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Thanks and having checked, the V2 has a pre-post switch for the DI out.

Thanks for your kind comments 😀. Good luck with your sale! WRT buying and selling on BC; it’s a great place to do it. You have probably the biggest and most knowledgeable audience of bassists in Europe. It might be worth putting your bass up on here. There are some posts from the Mods with guidance on how to go about it safely. Worth checking those out. There is quite a lot of trust involved but there are ways to reduce the risk.

Hi Folks, Pending payment now. Like my amps and cabs, I'm sure my basses have been multiplying while my back was turned. I now have too many and I have to thin the herd. Up for sale is my Nordstrand Acinonyx V1 4 string in Lake Placid Blue. This one is not from the original batch and consequently hasn't suffered from some of the issues those had, like the dropping bridge saddles and pickups. The full spec of the bass can be found here on the Nordstrand website: https://nordstrandaudio.com/products/acinonyx-short-scale-bass?srsltid=AfmBOoqXRCMzsQ38QEkKuMECUYDt-DGX53aeBYqGr9AYmHWpuGsqi1lr. The headlines are that it is an extremely light bass, with a 30.7" scale and 1.4" nut. Bridge spacing is 17mm. Combined with the slim neck, it is extremely easy to play and great ergonomically. A great bass for those 3 hour gigs.The Nordstrand made pickups are very powerful and it has a wide range of tonal options. It has quality Hipshot hardware as well. I got a bit fed up of the original push button switches for pickup selection and tone. I liked the concept of being able to get predictable tones at the press of a switch but I didn't much like the execution. I found it particularly difficult to select the series "all-in" option. Consequently I had a new scratch plate made (while pearl) that allowed me to wire it up with a 4 position telecaster switch and a varitone switch for tone. The switch positions are 1. fully forward - both pickups in series ("all-in"); 2. front pickup solo; 3. both pickups in parallel; 4. bridge pickup solo. The varitone switch has 6 positions ranging from off to 0.1 uf. The volume pot is now a full sized CTS 250 k audio taper and the jack socket is a Pure Tone. While I was doing this I took the opportunity to improve the shielding with copper tape in the cavity and back of the scratch plate. It is now a lot quieter than standard. I find this switching and tone arrangement much easier to use than the original. However, these modifications can be easily reversed. I have the original electronics and scratch plate, so the bass can be returned to standard very easily but with improved shielding. If you would prefer, I can return the bass to original spec before posting/collection. You can have the new parts (which cost around £130) as well, or if you opt to keep my mods, I will provide the original parts in the price. I have included a picture of the bass in original spec. The bass is in very good condition. I can't find any marks, dings or scratches on the body and there is only one small ding on the neck, which I have pictured. There are a few scrtaches on the original scrtachplate from using a pick but again, nothing significant. It is fitted with new D'Addario light gauge nickel rounds (45-100). I tried flats on it and they were fun but I prefer the extra bite from the rounds. Nordstrand have stopped making these basses in the Far East, so new ones are going to be US made to order and expensive. You are very welcome to come and try it through various amps at my place in Fakenham (refreshments provided). That may not work for many and I have the original box, so can post at buyer's expense. I can meet up within about 50 miles of Fakenham. I am thinning the herd, so not looking for a trade at the moment.

