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I doubt it's too difficult for someone skilled with the right tools. The tongue and groove parts interlock together so nicely I would hesitate to say you could do it with a jigsaw. The routed edges are very professionally done as is the rubber protective trim, but yeah there's nothing magical about it, and it isn't even plywood: it's MDF. If you didn't care for collapsability then absolutely it would make a nice project. However, I do care about how small it is in the back of the car, and despite getting my hands dirty making BC112 and four BC110 speaker cabinets, if I were to lose my stool I'd probably still buy another one. The design of this along with the quality of the finish really is very nice.

This isn't cheap, but I own one and it's excellent. I use it for an acoustic upright, but it looks like it might accommodate your EUB. Collapses down to nothing, and is a very nice stool for sitting on if that's how you play, and a very nice stool for sitting on when you're not playing if not! https://www.bassico.eu/classical-accessories-instrument-stands/rc-williams-co.-bass-stand-und-stool/8837-0-0-8837-0.htm?cat=908&produkt=3792&l=EN

It's not always true that you can use an amp without a speaker, but for the Elf you can do this.

I misread your username as @TheGreek and spat out my coffee all over the keyboard

It's the opposite. There is no analogue signal in the example I gave. In fact, this may well not be true, but I could believe that the D could stand for digital, as is in effect utilizing a step function alternating between two values to create pulses which are summed.

Switch-mode power supply "chunks" can be aligned with the frequency responses of digital signals: there is no digital analogue conversion (DAC) and therefore you could consider that to be a digital poweramp as there is no analogue signal involved at all. As far as I know, this means of amplification is only available using class D.

Maximum input voltage is 48v which would correspond to their claimed "300W" power. Of course it's all marketing, and still 240W < 300W; they're probably playing fast and loose with RMS vs peak power. For what it's worth, I use a Fosi Audio that's very similar to this. As a hi-fi, it is truly excellent. As a bass amp, it's truly excellent ... as a practice amp. I've never gigged with it, because I have never need to. Built quality is very high, but it's clearly not meant to be thrown into your gig bag. The speakers connections are either bare wire or banana connectors so not designed for frequent plugging unplugging, so that will fail eventually, probably at the worst moment. Also, the components are almost certainly not assembled with excessive vibration in mind, which is the sort of thought you would absolutely want put into a proper gigging amp. The pots feel very nice, but I'm under no illusion that drops which I have inflicted my other pieces of equipment would ruin the Nobsound's, er, knobs. In short, if I was forced to use it on a quiet gig, it absolutely would do the job sonically and I'd be pleased with the results, but an amp is not just about its sound: I would need to rely on it. Because of that, personally I wouldn't use this as my main amp.

OK, I got my SSL 2+ plugged into my Pi4, running Ubuntu Mantic with Linux Kernel 6.5, compiled for low latency. I was able to get a latency of 5ms using a buffer size of 160 with a period of 3 (I think: don't want to spoil the punchline of why I cannot remember). I had Guitarix running with chorus, a cabinet IR and reverb running with 1 buffer underrun according to qjackctl. All was going great, the latency was well within my own limitations as a musician and I was able to play along to my hifi in the room. That was until my Pi crashed and I had to reboot. Now granted I've just upgraded my OS so it may have gremlins still, but I absolutely wouldn't want to rely on this setup out on a gig. It also took multiple attempts of plugging and unplugging the interface for the stars to align and the Pi give the interface enough current for it to start-up. This is an aside, but I thoroughly recommend people try out integrating their Jack setup into Pipewire (an alternative to Jack). I've been frustrated in the past not being able to e.g. listen to Firefox YouTube while Reaper is running, but with Pipewire-Jack integration this is a thing of the past. You can even route Firefox sounds to your DAW and record website music!

Be careful with Focusrite and Linux. They do not sit well together sometimes so check that the interface is "Class Compliant". This is usually to hoover up the iPad market, but if Linux gets thrown a bone in the process then no complaints from me I have a Pi4, and sometimes plug in an SSL2+ interface. It isn't great. Here are things that I found: It couldn't cope with recording, although I wasn't trying it seriously Power draw is a real issue. If your interface takes too much juice from the USB, then it won't start. I cannot use 48v phantom power for example. An interface with separate power source would be much better. Messing around with latencies is a bit of a pain. If I took it too low (4ms) then it sounded awful. I cannot remember what I ended up using but it was definitely double digits, which is absolutely fine for recording (not that I could record) I don't own a Pi5, but as I understand it, it is as fast as a Pi4 unless you put active cooling on it. Bear that in mind when you buy it. If I were doing it seriously I wouldn't think about Pi5 at all: I'd get a second hand Intel laptop. I don't know if this MOD software has been compiled for amd64, but I would be surprised if it hadn't. Pi is really, really good at certain usecases. I have one that I can just leave on as a router, because its power consumption is so low. For a gig, you'll probably be chewing through >100W just through your amp and so the difference of 10W is just going to be line noise. Pis (especially their SD cards) aren't great for reliability either. Sorry to throw a damp towel over your project. It certainly would be fun and I may try it myself one day, but I would personally never ever rely on it for gigging. I've had multiple Pis die on me, which because I'm using them for fun projects is fine. Admittedly these are the older pis and things may be better now.

I'm glad I brought it @stevie. I can say that all the speakers that I tried sounded absolutely fabulous for double bass. Build quality was as good as anything I've seen from any cabinet manufacturer.

Laurence is the type of guy you convinces you to either practise more, or give up. Such a great player, with amazing stories. As an aside, I thought I recognized him, and chatting with him afterwards confirmed it, he's here: Thanks everyone for taking the time to organize the event. My first trip was certainly a great experience.

1 Thomann Electric Cello for sale at the bash.

If someone is interested, I can bring an electric cello for selling at a good price. It's a Thomann one which they don't sell any more.

Is anyone bringing an unlined fretless? I have one which I could bring if not.

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Please put me down as coming. I will be bringing a double bass and my GSS 06b400mkd 6.5" combo.

I know the official hours of this, but do people stick around to the bitter end? If I turned up late, say at 1400, would there still be people around?

Stradivarius didn't have power tools so iterative improvements would have been slow.

I can attest to this. I used a hole saw with a hand drill rather than a pillar drill. It was dangerous and stuff flew everywhere. Lesson learnt. For woofer cutouts I put a nail through the centre of the cutout, and rotate the wood around the nail, trying to keep the running jigsaw steady. I've ended up with some pretty good cutouts although I do say so myself.

Nice summary Phil. One thing that you don't mention is the inherent phase delay of speakers. An ideal speaker would have a defined phase delay between the signal and the output. In practice that just doesn't happen, and the delay is frequency dependent, so as well as having an intrinsic EQ curve for sensitivity, the speaker will have a similar curve for phase. Put identical speakers next to each other, and this doesn't matter as whatever the phase delay is at a particular frequency, these all sum across the speakers so the only phase cancellation is by virtue of the speakers' relative placements. Put different speakers next to each other though, and this no longer holds true, and your sound will be different in a similar way that on a J bass the mid scooped sound of both pickups on full don't sound like you would expect of the sum of the two pickups together. Saying all that, as with the case of a J bass, this may not be a bad thing and you may well love the sound from the mismatch. It's just not very predictable.

What on earth happened to it? I've dropped my ABM badly and it all damage was cosmetic. This.....is something else.

Bear in mind that the ABM1200 is around 50% heavier than the ABM600, and a fair bit bigger: it's quite a chunky monkey, and as @Woodinblack says it has two power sections. In other words if you have one cabinet it will sound identical to the ABM600, and probably even with two it wouldn't sound that much different.