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Everything posted by Obrienp
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Ah right. Sorry, not very helpful then. Could you try Hipshot regarding the bridge?
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Try a PM to SoniaMara on TalkBass. She works for Nordstrand and has answered other contributors’ questions on that forum. P.S. I can tell you that their answer to other owners with the dropping bridge saddle problem has been to use Loctite. Not very popular with some of the owners it has to be said. I think a replacement saddle and adjustment screw is the least they could do.
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I just cut pieces of fibreboard to size to fit the pedals I want to mount. Drill holes to take long cable ties to hold the pedals (and power supply) on: Velcro always comes unstuck from the back of pedals but you can use that if preferred; just staple it on. One cable tie will hold your average pedal. Then cover it with that non-slip perforated rubber matting (the type you put on outside wooden steps) held on with staples. That stops it from sliding around on the floor, prevents the fibreboard edges from flaking and makes it look less naff. Obviously, if you are using Velcro, then put the rubber matting on first. The resultant pedalboard is very light and really cheap to make. I have made several for different configurations of pedals.
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Yes Keith. Rush of blood to the head! The Squier Jaguar H was the proof of concept for medium scale, so that will have to go. I am still working out what else I’m going to sell to cover the Maru 😏. I will definitely bring it along to the next NBS jam. See you there.
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I hope so; I just bought an Elwood 4a off eBay that is in trans white. Complete rush of blood to the head but I had been looking for a nice medium scale and the one on eBay seemed reasonably priced. Might not arrive until the 14th though. The free postage is obviously by camel train! BTW I get the Jake and Elwood thing but shouldn’t it be Donald and Duck? After all Jake and Elwood didn’t play bass 😀.
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Just in case you want an alternative supplier, the Bass Gallery also carry Acinonyx. I got my V1 from them last year and it was marginally less than Bass Direct at the time. Mine is from the second batch and has not suffered from the issues that some of the first batch had: noise, sticking or non-functioning buttons and bridge saddles dropping. I guess they must have sorted any QC issues for the second batch. There is a very active Acininoyx thread over on TalkBass. A few people across the pond have already got fretless and the V2 versions and are giving their feedback. Might be worth checking out, if you are interested in one. For what it is worth, I love my V1 but I agree that the tonal options are not subtle: basically heavy treble roll off, full dub and the mid-scoop also seems to roll-off a lot of treble. I do like the press button, instant predictable tone change and the options work for me in conjunction with the pickup selector but won’t for everyone. The bridge pickup really works well solo: it retains plenty of bass and with the first tone roll-off produces a really nice burpey vibe. It’s really difficult to select the “all in” serial mode but worth it when you do. I would happily swap the mute button for a single button “all in”. It is also a bass that you can play for those 3 hour, Sunday afternoon pub gigs without feeling totally wrecked at the end. Perhaps this V2 is going to have a wider and more subtle tonal palette. As everything is mounted on the scratch plate, they could just flog existing owners a loaded plate to do the conversion. My favoured first variant would have been a medium scale version but I don’t even think they have thought about that one. It would probably mess up the balance as well to have a longer neck.
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Price drop: £135 ono. Also possibility of delivery. I’m selling an Affinity Precision Bass on behalf of a guitarist mate. I checked the serial number on Squier Wiki and it suggests it was made in 2000-1 at the Yako factory in Taiwan. The full spec on Squier Wiki can be seen here: http://www.squierwiki.com/Affinity-Precision-Bass. The highlights are Alder body, rosewood fingerboard, nut width 41.3mm (supposedly, 40.4mm according to my gauge), C shape neck. It weighs 3.7 Kg (a tadge over 8lbs 2oz) and it balances nicely. The pickup is really pretty good; not red hot but not as feeble as recent Squier Ps I have tried. It produces a satisfying P bass thump and growl. The action is not bad either and I think could be lowered a bit more. I didn’t play with the set up too much, because I am sure the new owner will want to change the strings (which I think are the original 45-105) and adjust the intonation. I lifted the pickguard out of curiosity and was surprised to find full size pots and pretty neat soldering (see pic). No shielding though, so there is a bit of hum when you let go of the strings. This a 23 year old guitar and has a few dings on the body, which I have tried to capture in the photos and a number of light scratches. A few dings around the bottom edge near the jack socket have been touched up by a previous owner. Surprisingly the back is pretty devoid of buckle rash. There are signs that the poly finish may be on its way to cracking but it hasn’t happened yet. There are some light marks on the back of the neck, which I have tried to photograph unsuccessfully. Frets show little wear and there are no significant marks in the fretboard. TBH I get the feeling it hasn’t been played that much: certainly not since my mate has owned it. I gave it a little clean and oiled the board with lemon oil. The pickguard has a few hairline cracks on the edges and has