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Silky999

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Everything posted by Silky999

  1. Silky999
    The best thing with wraps is they are very durable and protect the body underneath from scratches and knocks. If you get bored of it, just take it off.
  2. Silky999
    Mines only wrapped on one side with a seam of tape around the edge;
  3. Silky999
    This really is a bargain......honestly lol
  4. Silky999
    Yeah the 5751 is about 70 gain opposed to the 100 or so of a 12AX7. With it in V1, I can crank the gain higher before going into overdrive which I prefer.
  5. Silky999
    I’m selling my backup rig of a Warwick Protube IV amp along with handmade 2x10 and 1x15 cabs. These were made by an ex-Warwick tech according to the chap I bought them off and are loaded with Emminence drivers. Each cab runs at 8ohms. I can’t tell you what the actual drivers are as I’ve never had the cabs apart. The light coloured wood around the cabs isn’t damage. It’s a deliberate feature where the wood was masked off prior to painting . These are really well built cabs and solid as a rock. They were clearly made by someone who knew what they were doing The Protube IV is 400w at 4 ohms and has a separate tube and solid state channels. It is housed in a Gator type hard case. I have never gigged this rig as it was bought as a back up just prior to the start of the pandemic last year. Tonally, it offer a very broad range as you can imagine with having the option of tube or solid state. The channels cannot be combined unfortunately so you selected one or the other. I believe you can get a foot switch to be able to change channels on the fly. Pickup is from Bracknell, Berks and I’m working from home at the moment so loads of flexibility. Feel free to bring your face mask and try it out before you take away. I won’t take less than £300 as the amp and cabs separately are worth that if not more. This rig would suit someone putting their toes into amp/stack water, as a back up or if you’re looking for a compact gigging rig to suit all styles of music.
  6. Silky999
    That’s brilliant. Thanks for the advice.
  7. Silky999
    I am going to be wiring these to a Bartolini 5.2ap 918 preamp. I have looked at the wiring diagrams for both and have some questions if anyone is able to help. I get confused with the concept of grounding The pickups have three wires which are hot, ground and shield. Can I just connect the ground and shield together and solder to the foil cavity shielding as one ground or do I need to do something separately for each of them? If I can ground together, can I ground both pickups at the same point so all four pickup wires in one spot? Further to that can I put all the ground wires in one spot on the foil i.e jack ground, pickups, bridge etc? I have attached the relevant wiring diagrams so I’m talking about the black and grey wires from the pickups, basically where shall I solder them? Any advice is much appreciated as is anyone who can explain grounding in relation to bass wiring in simple terms to me as I want to be able to work on my basses myself....thanks.
  8. Silky999
    This.........
  9. Silky999
    Got Model Js on my Rockbass Corvette paired with an East Unipre preamp. I agree with Johndabass about the tonal options. They run quite hot which I like and have lovely punchy mids. No experience of the SDs though.
  10. Silky999
    My 1989 Ibanez SR800LE.....my first proper bass
  11. Silky999
    Now that looks a great pedal! I assume it’s a valve based preamp?
  12. Silky999
    They’re fascinating little things aren’t they. Being born at the beginning of the 70s, valves were really not a thing I grew with. I must admit I do love their form and function and there’s something very tactile about them.
  13. Silky999
    I have a GB Streamliner 900 that I have put some different tubes in. All were sourced off the dreaded eBay and none cost more than £10. V1 - some unbranded 5751 8 shot revolver getter??? V2 - Telefunken ECC83 which has a B at the start of the serial number...Berlin??? V3 - Mullard ECC83 made in Blackburn??? I chose the valves as they were cheap and seemed possibly reasonable manufacturers but I know little to nothing about valves. I wanted a lower gain valve in V1. There seemed to be a lot of talk around long and short ladders, getters and all that malarkey. The amp sounds so different in a good way now, much clearer and less distortion and just tighter sounding. I get that the 5751 is a lower gain valve so hence less grrrr at a higher gain level but why does changing one brand ECC83 to another in V2 and V3 affect the tone? Surely they are much of a muchness but I noticed a real change when I took the standard Ruby out in V2 and put in the Telefunken. Even more pronounced when the Ruby in V3 was swapped for the Mullard. Can someone explain why one ECC83 affects the tone more than another? Is it just a placebo effect?
