chyc

A bridging amplifier would give a similar sound I think.

It carries over to the next line: 'Magnetic plywood MagLeg'. Presumably it's the attachment mechanism of the feet

You've got a real skill @GlamBass74 that looks amazing! I'm going to be making a BC112T eventually, then probably a Jack 12. Like @eude says if either of mine turns out half as good as yours that'd suit me fine. Love the cover as well. May have to steal that idea! Thanks Mrs GlamBass74!

Stahp! I'm already building three BC cabinet design cabinets. A fourth would probably tip the Mrs over the edge, with for reason I hasten to add. In all seriousness this looks good. I have a 6.5" which is amazing for DB and I suspect this one is cut from similar cloth.

I don't own the EMG JVX, but there's a good video demoing in on YT. Slap starts at 4:04 but it has all main styles if you start the video from the beginning. I'll leave it to you to decide if that's a good MM soundalike.

This is better

As far as I can tell. I have all the parts for the build now. Many thanks go to @stevie for the inductor, which as far as I can tell is unavailable anywhere else online. Here's my crossover: I look at the original schematic, and I'm reminded of the barbecue building scene from the Simpsons. In any case, with only three components even I struggled to fail at building it. Here is the tweeter, XO and woofer all in one circuit, hooked up to my trusty GSS Bullet amplifier: I've been listening to music all day with these two speakers in free-space, and I've got a serious problem: I fear that this build may give me a cabinet far better than anything I need, and the 12PR320 I have sitting next to me is redundant. The sound is pleasant to say the least. Highs are prominent but not harsh and the lows are firm without rattling the teeth. This setup will almost certainly make a fabulous PA top. Just for curiosity, I swapped the 2520E for the 12PR320 in the circuit above and the much preferred the sound of the former, but then that would be obvious as the XO is designed for it (of sorts). I then disconnected the tweeter and listened some more, and I still prefer the 2520E, but again that's plausible as the box can make quite a difference to the sound. This has been amazing fun so far. Can't wait to finish the job. The only hiccough was that I went round Sainsbury's trying to find a whisky bottle with a cylindrical sleeve to use as a port extender. Alas I could find none with the requisite diameter. Having a celebrationary whisky which contributed to the build would have been perfect Right, onto the box.

You'll get as many recommendations as responses I reckon. The local music shop where I live (PMT) has a selection of headphone out on display for you to try before you buy which is what I would do if I were in your position. You'd get really nice cans for £300, but there are some general principals that I look out for Open back vs closed back. All things being equal I much, much prefer open but the downside is there's a lot of sound bleeding in both directions. If you're in a quiet office you'll annoy your colleagues with open backed headphones, and if you're in a noisy office you'll get distracted with the outside noise. Bass response is generally better with closed, but I don't care about graphs: my ears tell me I prefer the open variety even for bass. Weight: I've tried headphones that sound great, but fatigue my neck too much when worn for extended periods. Comfort: For me this comes back to open vs closed. Closed headphones don't allow air to circulate and my ears overheat. Input impedance: Less of an issue these days but in the past some headphones would have ludicrously high input impedance. This would mean that consumer gear hifis wouldn't be able to get the best out of them. Watch out for 600Ω beasts and such cans do exist in the £300 range! Wireless vs wired: I am a luddite and will choose wired any day of the week. If I were to choose headphones again (I have and love my Sennheiser HD580s BTW) I'd put comfort above sound quality, and they would be light, open backed, and with an impedance around 150Ω. HTH

Done and done. And I mean done.

I think the fog is clearing. So it's that the tweeters, with the cabs on their side, will be vertically stacked in either configuration, but if mirrored they're closer together for better vertical dispersion? Thanks

Can someone please explain this to me like I'm 5: why do identical (not mirrored) baffles have not vertically aligned tweeters when on their side?

@GlamBass74If you could report back how you get on with the grille I'd be very interested. The instructions say you contact an eBay seller, to get something relisted on eBay if it's missing (which it is). Blue Aran lists grilles but they're out of stock. In the end for my current build of the BC110T I went with a circular disc grille. Hella ugly (IMO) but cheap and easy to buy. Saying all that, if you know somewhere where I can get a proper BC112T grille.......

Here you go

Question: Is Wool Cool a good material for wadding? Is it good enough? I mean this stuff, found in insulated boxes from places like Riverford. One of my neighbours is getting rid of some.

I'm lost. Has a post been deleted?

