chris_b

Make sure your lead is long enough!

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1423483395' post='2685222'] At 8 ohms I'd get the TH500. [/quote] +1 TH500. No point in buying a lower powered amp for this cab when it might not be loud enough for the next cab. There's a Puma 900 in the classifieds.

It's never too soon to get into a band and start gigging. IMO that's the point of playing a musical instrument. Just find the right band and off you go.

People don't normally get this much concentrated playing experience, so just make sure you start the next gig where you left off the night before.

I'd leave this cab the way it is and rate it at half the watts for bass.

There is a Barefaced Big Twin 2 in the Classifieds. All the cab a rock bass player needs to dominate the world.

I'd rather play Wembley than the Dog and Duck, every time. Unfortunately the latter seems to be my level these days. Ho hum.

Be positive and happy. This is a great time for the band to pull together and become a better unit. +1 for all the eat and drink sensibly and personal hygiene and clean clothes advice. Keep your fingers crossed that someone doesn't start exhibiting strange personal behavior that wasn't evident before. Take a camera.

I prefer the sound of a Super Compact and 2 SC cabs sound amazing.

I currently play through a Bergantino CN212 which is the lightest, loudest and best sounding cab I've owned. Then again, a Barefaced 212 or 2 112 rig would definitely be a rock band killer.

What problem are you trying to resolve here? As long as the replacement speakers are the same ohms as the ones you are removing, and you wire it up correctly, you shouldn't hurt the amp, but I don't understand why you want to run the risk of messing up the sound of a cab you "love". The idea that you can replace half of a 410 which you "love" with 2 speakers from another 410 that you also "love" and you'll get anything close to the sound of either of the boxes is not very logical. I'm on the side of the fence that says, if you're not unhappy with the sound of your Ampeg, why spend money to mess it up.

But the bass playing world isn't generally bothered. In the real world bass players are plying their craft as musicians, playing live. Those guys don't usually delve into anything like the detail we see here on BC.

For: You can work more, maybe get paid more. Against: You're working for them, so they don't appreciate you screwing up or being picky. They will put you into places that you wouldn't normally choose to play.

I was in a folk rock band in the 70's and the guitarists had sanded the varnish off the front of their acoustics to increase the volume and they said "release the tone".

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1423228365' post='2682479'] ....but for electric, the debates have mostly said it's minimal.... [/quote] Not so. Anyone who says different is usually shouted down to the point that any kind of sensible debate is cut off. Anyone with a different view has to be pretty thick skinned to get into this and many other debated here. So we tend not to hear the other side of the story. I will trust a manufacturer when they are the likes of Mike Tobias and Roger Sadowsky. These guys, and others like them, are not trying to sell basses by BS but by putting into practice what they know. And they know a lot more than most of the members on Basschat.

it will make no difference to your sound or reliability if you daisy chain or not, unless your cables are made of bell wire or each is excessively long. My OBBM cables are [s]1/2 [/s]meter. Google speaker wire gauges. Correction: My cables are 1 meter in length.

Looking at the cabs you own it's no surprise that you didn't like the 18's and 15's. I know people who get a great sound out of Ampeg 15's, but I prefer tight, warm and punchy for my sound.

[quote name='machinehead' timestamp='1423089085' post='2680738'] ....For that money I'd go for a post 2008 American Standard Precision. They come up here often enough and often as good as new condition. Lots of bass for your money.... [/quote] +1 Excellent advice here. I'd go for a used AM Std, in good condition, from the classifieds. I'd also hold back £50 to invest in a good set of flatwound strings.

Why all this effort to define a professional musician? The term professional in the context of being a musician relates to earning a living not to ability. Professional musicians get paid to do what they do, exclusively. Semi pro musicians have a day job and play as a hobby for money. Very good players are better than good players and fantastic players are better than that. They may or may not be professional musicians. One of the best guitarists I've played with spent his life working in a factory.

The Sadowsky pre amp is supposed to be a very good one, but all this is going to change the structure of your sound. I'd experiment first with some new strings. . . Dunlop Super Brights?

I thought that just as I was typing it.

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1423072938' post='2680375'] .... After a lively email conversation with Alex at Barefaced I have ordered a Big Baby 2.... [/quote] Alex knows his stuff and importantly understands how to match you as a player to the right cab. I did it the wrong way around. I bought a BB2 from the classifieds, then spoke to Alex. He said he thought I should be using a Super Compact. After hearing Merton's 2 SC's, I find that Alex is exactly right.

I played with an "elite" guitarist many years ago and what I got from that experience was invaluable. We never discussed the hardware. You were expected to have a certain level of equipment but gear wasn't even in the top 10 of interests. I learnt to focus, strive and shine, be original and reliable. I learnt that thinking about bass lines was more important than playing them. You learn to quietly and quickly raise your game or you know the phone calls will evaporate. If you have the ability and right mind set a good pro player can push you to be a far better player than you'll ever be on your own, and none of it ever relates to frigging speaker sizes, etc.

Makes you smile, doesn't it.

If you're going to increase the size of the cavity, work towards the front of the bass, towards the neck, then you can reinstate the original scratch plate without any of this work being visible. I'd get some stacked pots.