chyc

1 minute ago, Phil Starr said:

New ones  is that the deal? You can have new speakers but only if you throw out all those old socks

 

I never thought my dirty laundry would get an airing on this forum....

How do I put the front baffle in and maintain an airtight seal? It was easy for the BC110T what with the brace all around the edge, but here there isn't that luxury. I have some clamps but I don't think anything appropriate to clamp down on all four sides while keeping it recessed and snug against the braces.

I assume that this is a glue job in which case the box is essentially permanently sealed and interior access thereafter is through the woofer hole. Have I misunderstood the plans?

This looks lovely. Congratulations.

I've always had half an eye on the BN12-300S. It is a crazy light woofer that doesn't go deep, which is fine by me as I aggresively use a HPF anyway.

On 05/11/2022 at 17:18, Phil Starr said:

That's a great photo

My wife disagrees.

I've bought just one instrument at Thomann since B'xit (HB mandolin). It was broken. What on earth is going on with their quality control?

As an aside, delivery was by UPS, who were awful. I received the email that they were going to deliver the day after they delivered it, and I was out. They just left it out on the front door. I also had to pay an outrageous fee, as in a take the p*ss administration fee that UPS just slapped on top of the duty charge and there was nowhere showing that they would do this before I bought the goods. Things are much better in that regard now.

To Thomann's credit, they (eventually) sent another instrument. Guess they figured it was cheaper to just send a second instrument than receive and fix my broken one.

Thanks Stevie. For the record I contacted Blue Aran and they said that supply problems means they don't know if and when they'll get in any other colours of Tuffcab. Such a shame.

Really starting to get into the swing of this. One tip that I never saw anywhere because it's probably so obvious is that when you receive your wood, most likely there'll be a nice side and a crappy side, rough and dented. I made the mistake of drawing my cut lines on a good side. Such a rookie mistake. Also, when you're using a circular saw, be careful for a straight cut, but don't take too long or you'll burn the wood.

Some more questions. @GlamBass74 has been a phenomenal help in DM, but I thought I'd ask for more opinions:

1. Paint. Tuffcab comes in any colour so long as it's black. If I didn't want black, what are my options in Homebase or B&Q for a professional finish that, while not necessarily textured, protects the cabinet from dings and scrapes.
2. Handle: I have a leather strap handle. What's the best way of finding the centre of mass of the box such that the handle is positioned optimally? I'm guessing leaning it on the edge of a table and marking when it's about to tip, but is there anything more precise that I'm missing?

I can only tell you of my own experience, but many years ago I marched into a music shop fully expecting to buy a Sandberg TM. To me it was obvious that the TM with the coil splitter would cover everything that the TT did, and then some. I sat down and played through the range of Sandbergs they had in stock. The TT with both pickups blended at different levels had tones that the TM couldn't match. I bought the TT instead and 12 or so years later and I still have that bass.

3 minutes ago, Oomo said:

I'm far more used to the simplicity of basses/amps - plug in instrument cable, sound comes out I definitely need to read up on line level outputs, balanced vs. unbalanced, hi/low impedance, etc. etc.

Don't, you'll go mad!

Ah, I see now, they're on the back. Line in technically doesn't need any gain, because it's receiving stuff at a standard line level. Your keyboard may well have a line-out option so you may just get away with the Motu for your needs.

2 minutes ago, Oomo said:

On my list to look at was also https://motu.com/en-us/products/m-series/m4/. It seems to get decent reviews and hopefully cover some of the bases.

That looks to only have two analogue inputs, unless I'm missing something obvious.

36 minutes ago, Oomo said:

I'm a bit lazy when it comes to audio setup, so would be great to have mic/bass/keyboard/etc. plugged into an interface all the time, and be able to record and listen to input via headphones, without having to unplug one and plug in another each time I want to swap between things. Separate gain control for each input is really nice too.

It's interface replacement time I'm afraid if that's your requirement. There are bodges to allow for e.g. two dual input interfaces to record simultaneously (Google ASIO4ALL if you're interested) but they're bodges and I couldn't get it working when I tried. Some interfaces allow for additional inputs. The Audient iD44 that I own is one such interface, but the SSL2+ most definitely is not.

