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Silky999

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Silky999

  1. I think you are right. I’m such a silly goose…….I have changed the advert. I think they are big singles.
  2. Routing all finished and a cheeky little Paulowenia inlay on the edge of the neck pocket as a bit of an experiment to compliment the Maple neck.
  3. Today’s projects…..walnut control plate for a jazz bass and final oil hand hand before curing and nitro on the lightweight Stingray. The chatoyance on that bit of Paulownia really does shimmer!
  4. As in a 6 string strat?????? If so, I have never made a guitar and not a bass so I would need to get a template for it. It would depend on what finish, if you provided the body blank etc. drop me a WhatsApp 07554 4323314 and we can chat but it at the risk of doing my own legs and pocket lol, it be may cheaper to buy a Chinese Paulowenia pre-cut strat body like this; https://ebay.us/m/I1yGHE Then I finish it for you with a combination of handed sanded oil and wax or nitro paint and/or nitro clearcoat or poly. The only thing with this option is you will not be able to pick the wood blank or choose different pickup routes. Likewise folks, if you just need a body, I’m not precious about putting the whole thing together if that’s all you need. I am already building some basses bodies for several members who are waiting for graphite necks and completely open to just doing the body if you are able to do the rest yourself.
  5. Hmmmm…..these intrigue me…..will check the piggy bank
  6. Thank you for voting and your comments……. The wood is………..Paulownia. The body is 2.8lbs/1.2kg at the moment and my hope is to keep the whole bass under 7lbs whilst reducing any neck dive by using lightweight tuners and a heavy bridge to balance.
  7. The latest build is a lightweight Stingray for a member on here. It will be paired with one of Kiwi’s graphite necks. For a bit of fun, guess what the wood is…. The top photos are with Liberon Finahing oil applied, the side view photos are the natural colour.
  8. You should give it a go…….It was the first major thing I did on my modding/building journey after changing pickups and electronics. Just use a slightly smaller brad point drill bit on its own by hand to ream out the old dots then a bit of wood glue or superglue, insert the new ones, cut to length with some side cutting snips and sand with a little sandpaper. The old dots came out quite easily using the drill bit method.
  9. I ordered mine from here; https://meisterworks.myshopify.com/en-gb/collections/luminlay-products you can change the currency at top right of page to GBP
  10. I have installed Luminlay in several basses and always used the Japanese original product. It comes remarkably quickly when ordered and a quick blast with a light source is enough to charge them. I have got a uv torch off Amazon and that does the job for not a lot of money.
  11. I slotted the nylon ones when I fitted the hipshots and fitted like a glove. It was was that or try and ream them out a mm or 2 I used 10mm length and these were invisible when the tuner was inserted.
  12. Nylon bushes work really well. That’s what I have used on hipshots before. Something like this? https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bearings-Plastic-Bushes-Plain-Plastic-Bushes/c3_7393_7507/index.html?selection=Polymer+Plastic+Plain+Bushes&currency=EUR&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22899024857&gbraid=0AAAAAD-_g0G0gk7d4QmDX_CQkkTkSs_jf&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgKjHBhChARIsAPJR3xfybaezK0fAD-aI_5EQ_83ZY_clj2wXLACS7-AzSPas9YNAkF3dXOcaArEYEALw_wcB
  13. Lovely looking bass.
  14. I believe the tributes were the real money makers for them so I’m not surprised that Fender will keep those going. The L2000s and L1000s gives them a good foothold into Musicman territory especially compared to the Stirling by Musicman range.
  15. Thank you Andy…. I think its going to be a short scale with 30” neck as its difficult to find one in a natural wood body and I don’t want to have any neck dive.
  16. I have already cut it as a normal right side bass. Yeah I have a pillar drill and fresh bit. I think using inserts and possibly a custom made walnut neck plate will stop knot having to take too much load. I’m hoping the when I route the neck pocket, the knot goes off at and angle and there will be plenty of good wood in the pocket.
  17. I have filled it with milliput black epoxy to re-enforce it and plan to use machine screws and inserts as well. I’m hoping the knot goes off at angle so when I route out the neck pocket, it will not be a problem. Also if I use a short scale neck it will give me a few mm extra clearance as the neck pocket will be smaller. It will certainly be good practice for a lightweight Stingray body that I have been asked to do.
  18. I am going to try and make a walnut control plate and then the option of pickguard or no pickguard
  19. Thank you, I have narrowed the width and reduced the size of the horns. It also has a 12.7 radius round over around the body so very curvy. I’m wondering whether to keep it quite grainy and not sanding to such a high grit as I would usually. It really is very lightweight and I’m thinking that a 34” scale neck might be too much on it
  20. So I went with A for the front. It’s a thin body (32mm) and slightly smaller than a P size so it will be an interesting project to see how everything fits. I will definitely have to go for lightweight tuners to combat neck dive. Part of me is thinking about doing a short scale.
  21. oh yeah, I never noticed the face!
  22. I love my Tribute L2000. Really versatile and it has has the K mod so pickups can be split, series or parallel. I put a Japanese premium G and L neck on it so it now has a more jazz bass width instead of the chunky one it had before. I kept the original in case I ever want to put it back.
  23. Oh she will be, she accepts she’s a bass widow lol
  24. When you turn your spare room to a drying/curing room using an eBay clothes rack and some hooks lol
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