obviously had stickers on it. Plus a previous owner obviously used a pick. I started cleaning the residual glue off but ran out of lighter fluid. TBH I would change it for a tort or black guard but it serves its function OK. I have never got on with full scale P basses before and have moved pretty much to short scale these days but I found this example pretty comfortable and easy to play. I guess that is partly because the nut is a little narrower than some, while not being as narrow as a Jazz. The C neck profile is quite shallow as well. It is also lighter than some of my shorties and balances nicely on a strap, or when seated. It would make an excellent modding platform as well. For not very much cash it could be made into a very nice bass: I am thinking Fender high mass bridge, Tone Rider or similar pickup, Wilkinson lightweight tuners, replacement pickguard of your choosing, decent strings, perhaps a bit of mild distressing for that road worn look; job done. In fact please buy it, or I might be tempted to buy it myself! It comes with a very nice but dusty Warwick Rockbag gig bag, with pretty thick padding (25mm according to my gauge). The current equivalent costs about £50. You are welcome to try and buy in Fakenham, Norfolk. I am sure we can find a box to courier it at buyers expense. I can also meet up within about 30 miles or so for a handover. We can accept payment by PayPal, bank transfer, or cash on collection/handover.
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The Short Scale Bass Appreciation Society!
Obrienp replied to Baloney Balderdash's topic in Bass Guitars
I’m repeating myself but I would go for two stacked vol/tone pots on the HB myself. Yes a little pricey but it will give a lot of flexibility. Of course, an alternative would be a stacked vol/tone and a blend pot. -
A recent acquisition means I need to sell some gear and this lovely little amp is one that has to go. It has been used in conjunction with a Barefaced One10 (which I am also selling), to make a fantastic little, lightweight but surprisingly loud rig for practice, rehearsals and small gigs. The full spec can be found here on the Warwick website: https://shop.warwick.de/en/amplifier/bass-amps/bass-amp-heads/23458/warwick-gnome-pocket-bass-amp-head-200-watt. The highlights are: Class D; 200 watts @4 ohms, 130 watts @ 8 ohms; 3 band EQ +/-15 db cut/boost; gain and master vol; 1/4 headphone socket; DI out with switchable ground lift. All in a package that will fit in the back pocket of your jeans and easily into the pocket of most gig bags. It is also reassuringly solidly built, with a metal chassis and brushed aluminium cladding top and bottom. All this while only weighing just under a kilo. I am told that the fan is quieter than the TE Elf’s. I haven’t had an opportunity to do an A/B but I can say that I don’t find the Gnome’s fan intrusive while playing. I have used this for practice at home, band rehearsals and 2 gigs. Apart from that, it has been my backup amp for my full scale rig. It is in excellent condition IMO. There is one tiny, hardly visible scratch on the aluminium top. Apart from that I can’t find any blemishes. Everything functions as expected. You are welcome to try and buy in Fakenham, Norfolk (£85). I can meet up for a handover within about 50 miles, or post to the UK only for £90 all in. If you are interested in buying both this amp and my BF One10 cab I can do a package deal. PM me to discuss. Payment via bank transfer, PayPal, or cash on collection/handover. I am not looking for trades on this one.
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-AF5B-40FE-8F2C-E5C9B3A9760A.heicA recent acquisition means that I have to part with this excellent Barefaced speaker cabinet. As you are looking, you probably know the capabilities of these amazing cabs but the basics are: 10" driver; 250 watts @ 8 ohms (up to 500 clean); weight 7.5 kg; max SPL 119DB; only 15" (38CM) high. The full specs and general write up can be found here: https://barefacedbass.com/product-range/one10.htm. This cabinet has been used for practice in my studio, the odd band rehearsal and two gigs only. It is in excellent condition IMO. I can only find one small ding that has not gone through the tolex. I noticed one small white mark in one of the photos and a dark patch which I will clean off before handover. There are a couple of light abrasions on the metal corner plates where they have done their job. The tolex has not peeled, unlike many other examples but you can see the join between the sheets of tolex in some places: I don't know whether this is the early signs but so far, so good. It has never been subjected to anything like 250 watts, as I have used it with a Warwick Gnome running at no more than 1/4 volume (0.25 x 130 watts @ 8 ohms). Incidentally I am selling that as well if you are interested (they make an excellent and powerful little rig together). The One10 is plenty loud enough at small amp volumes due to its high sensitivity. The Roqsolid cover is the foam padded type and has done its job well. It is a little dusty in places but there are no rips, or pulls and the seams are all intact. The current price of the One10 is £449 and the lead time is 4-6 weeks. The Roqsolid cover costs £61 posted and takes about 3 weeks. Save yourself 40% off the new price and get them without having to wait over a month. You are welcome to try and buy in Fakenham, Norfolk. I can meet up within about 50 miles for a handover. I have the original box and can post/courier at buyers expense to the UK only. As an illustration, Parcel Force express24 would be about £20 to UK mainland with full insurance. Other couriers would be a bit more I suspect. That would be according to your preference. If you are interested in buying both the One10 and Gnome, I can do a package deal discount. PM me to discuss. I can accept a bank transfer, PayPal, or cash on collection/handover. I am not looking for trades on this. Thanks for looking.