So, with that said I can recommend the iD44, although without the MIDI you'll instead have to use USB or possibly the SSL2+'s MIDI I/O. The iD44 has the benefit of input expansion of up to 20 analogue inputs via its ADAT input, but you'd need to spend even more money for those.

If it's the SSL2+ rather then the SSL2 then it should have two MIDI I/O sockets at the back. These are the sockets that look like the really old mouse/keyboard inputs, only bigger. The SSL2 has no MIDI, but as @skidder652003 says you have options, either to plug into the USB port on your computer or use a jack and record the analogue audio coming from the keyboard. I've done the former and it works, but was a real pain to find the driver for my very old keyboard.

Good luck. If you do want to replace your interface, I will say the one you have is a mighty fine one so don't be too disappointed if your replacement doesn't quite stack up, unless you're prepared to splash cash. I own the SSL2+ and an Audient iD44. The latter is better, but not by a country mile and it doesn't even do MIDI!

Trying to join the illustrious BC112mk3 club. Panels cut and some glued together.

I actually enjoyed cutting the brace around the handle.

Now just a case of plucking up the courage to cut those braces. Eek. I did try to experiment with nice corner cuts with the rear connector panel:

One thing that I don't understand with the instructions is what it's asking for with a recessed panel. Is that required? What does it look like?

For the record, I purchased four sheets of wood for examining and building cabinets.

1. 12mm soft plywood from B&Q
2. Baltic birch [BB] from Fulham Timbers
3. Marine ply from Fulham Timbers
4. 15mm soft plywood from Fulham Timbers

The speaker you see above is the B&Q 12mm soft plywood. I was going to lead up to the BB after practising using the B&Q timber. Definitely the BB is better quality and looks nicer, but my goodness was it expensive. I cannot bring myself to say how much I paid for it, but you know where I bought it from, and prices are a Google away..... I want a natural finish on my cabinets to distinguish it from commercial cabinets. In my opinion the B&Q is good enough but too soft: it's very prone to dents and knocks. Whether I can strengthen it using yacht varnish is something I will experiment with later.

The marine ply was also reasonably pricey, and feels harder and better quality than the B&Q. The main downside that I wish I'd known about is that marine ply is darn heavy, waay heavier than the BB. I was hoping to build a BFM Omni 12 Tallboy with the marine ply but that design is already a heavy one and I don't want it any heavier.

The 15mm ply is incredibly poor quality, which is a shame as it is of a similar price to the B&Q 12mm which looks so good. I was hoping to build the BC112T using it and I may well still do that, but can't help feeling disappointed that I could have spent my money better. At the heart, the difference I think is that if you drive to B&Q you can select the nicest sheet. B&Q doesn't sell 15mm in any shape or size.

Thank you.

I was happy with ol' chippy, but this one is a different animal. It goes louder, and is deeper.

You'll notice the protrusion of the back panel. In the original chipboard cabinet the tolerances were so loose that I didn't notice that my battens were 21mm width, not 20mm. Well, on the plus side my measurements are improving!

I think my next one I'll leave a lip around the back panel, so I can sand it down for a really tight finish.

4 hours ago, GlamBass74 said:

good stuff - you've got the bug!

You're too right. I'm looking at a table with four speakers in boxes. I have three sheets of plywood of various quality outside in the garage, some cut already and my chippy cabinet is still warm from the jigsaw cutting still.

I have some questions still:

1. I affixed the port using duct tape. I *think* it's a good seal, and I did it because I want to remake the cabinet using decent wood. When I do, what should I use as a better solution? Is duct tape good enough?
2. I wish to reuse the battens. There will be holes in them from the old screws. Is that OK?

Boom

There are gaps the size of the mariana trench, but hopefully everything is sealed up nicely. I didn't put wadding in, because I want to save it for a later build that isn't made of OSB.

Saying that, I guess the question people want answering is "how does it sound?" Pretty good is the answer. No deep throbbing lows, but I'm not too fussed as I'm predominantly a double bass player, and this cabinet is perfectly tuned for that. There is wonderful string detail coming from the tweeter that usually comes across as horribly harsh in other cabs. The woofer isn't broken in either so I expect it to mellow out as it ages.

