JBoman

I was not the only one with a self made instrument. There was also this monstrosity. I did not manage to catch up with the owner, so I'm not sure what those extra 2 strings are tuned to, we we're suspecting a low B and E. Crazy. (left handed)

This bass went into places 😎 https://helsinkifestival.fi/en/event/basso-2/ Picture from soundcheck: Performance:

Sure did!

I guess everyone is keen on hearing it as well, eh? I been having this thing lately where I keep all my basses in different tunings with different string gauges. This one ended up in C standard with 115-55 strings. It sounds like it was made for low tunings, YAYY METAL!! \m/

More speculations in CAD.... hmmmm... hmmm...

The nut seems like a logical place to start a build? Some experimentation: I still had a piece of brass from some previous attempts in making a brass nut. This time I started by making a template in CAD. Picked up some brand new drillbits that are close to the regular 105-45 strings. I glued the template on the brass, drilled through and then hacked off the extra material on a belt sander + files. This way I need to use the actual nut files only in the final touches. I actually made 2 prototypes with this method. I'm not yet sure if I'm going to use a brass nut in this one, but at least I know I can make these quite easy and fast.

I experimented on the shape a bit more by re-using my drawings from the previous project. I wanted to make the bass shorter, therefore 2+2 tuners. I reused the headstock shape but making it shorter. Body shape is also a bit re-used, but made less tall and added some "hooks" or what you could call those in the horns, something that would kind of mimic the headstock shape. I really like these shapes, how it reflects my 2 favorite designs, the P-Bass and the Music Man.

No no perfectly good point! Of course the spoke wheel cutout would be done before radius cut. But other option would of course be to attach the fretboard to some scrap wood for the radius cut process. Using masking tape and super glue trick Both are doable. But I think having the fretboard glued on the neck and having the whole piece over-sized would minimize/eliminate tear out.

I didn't actually yet watch the video, just saw the part with that table router and the radiused blocks and realised immediadetly that this is a good idea. But having a bigger block of wood is better. It's more stable and less prone to flexing when you move it around. And when you work piece is more heavy it makes the routing more stable. Less mass is harder to hold in place when doing anything with a router.

Note for myself:

Logically it makes sense. But who needs logic when we are speaking about instruments! And sorry, headless basses are just ugly....

Some doodlings in cad.... Headstock and body shape obviously not final

Yep It's brewing in my mind. Since I completed this, I have been thinking about something that is the complete opposite: - Natural finish, just the wood + oil and/or wax - Passive - Maybe neck-through - 2+2 tuners, instead of 4 in line - Separate bridge pieces - Laminated 5-ish piece neck My biggest question at the moment is the truss rod. Well, actually the combination of neck-through and my favorite truss rod desing: the spoke wheel. As far as I can see, this kind of design does not exist. You always find spoke wheel truss rods only on bolt on necks. Having this rod design on a neck through would mean carving this area and after finger board glue up, the spoke wheel would be "permanently" buried there. With bolt on necks, you at least have the chance to access the spoke wheel and remove it for possible lubrication needs in the future.... Hmmmmm, thoughts on this?

Some final shaping on the neck, bit more laquer and we have lift-off A stanley blade is a very effective scraper. Just be careful. Made also a handy neck rest from scraps and some old leather.

Neck dive: I decided to change the tuners to something lighter with the same hole/post diameter. So I only need to plug the screw holes. I can live with that.