Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Obrienp

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    1,128
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Obrienp

  1. Yes, QC is a bit dodgy but it makes an excellent modding platform. With a little bit of work (shielding, etc) you can get a decent bass. Just ignore the jazz pickup, it’s pretty weak and doesn’t add much, so not a priority for replacement IMO (if I remember correctly it’s not full size Jazz bridge size either, so difficult to find a direct replacement). The chunkyness is what made me move mine on but would probably suit the OP well. They do vary a bit in weight also: mine was a boat anchor but I’ve seen other reports of examples that weighed less than 8lbs.
  2. Interesting looking bass. Wonder what the bridge string spacing is? It looks like 19mm, given the standard parts bin type bridge. The only let down for me is the slab body with no contouring (as far as I can tell from the pics). Reasonable price point though.
  3. @ead I have hand issues too (after rugby and motorcycle accidents) but tend to go for the Jazz shape necks (narrow and deep-ish). Huge generalisation but a lot of shorties do tend to have quite narrow necks. There are exceptions around but I don’t think many fit your price/weight criteria. If you can find them used a JMJ Mustang might be a good one as it has a chunkier neck. The Reverend Watt Plower also but both are a bit pricey. I think there are other chunkier neck Mustangs and I am sure others can advise. The new Vintage Callan seems to have a fairly wide nut and it’s quite keenly priced.
  4. I wish I needed this. It such a good price and I’m surprised it’s still here! GLWTS.
  5. I bought a 32” Jazz neck off eBay recently, direct from China. It worked out much better than I had expected. Block inlays and binding. Frets were all good. The nut needed a little work. The heel was actually a little wider than Fender standard, so I needed to ease the neck pocket of the body I was putting it on. Also the profile was more C than D but that might suit some folks. It wasn’t sealed but was pretty well sanded, so it only needed a little prep before applying the finish. The supplier’s name was “car-mall” on eBay. It only cost about £65 all in and took about a month to arrive. Here it is in action.
  6. Good luck coming to a decision. Let us see it when you’ve got it.
  7. Matter of interest: did you find what you were looking for?
  8. Just to finish the story off, Andertons have issued me the full refund. The last comms I had from them said that their tech department was going to see if they could fix the noise problem (presumably with the last returned cab). I haven’t heard anything further, so I assume they couldn’t fix it. Bit of an indictment of Positive Grid I feel. Anyway good on Andertons and I have to say I was impressed with their after sales support.
  9. I think I may have my answer to my noob question, as the C24 has already arrived, which is amazing: less than 24 hours from placing my order. A nice little unit. Very nicely made. You wouldn’t know these are a small production item. I have had a brief play with the unit, putting it after a Battalion preamp, before my power amp and then into the LFSys Monza. I tried a P Bass (32” scale) with Tone Rider pickup and then a Guild Starfire 1 (the p pickup one) tuned down a semitone. Setting the HPF just under 40 Hz and the LPF a bit over 1KHz is interesting. It has an apparent reduction in volume, which is cured by the boost control. I’m still not sure whether I like the HPF effect but it does seem to make cabinet response clearer. The LPF is certainly doing something to get rid of the brittle overtones, at the risk of making it all sound a bit muffled. It does get rid of the huge transition I was experiencing on the Guild between the A and D strings. With the LPF engaged, I don’t feel that the top two strings are competing as much with the guitars. How that will affect the bass in the mix I’m not sure. Obviously more experimentation is needed. Also the Monza is known for having a very tight bass response already, so perhaps the HPF is having less effect at the lower end. I am guessing the HPF/LPF combination may do more for the BF Two10 that can sound pretty muddy on occasions. Also I haven’t tried my amps yet, or any effects beyond compression and drive (from the Battalion).
  10. I was thinking of the LPF in the C24.
  11. Actually your first point was very much on my mind. Both my main gigging amps are not really driving my LFSys Monza anywhere near its max of 600 watts into 8 ohms. Now as it happens 300 watts is probably more than enough for any of my gigs but I don’t really like the idea (or the sound) of these amps flat out. I could do with more clean headroom from the amps (no problem with the cab). If the HPF avoids me having to shell out on an amp that can get closer to 600 watts @ 8 ohms, all the better. Its sounds like some experimentation, on placement in the signal chain, is going to have to take place.
