tuning grand piano.

I notice the bass player didn't let "small hands" get in the way of some great playing. Love the drummer. Reminds me of David Garibaldi.

I was sorry not be able to be there. NE is a very class act.

I'm currently playing the best bass I've owned, so I'm content.

I used my LM2 with the controls flat (or 12 o'clock, if that's flat) and the filters off. Through my Berg cabs it had a nice warm and full tone.