NTR10-2520E ordered, along with the CDX1-1070. I really hope that I got the tweeter right as that part is somewhat buried in the main thread. Also @stevie is very kindly making the inductors for this. Next up it's buying the caps and resistors, and wiring it all together. For the benefit of future builders, here are the parts, and where to buy them: Woofer: Officially Celestion Pulse 10 but I swapped it for the Celestion NTR-2520E Tweeter: Celestion CDX1-1070 Throat horn: I think it's a choice of 1 according to the spec. Here it is Port: Tuffcab 100mm. Needs to be extended by 2 inches with cardboard Resistor: 4.7ohm 20W Capacitor: 2.2uF 250V Inductor: 0.11mF. Custom made by @stevie so contact him with the specification. Available on eBay Speakon dish. You may find something better than this, but you probably won't. Speakon connector: Neutrik is the best. Wadding: A neighbour had wool-cool going spare. This comes with meat online orders I think Little things that seem so obvious but you don't have when you need them: Wire to join up the various components. Mains cable is fine, but this is cheap and high quality too Cable ties for fixing the crossover components to a board Glue gun to stop the crossover components vibrating Screws! Nothing I bought came with any screws. Buy what you need from B&Q, and buy loads. Spade connectors. You will need two sizes, one for the speakon, one for the tweeter. Chocolate block to connect up wires, particularly to connect up the crossover. Buy one block and cut it into pairs using scissors. The following are nice-to-haves, and I bought them: Rubber feet: Buy whatever size you like, but I went chunky. A pack of 16 allows you to fit them vertically and horizontally Corner protectors: Again buy to taste. I went industrial Grille: Getting a full front grille was just too hard to source. I only care about protecting the woofer, so bought the grille and the kit to mount it Top hat: Only if you want to mount on a pole. Metal is heavy. Wish I'd thought of that before I bought it. I will add to this list as I see it.

Thanks Phil. I'm edging towards the NTR-2520E at this point purely because of the discount at lean-business. It looks like a beast of a woofer. Downsides to that are that it has a larger diameter, so if I want to hard-swerve back to the comfort of the Pulse10 it's a new baffle time. Will I have to adjust the port depth for this speaker? I seem to remember that the port was already fairly close to the back panel.

After months of deliberation my father and I decided to give the BC110T a crack. Ultimate aim is to give ourselves the experience to build a 12", but that's another story. Instructions by @Phil Starrand @stevieare exemplary. Although the divergence from those instructions is minimal, we are doing things a little differently: You can see the wood is not plywood, but OSB. That just so happens to be the wood we had available. Once the box is done most likely we will finish with a hard epoxy or yacht varnish so that it looks amateur, but still is resilient to knocks. We haven't bought it yet, but we will swap out the Pulse10 driver for either the BN10-300X(8) or (Stevie's suggestion) the NTR10-2520E. Both of those woofers are more expensive than the Pulse10, but not by a huge amount. Their parameters are very similar to the Pulse10 where that's important, and they exceed in the others where that's preferable. I cannot really add to the instructions laid out in the mega thread on the topic. They're perfect. I will say that I'm super excited to make some noise at the end of the build, as well as during it. The table saw cut the wood like butter, and the cut was extremely accurate and true. The circular saw was equally straight with a jig, but it was much harder, with clamps and the like. In the end we cut the big panel down to smaller manageable chunks using the circular saw, and the table saw made the mm perfect cuts. The battens were from B&Q, and were cut using a mitre saw, pictured. Progress will be slow but I hope to keep this thread updated with developments. The battens have been dry mounted to the panels. We will save the gluing for a later date.

Thanks for that. I assume this is a different design and not a cut-n-shut on 2 x BC112mk3. 18kg is impressive for a 2x12!

Let me add a 4. Parts availability: The Jack 112 is built around an American supply-chain, compared with the BC112mk3 which was designed for building in the UK. For the Jack, the woofers are Eminence and the piezos are much, much cheaper in the US than here in these fair shores, and you need to buy loads for the meld array. Whether the Faital Pro 12PR320 can go toe to toe with the Eminence Kappalite 3012 is not really a fair question as they're not the same and probably have different goals, and the BFM gives a range of options so there's something for every price point but I cannot shake the feeling that adjusting parts for the same cost (to me in the UK), I'd end up with nicer components for the BC112 than the Jack.