  14. Silky999
    Portable!? It’s wheelable lol
  15. Silky999
    I run an XR18 for our 4 piece. I looked at the RCF and XR16 but wanted to futureproof. I got mine pre-owned for £250 so couldn’t pass the offer up really. I would like to get an X32 eventually but they are £££ even pre-owned. I have a router permenantly attached and a laptop hardwired to that. I also have a long Ethernet cable so that if we (rarely) have someone to do the sound, they can move the laptop wherever. Do not trust the built in router! I wanted the ability to USB out all the channels as I want to be able to record and mix our own tracks via a laptop. The routing options are immense and being able to set up all the levels and mixes to IEMS at a practice, save them and use at a gig is brilliant. You can just tweak the levels and EQ for different venues and if you play the same venue regularity, there’s the option of saving it as a preset. Downside is also the sheer amount of functionality as there is a steep learning curve as others have said. All the key stuff is done via the laptop and then tweaks to volume can be done on the fly via my phone. It’s all mounted in a small wheeled flight case. I am going to get some ventilated blanking panels to tidy up the flight case and hide wires etc.
  16. Silky999
    Another option may be Ernie Ball Cobalt wrapped flats and round wounds? I’ve got the flats on a couple of basses and love them as they have almost that round wound zing.
  17. Silky999
    What about Tapewounds such as D’addario?
  18. Silky999
    Admin....can you move to repairs and technical please? Posted in wrong forum
  19. Silky999
    I followed Agedhorse’s excellent “how to” to remove the old blue leds and install some new slightly smaller and less bright ones. They were working intermittently so I bit the bullet despite them only serving an aesthetic purpose. It can be done with the PCB in situ with the valves removed. I’d say a solder sucker and some liquid flux is a must to be able to do the job as you are soldering in a very small area and it would be easy to over solder. The PCB clearly shows the + and — holes. I put 3mm 30mA leds in cut to length which are not as bright as the stock but ample for the purpose.
  20. Silky999
    I’ve check the socket and it’s genuine Neutrik from a reputable seller, CPC Farnell. I resoldered the connections and the socket and PCB are lovely and tight now. I don’t think I had the iron hot enough as I was worried about burning the board. It passes the wiggle test now lol
  21. Silky999
    So checked it again today and the sound is cutting out if the speakon cable is wobbled. I know that it shouldn’t happen during a gig but it worries me that it could fail completely. I think that the tangs on the PCB mount speakon are a little too short to get a good solder anchor through the board. I’m going to remove the PCB and use a normal 4 pole speakon as suggested by Downunderwonder. I’ll leave the original plate and other speakon and 1/4 jack socket but they will be unwired. It just means it can’t be used as 2 x 410 which I can’t imagine ever using anyway but could be put back to stock if required. I’m just waiting on some Faston connectors as I don’t want to solder the wires directly to the speakon tangs thanks for all the advice
  22. Silky999
    Thanks, I have mounted a new combo speakon socket to the PCB and everything is working as it should. If I get any more issues, I will pull the lot and just put a normal speakon wired +1 -1 to run all 8 drivers with no stereo option.
  23. Silky999
    Thank you, I also need to change the speakon 1/4 combo socket for the 810 as it will only power all 8 speakers when using 1/4 jack not speakon. It is soldered to a pcb. I’ve ordered the correct sockets for a vertical pcb mount and I’m assuming that I melt the solder on the rear of the pcb to remove the socket then mount the new one and resolder similar to mounting the leds in the GB. I was thinking of removing the options of the pcb and switching to 2 x 410 or 810and just having one speakon socket to power all 8 speakers with one of the speakon 4 pole sockets with the screw terminals for ease. There are 2 wires going to to the pcb from each set of 4 speakers. Obviously + & —. Would I wire both sets of positive to the 1+ and both negatives to 1–, leaving 2+ and 2– unused? Or would I use 1+ and 1– for one set of speakers and 2+ and 2– for the other set?
  24. Silky999
    Thanks chaps, I’ll stick to a single cable. Agedhorse......are you the same person as the font of GB knowledge on another forum? If so I read your post about changing out the leds and your very reasonable service charges. This Streamliner has the intermittent led issue and you’re a few thousand miles away. I am a bit of whiz with a soldering station. Any particular tips or advice for swapping the leds? I’ve sourced some 30 mA leds, got my liquid flux, deoxit, solder sucker etc. Is there an easy way to tell the flow direction for the led so I don’t put them the wrong way around?
  25. Silky999
    Absolutely, can’t fault them.
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