chris_b

After 20 years of using 15's, these days I'd recommend well made 12's every time. The gen 2 Barefaced Compact is the only exception, IMO.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1425296800' post='2705863'] ....I don't think that anyone can categorically state that a particular type of wood will produce a particular type of sound for every given example.... [/quote] Has anyone ever said that? Not me, and I've never heard anyone in the bass making business claim that. There might be people out there spinning a line, but they're not respected builders of basses. Pieces of maple will have a similarity of sound, as will alder, as will mahogany and Brazilian rosewood and there will be variations within that signature sound, but a piece of maple will never sound like Brazilian rosewood. Most good luthiers will be hand picking and buying the better pieces of wood so these tones will be more consistent and fit the tone profile better. That will allow them to predict with a degree of certainty the overall sound of the instrument. The finished bass will have its own voice, but to a good maker that won't come as a surprise. There is a wide variety in design choices. Some choose the wood for the tone, Mike Tobias is one, and some like Alembic try to make neutral sounding basses so their sound is generated by their pickups. Large volume manufacturers will just order wood in bulk, sight unseen and use every piece which is why their instruments can be so variable in weight, tone and sustain and can suffer from dead spots and lack luster tone. These basses are very likely to need to get their sound from the pickups because they're not going to get much of it from the wood. That's fine because high volume manufacturers are selling to players who aren't interested in the smaller details of tone. But the differences are certainly there whether the general public can hear them or not, as with the differences between plonk and fine wine, Datsuns and Aston Martins, Cafe Creme and Havana cigars.... the list is endless.

+1 for playing in more bands. Always my preference. Regarding this band: Would you stay if they did more gigs? Even with the songs that you're not fond of? If that is a yes, push the more gigs angle. Then mention you'd like to do better songs. Decide what to do after thinking about the result of the meeting, in a few days.

I still own the Fender P I bought in 1969. I wore the frets out on that bass. I've only gigged it once since the mid 90's, but I'll only sell it when I'm done playing. If I hadn't moved on to 5's I'd still be playing that bass on every gig. I wouldn't order a custom bass. I don't know what I like until I hear it. My main basses for a long time have been modern takes on Fender classics. I play a Lull (1 pickup) and a Lakland (2 pickup). I have never been asked to play anything that either of those basses couldn't handle. I only have 1 main bass. The next main bass will relegate the old one to backup status. Never say never, but that's the way it's worked for the last 25 years and last 4 basses.

+1 Wider the better for me. To the OP, you just need to play this bass. Play both of them until the string spacing doesn't matter.

Lozz, good story. Good tone is built on the smallest of changes.

Of course. Those guys say that first and foremost a bass in an acoustic instrument. If it sounds good acoustically then it'll sound better amplified. Alex Clabber posted a few weeks ago explaining why. I'd take the opinion of these guys against the opinion of any "week-end warrior" on Basschat any day. With little knowledge, it seems, comes great certainty. Prepare to get shouted down.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1425031095' post='2703081'] ....But a dedicated singer in most bands.... is a trouble-causing passenger with an ego the size of Jupiter. [/quote] Oh boy..... have I met some of those!!!

Which way are you putting the amp in the bag? Front first or back first?

The OP seemed to be asking if there was any chance that this bass could be a real 66 Fender. I think that is very unlikely. The pick guard doesn't fit, the general finish is too good and the price is so wrong at £290 that that alone should confirm that it's not a vintage bass. The pick guard shrinking would put pressure on the screws and leave a split or 2. Usually the tip of the lower horn breaks off if serious shrinkage has occurred. All I see is a pick guard that is the wrong shape. It might be a good bass but for that money I'd rather find one here that I could play first.

Just happened on this and I'm impressed with the bass playing, well the whole band actually. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdeqSnbL5rU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdeqSnbL5rU[/url] Anybody know of Rick?

Not saying anything. I'm just glad most of my toe curlers happened before mobile phones, camcorders and YouTube.

Put your eyeballs back in their sockets and your tongue back in your mouth. That is [i]not[/i] a vintage Fender.

TC quote: "You can connect up to three TC Electronic RS cabinets or any other two 8 Ohm cabinets of another brand to the amplifier. (minimum load: 4 Ohm)" I'm disappointed in TC, as that statement from p6 of the RH750 User Manual is a [b]lie[/b]. The appendix I linked to in my previous post is the "clarification" TC put out a couple of years ago after they were challenged by most of Talkbass on the discrepancy between the TC watts rating vs the real RMS watts being generated by the power unit. They also included "clarification" of the 3 of our cabs but only 2 of other companies cabs statement by giving the minimum ohms of each of their amps. Read the link. 2.66R means 2.67 (rounded up) ohms. I used to run 3 8 Ohm Bergantino cabs at high volume and the amp was fine. As I say TC are deliberately posting incorrect information, I guess in an attempt to sell more of their cabs. Shame on them.

Again........ the RH750 can run at 2.67 ohms. There is no magic. That's how it powers 3 8 ohm cabs. [url="http://cdn-downloads.tcelectronic.com/media/914735/tc_electronic_bass_amp_power_rating___active_power_management.pdf"]http://cdn-downloads..._management.pdf[/url] Go to page 7 the Min. Load is 2.66R

There is a big CE on the back of my TH500, so there is no story here.

I don't know MB 212 cabs but the 2 112 and 2 210 rigs I've heard, both with 500w amps, have sounded pretty good.

I'm playing with a drummer who uses a 70's Ludwig Vistalite kit. He also has the version that lights up! He says it cuts through better. It might do but it still sounds crap.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1424769766' post='2700115'] I play with a guy who uses one of the kick drums! He has the rest of the kit, but says it's just too big to bother with. It's had a psychedelic paint job and always draws comment- it also gets accused of sounding like a cardboard box, too! He's a great player though. [/quote] Aaahh, you must be referring to Ed. I like the sound of his bass drum. He was always promising to bring the rest of the kit but never did! +1 as a great player.

This reminds me of those "new concept" chairs we got in the 60's. Look fantastic but you can't sit in them for more than 2 mins. I wonder where they are now.

Of course it's 100% down to the mix. Pino has no say in what anyone heard on the gig or when watching the TV program. As I would imagine Pete Townsend has the final say in all thing Who, I assume this is what he wants the band to sound like.

I have a very understanding wife. She has always supported my playing but 25 years ago, with 2 young kids, a demanding day job and a house that was in need of some serious DIY to make it habitable for a young family, she asked me to quit the band. I was the only married guy, the only one with a family and the band was becoming very successful. We were gigging every weekend and towards the end did 10 days straight. It was a pro band pretending to be semi pro and I knew she was right. So after fighting the decision for a couple of months I quit. It was the worst thing I could have done for my playing career, which never really recovered, but it was the best thing to do for her. If I'd had any sense I'd have made that decision long before she asked me but I'm selfish and it was a great band.

There are no downsides, as long as you connect the cab correctly before you switch on, ensure the ohms of your cab match the selector on the back and let the valves warm up at the beginning before you play and cool down at the end before you move the amp. All standard valve amp stuff. Back in the day, clutching a cheque from the management company, I had the run of the Marshall shop in Ealing Broadway. I walked away with the Super 100 Lead guitar amp. IMO it sounded punchier through my Marshall 412 cab. Cabs back then weren't the best so the amp had to provide all the definition for them.

The best sounding Markbass 210 I've heard is the Standard 102HF. It's larger but produces a bigger (and IMO better) tone as a result. And 2 of them can fill any room.