  12. Having tried to wade through most of this thread, I have convinced myself that it is worth ordering a HPF/LPF pedal. I’ve gone for a Sine Effect C24 (https://sineeffect.com/C24-High-Low-Pass-filter-pedal-p595346070), which seems reasonable at around £137 with postage and was available immediately. TBH, more than I have paid for a pedal in a long time but none of the usual online sources seem to carry these kinds of pedals and this is UK made. Anybody got any experience of them? I am hoping it will come with some instructions/recommendations for placement in the signal chain, as views are very mixed on this thread. My current thoughts, for what they are worth, are that it depends on what I am using. I’m thinking that when I use the my Flyrig V 2 into a power amp/desk the C24 should be after the Flyrig. Using the Mark Bass LM111 into either a LFSys Monza, or BF Two10 S: after the tuner pedal but before any other effects pedals I might use (chorus, overdrive, compressor, envelope filter). The quandary comes when considering my Blackstar U700 with the aforementioned cabs. The U700 has a bunch of built in affects, plus preamp and power amp voices. I am thinking the C24 probably needs to go into the effects loop so it is after all the above because they might be adding a whole load of unnecessary frequencies into the signal. Its probably quite clear from the above that I haven’t really got my head round this, so any advice or views would be welcome. Final noob question: will the low pass filter act like an attenuator on the LFSys Monza’s compression driver? It’s great having FRFR but sometimes I also want to dial in a bit more of a vintage feel. Both the U700 and the LM 111 are quite good at providing that old school tone when you want it but I sometimes get some additional harsh/brittle artefacts that come through the compression driver. It would be nice to be able to prevent that getting through.
  13. Thanks. I’ll be able to sleep tonight 😀. As an aside, I wish there was an after market bass bridge that came with string mutes but I guess it would make manufacturing costs too high and it would have a small market. It would beat messing around with bits of foam, or fret wraps.
  14. I’m sorry, it must be my obsession with detail but I have to ask what that second row of small cross head screws is for? How many screws does it take to hold a bridge plate on? There already seem to be 5 large cross head screws holding it on.
  15. Best and worst so far: Best: LFSys Monza, such an amazing cab. Read the reviews on here. I haven’t seen a bad one yet. Worst: Positive Grid Spark Cab. On paper sounds like a great enhancer for your Spark 40, or other Spark amp, or even a low powered multi-instrument active FRFR cab, for not much cash compared to other offerings on the market. In reality it turned out to be very noisy on idle and through the DI out. Such a shame because the bass tone was pretty good through it and it worked well for acoustic and electric guitar as well. I sent the first one back and ended up returning its replacement. I’m still waiting for the refund.
  16. Tony Edwards Guitars does rewinds: https://tonyedwardsguitars.co.uk.
  17. There are two of them in the Vintage Revo range: this solid body and a classic design semi (Supreme). Also with a mudbucker but it has a toaster pickup in the bridge position. I was very interested but noted that the Vintage website doesn’t give the dimensions of the nut. I enquired of a dealer and they measured it as 44mm. That and the 3 point bridge on the Supreme put me off. I prefer the Jazz bass style neck on the Guild Starfire models (and the bridges). If the above aren’t drawbacks for you, I think these look like great SS basses with a vintage feel and reasonably priced.
  18. I couldn’t find the EBO case on the Epi website but the SG bass case is on the Gibson site: https://www.gibson.com/en-GB/p/Hardshell-Case/ASBASSCASE-ORG/ASBASSCASE-ORG. Just short of £260! Probably worth it for that EB-3 though.
  19. I’ll be interested to see if somebody comes up with an answer for you. I don’t think there are many short scale cases around. There are some gig bags available and some folks have had success using guitar gig bags for SS bass (Gator Jaguar for instance). There seem to be hard cases for some semi-acoustic basses like the Epiphone Rumblekat and the Guild Starfire but I’ve not seen one for a solid body bass.
  20. I think the very existence of physical musical instrument shops needs to supported. I always try to buy something when I go into them. It’s a super tough market for them and they are competing with the online box shifters who don’t have the same overheads (sorry for restating the blindingly obvious).
  21. I know he was planning to go on holiday for a couple of weeks, so he might still be away. Don’t give up if you don’t get an immediate response.
  22. A compensated bridge saddle will help with the intonation and there are masses on fleaBay. Just make sure you get one that is close enough to the width and thickness of the OEM, otherwise it’s a lot of work with sandpaper to get it to fit. It needs to be snug in the slot to improve transfer of vibrations to the top. If it is an electro acoustic, with an under saddle piezo pickup, a loose saddle can cause uneven string balance amplified and it needs to be flat on the bottom to exert an even pressure on the pickup. Material wise bone or Tusq will provide better tone than the cheaper plastic ones. It’s worth the extra, especially if you change the bridge pins. Go for harder wood (rosewood or ebony), or bone/Tusq pins for the improved tone. Some people rate brass but it sounds a bit harsh to my ears.
  23. I’m getting boring but have a look at Tony Edwards Guitars https://tonyedwardsguitars.co.uk. Tony made me a short-scale to my spec with Babicz bridge and his own hand wound pickups for around the £1K mark. Now things have moved on price wise but I still think he will be very competitive and you get it to exactly what you want.
  24. It’s called the Glaven Bistro at Glandford, near Holt (and Blakeney). I think they spent a packet doing the place up, so it’s not the cheapest around but the grub looked pretty good to me. Wine is a tadge expensive because it’s all English, in fact all from Norfolk I think, as is the beer.
×
×
  • Create New...