Thank you Phil for your helpful answers. As I read up on its build process, the BC112mk3 and its instructions are complete in the sense that there's no ambiguity and two different but skilled woodworkers would end up with identical performing boxes finished to the same standard. I definitely do not class myself in that category. At the same time you are absolutely correct that BFM plans include step by step instructions compared with a parts list, dimensions and cutting list for the BC112mk3. As I've already paid for the BFM plans I cannot factor the plans' cost into the build cost comparison, although conversely I will resist temptation to fall into the sunk cost fallacy trap. For the benefit of those reading, there are some things that are huge (IMHO) benefits of choosing the BC design: Metric units: Yes, I can convert from one measurement to another, but it almost seems like willful obstinence that the BFM designs only have imperial units. The BFM forums say that there are online converters, which is fine, but given that these are commercial plans and so you are not allowed to share it, this means that everyone who wants to convert has to do this individually and cannot give back to the community, even if they wanted to. Angular cuts: BC112 seems to be straight cuts (with two very notable exceptions). The Jack baffle is rather daunting (this is one sheet of ply) and I would say getting this precise is more important than the BC112 bracing, which is a similar concept of a window frame design. Also the BFM has straight cuts with the edge at an angle. One is 23°, and there are optional cuts at 66° and 24°. The plans say you can complete the build without a table saw, but I would say this needs to be caveated with the fact that your circular saw needs to do arbitrary angles to the horizontal, which my one cannot. Vertical dispersion: Much is made of Jack's meld array with its 120° horizontal dispersion. The BC112 uses a horn with a smaller 90° horizontal dispersion. However, a meld array smooths out its high response by putting loads of piezos in a vertial stack, which compromises horizontal (Update: vertical) dispersion. There is no data on BFM's plans as to vertical dispersion but the top and bottom piezos will be 10" apart, so it's probably going to be a laser beam! This won't be so good for a bass cabinet on the floor with an amp on top. The BC112's PH-170 has 65° vertical dispersion. To be fair to the Jack, there's no free lunch and the plans say as much; there's an option to dial back the number of piezos to increase vertical dispersion at the expense of high frequency sensitivity. In conclusion, there is no conclusion. I wake up each day thinking something different. Probably in the end the Jack 112 will win out basically because of the crossover, but I hope that my ramblings will help people after me reach an independent decision, crucially before sinking any money into the BFM plans like I did.

You're asking the wrong crowd! Everyone here will massively undervalue it in the hope you do actually post it at that price, then snap it up. Not me though, you can trust me. I think £150 is a fair asking price.

A week or so ago I asked some questions about building a BFM Jack 112 and got some very helpful answers from the community. The main question was "can I put a Faital 12PR320 into it?" To which the general answer was "yes, but....." As a happy coincidence, there is a cabinet that does take the Faital 12PR320, the Basschat 112 Mk3! I'm now torn between which one to build. As sound is so subjective I'll put that to one side, assuming I'll like the sound of both. It's the build process that interests me. I have a table saw, a circular saw and a jigsaw, a soldering iron, and absolutely no experience with any of them! They are all borrowed for the purposes of this project. 1. Crossover: The BC112 crossover is a significant portion of the build process. I would say that BFM's crossover is within my capability, but the snake-pit of cables and pool of solder I would normally leave makes the BC112 beyond me. Is there anyone on this channel who would be prepared to make a BC112mk3 crossover for me and if so how much would it cost? I've roughly costed up both builds and the BC112 is cheaper, but it's close and this may tip the scales the other way given the difference between buying parts and buying a prebuilt BFM crossover at speakerhardware.com 2. Ply: 15mm looks to be elusive in all the places I'm looking. Am I just not looking hard enough? I'm not the kind of player to shred speakers: I've survived on the AI 1x10 so far, so with that in mind, would I get away with 12mm? Assuming this is OK, I can account for the change in size due to the box dimensions changing, but will I need to change the bracing design (or said another way are the dimensions sensitive enough to be affected by the change in width of the bracing?) 3. Back plate: I cannot visualize what's going on here. There's no mention of what connector to buy in the Part list. Is it just one Speakon that's drilled into the scrap ply left over from the horn cutout? 4. Wire: Mostly moot if I can get the crossover pre-built, but what wire do I use to wire this all up internally? I'm fairly new to all this and I intend on going to Wilko's to buy their "speaker cable" and split the two wires, irrespective of which design I end up building. 5. CNC and glue: I obviously don't want to start if the tolerances are such that a CNC build is required. The instructions say to use wood glue, and NOT to use PU. By contrast BFM says to use PU and NOT to use wood glue. I can understand the reasoning for both, but given that I won't be CNCing and the PU is designed to fill the gaps in the imperfections in the cut, would I get away with cutting using saws and using PU? I already have a bottle of both glues.