One step that I found difficult was the fitting of the front baffle. The brace across its front is one snug fit. Impotant I know but the tolerances are such that it was a real pain to get that in.

I wish to thank everyone on this thread for their advice and support . This has been a wonderful experience both online and in the workshop (aka garage) and the tips I learnt here are invaluable. Similarly I hope this thread serves as a useful supplement to the main thread on this cabinet. I will be building more and hopefully will put more pictures up online as I go.

Speaking of that, I'm currently waiting on a delivery of a CDX1-1425......

OK, progress update, I found a drink that can be used as a port extender!

Bunnahabhain is available in Tesco's, but I won't add it to the list of component above as your tastes may vary.

I cannot remember the thread I read this from, but someone mentioned that for decent circular cuts you put a screw in the centre of the circle and cut using a stationary jigsaw while rotating the panel of wood.  Below is a picture of my attempt, using a pallet I found on the side of the road as something to screw into. You can see the result, a circular disc with the screw in its centre and a baffle with a hole in it. Also at the far left of the baffle you can see the notch caused by the hole I drilled, to get the jigsaw into place. I now know (experience is everything) that you drill inbound of the required diameter and slowly spiral out to the required distance. That way you don't get the notch.

As you can see, I went off piste with the woofer. To say I'd be pretty piste off if this were decent wood would be an understatement but this I'm here to learn from this and learn I did, and on cheap wood!

Let this be a lesson to future woodworkers, if you are cutting a circle you need the full circle drawn on the wood. Putting dots every 90 degrees does not work even if you think you're not moving the jigsaw. My mistake above is evidence of this. The forces required to hold a vibrating jigsaw are too great and you will not be able to keep it still while you rotate the sheet of wood.

Anyway, the other two holes came out beautifully. The port doesn't have the drill notches by virtue of the spiralling technique I mentioned above:

The plans give exact millimetre measurements, but they are darn forgiving. I wouldn't say I made bad measurements, but this is the first time I've done anything like this so I'm grateful that any deviations (other than the colossal one for the woofer) won't be noticeable in the final product. Here's the baffle with all the components in:

I'm so keen to finish, but unfortunately I've had a few too many shots of Bunnahabhain (hiding behind the baffle in shot above) and so power tools are out of the question, at least for now.

While I'm waiting to sober up, what should I do to fill the accidental hole I made? Can I leave it? It's larger than the mounting of the woofer unfortunately.

I sent an email to Ashdown including a few egregious typos and errors present on their website. It's been weeks and most of the errors are still there. It's like they don't care.

Personally I don't think they realise how bad it makes them look. For me it makes Ashdown look like such an amateur outfit and unfortunately as much as I love them for many things, their online presence is a shadow of their competitors and they will be punished for it. I didn't even want anything for pointing out the mistakes: I just want them to succeed because they ace so much else.

16 minutes ago, Owen said:

Of course, if we all had access to a decent bridge we would not need any reverb plugins.

A bridging amplifier would give a similar sound I think.

On 05/10/2022 at 09:28, Al Krow said:

Yes indeedy! It's the new BB3 and available from BF with cover for £1,121 (on at the same price as a new BB2). 

I'd be careful with the terminology here. From the photo this 100% definitely is a BB2, not a BB3. However, it is a Gen 3 Barefaced cabinet, using the 12XN woofers. Prior cabinets used off the shelf Eminence drivers.

2 hours ago, agedhorse said:

What is magnetic plywood?

It carries over to the next line: 'Magnetic plywood MagLeg'. Presumably it's the attachment mechanism of the feet

You've got a real skill @GlamBass74 that looks amazing! I'm going to be making a BC112T eventually, then probably a Jack 12. Like @eude says if either of mine turns out half as good as yours that'd suit me fine.

Love the cover as well. May have to steal that idea! Thanks Mrs GlamBass74!

Stahp! I'm already building three BC cabinet design cabinets. A fourth would probably tip the Mrs over the edge, with for reason I hasten to add.

In all seriousness this looks good. I have a 6.5" which is amazing for DB and I suspect this one is cut from similar cloth.