I've been delaying this for some time, as I have really enjoyed owning this cabinet but the time has come to move it on. I have thrown my lot in with the LFSys Monza and owning two of them, I have 2 x 10" well covered. The specs are probably very well known on this forum and there are plenty of reviews on BC and elsewhere. The headlines are that it is a compact 2 x 10" cabinet weighing only 13 kilos (cloth grill version which this is), capable of handling 500 watts RMS and BF claim up to 800 watts clean. The cabinet has had the switch conversion so that it can operate at either 4 or 12 ohm. The full spec and current pricing can be found here on the Barefaced website: https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/10cr-bass-cabs/products/two_10?variant=12997201723450. Yep, to buy one new in this spec, with a cover, will cost you a tadge over £900! This cab has been gigged quite a lot but despite this it is pretty clean and everything works fine. There are a few marks in the Tolex, which I have photographed but none that have exposed the wood as far as I can see. The Tolex is just starting to peel on the back, as can be seen in the photographs. This is common on BF 10CR based cabs, as are problems with the feet, which are screwed directly into the thin ply. In the case of my cab, some over-enthusiastic "help" at a gig managed to dislodge one foot on the long side and bash another. This caused a little dent under one and some damage around the screw hole on the other. The downside of using 12mm ply to save weight, while screwing the feet directly into the wood, is that they are not very resistant to rough treatment. I have repaired the cab using a dowel in one case and internal 12mm ply reinforcement internally for both. I also decided that directly screwing the feet into the wood was going to lead to problems in the future, so I have used threaded captive nuts and machine screws for all four feet on the long side of the cab (see photos). They are now much more solid than they were originally and consequently more resistant to future damage. I have always used the cab in portrait mode and the feet on the bottom have not given any problems, so I have left them as they were. They are protected by the cover in any case, where as the feet on the long side are exposed in transit. While I was doing these modifications, I noticed that the screws, holding the switch and socket plate onto the cab, were also screwed directly into the ply and one of them didn't have much purchase. Again this seemed like a recipe for long term problems and possible cause of a buzz I was hearing from that area. I decided to use T-nuts and machine screws to secure the plate and replaced the gasket at the same time. It is now very secure and there is no hint of buzz. To get at the inside of the cab, to glue the ply reinforcement in place, it was necessary to remove the drivers. On reassembly, I replaced the driver mounting screws with new stainless steel Allen head machine screws. In my experience these are much more resistant to the heads getting mashed than the original pozidrive type screws. The original T-nuts were in good condition, so I left those as they were. I have priced the cab to take account of the above repairs, although in many ways I think they have actually improved on the original spec. Grab yourself a bargain at less than half the new price! I'm thinning the herd, so I am not looking for trades. You are welcome to come and try the cab (with a variety of heads) at my place in Fakenham. Tea/coffee and biscuits provided. I realise this might not work for many and I am sure I can find suitable packaging to post it at buyers expense. I will also meet up within a reasonable distance of Fakenham.

Hi Folks, My amps have obviously been breeding while my back has been turned and I have ended up with four heads! I have really got to cull the herd. First up is this nice little Warwick iPro head. It is rated at 280watts @4 ohms, 180 watts @ 8 ohms, has 3 band EQ, balanced DI out (with ground lift switch) and USB socket for direct recording. There are separate Gain and Master controls and a front mounted headphone socket. Full spec can be found here: https://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick--Products--Amplification--Warwick-WA--WA-Serie-Ampheads--Gnome-i-Pro-V2--Features.html#current_site_id. Yes, although the URL says iPro V2, it actually gives the spec of the V1. I think the main difference is that V2 is now rated at 300 watts @4 ohms. Supplied with UK kettle lead. These are really dinky little amps, while being reassuringly solid feeling. It seems loud for an amp with a 280 watt rating. I'm not sure how they do it but it seems louder than my MB LMIII 500. This has been my backup amp for gigs, as it can easily fit into a gig bag pocket. Consequently, it hasn't been used that much. I think it is pretty clean, with just a few superficial scratches on the aluminium cover. Everything works as it should and the fan is quieter than the TE Elf's, although it also comes on pretty quickly. Tone wise, I would say it is pretty HiFi sounding. It pairs really well with my BF Two10 (also up for sale), in that it is a partial antidote for the BF's vintage character. I'm thinning the herd, so not looking for a trade. I'm offering this at half the street price of the V2 head, so grab yourself a bargain! You are very welcome to come and try the amp at my place in Fakenham, although I realise for most that might be difficult. I have the original box (and manual) so can post at buyer's expense. I can also meet up within a reasonable distance of Fakenham.