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Yes, I’m going to take it easy, despite what Alex advises. I am hoping lock washers, or Loctite will make up for less torque. I’ll post the results when I have road tested my fix for a while.
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I’ve had an email exchange with Alex at BF and he said he wasn’t aware of woofers coming loose. If it was happening it was rare, so I guess they are still using the same fixings. He said to really put a lot of torque on the retaining bolts, making sure to use a good PZ2 screwdriver (they use torque drivers at the factory). I asked why they didn’t use Allen bolts and he said they had looked into it but it cost a lot more and slowed down assembly speed. He didn’t comment on my suggestion to use lock washers, or Loctite. He also said that they could sell me replacement fixings, if the ones on my cab are worn. I think I might look into replacing the bolts with stainless Allen bolts and using a drop of Loctite for good measure.
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@DGBassInteresting. I wonder if this is a general BF issue, or just with a particular series/build time. Unfortunately, the serial number is missing from my Two10, because it was converted to an S (4-12 ohm switch) at some stage, so I can’t tell if it was made around the same time as your cab. I might contact BF to find out if they came up with a fix. I’m thinking spring washers, or some kind of Nyloc captive nut.
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I had terrible farting noises at certain frequencies ( mostly B on the E string) from my BF Two10 shortly after I bought it secondhand. Thought I had been sold a pup but my local luthier/amp technician helped me track it down to a loose mounting bolt on one of the speakers. It had worked its way so far loose that the captive nut had come free from the back of the baffle board and when I turned up the volume, the rim of the speaker was vibrating against the board, making a terrible farting noise. We had to remove the speaker and relocate the loose captive nut on the board (fortunately it hadn’t chewed up the wood yet). We then refitted it and made sure all the bolts on both speakers were nice and tight. Quite a few of them were quite loose. It now sounds absolutely fine. I now tighten the nuts every couple of months to make sure it doesn’t happen again. I don’t know whether this is a specific BF issue: they mount the speakers from the front, rather than the back of the board but the retaining bolts do seem to loosen quite quickly. When I can raise the energy, I’m going to take each bolt out in turn and put Loctite on when I refit them.
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That’s really ingenious! Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, being a bit impulsive, I’ve already pulled the trigger on a combo, still I can always return it, if it is not a significant improvement.
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Thank you for the explanation. I did play with the EQ to try and resolve the perceived tonal change but without much success. Good to know what is going on. I also experimented with my other cabs: a BF Two10 and an Orange OBC112. The effect on the tone was similar with the Two10 but not as extreme with the OBC112, which is what drew me to conclude the port position had something to do with the perceived tonal changes on a stand. Just shows that knowing the theory can be more use than trial and error!
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Well, I’ve given the Markbass Tilt Stand a couple of tries and I have decided it’s not working for me and the BF One10. It put the cab in a great wedge monitor style position but all coupling between the cab and the floor was lost. This seemed to get rid of a large chunk of bass and make the mids very prominent. I think this would be less of a problem with a front ported cab but the One10 has the port on the bottom in portrait mode, so it just vented into the air rather than deflecting off the floor. I can see the tilt stand would work very well with Markbass cabs and combos in that fuzzy felt/carpet stuff, as they are front ported. Anyway, the Tilt Stand will be listed shortly, if anybody is interested. Ditto the One10, as I have decided to go for a smallish tilt combo. I’ll miss the One10 but needs must. Next IEMs!
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Mensinger Cazpar 5 - any decent offer it’s yours. - *SOLD*
Obrienp replied to Black Coffee's topic in Basses For Sale
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Looks like a much more expensive take on the Ibanez Mezzo. Is it that much better I wonder? They are advertising them on the Bass Direct website in 4 and 5 string versions. Anybody got the spare cash to find out how good they are? 😀
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Certainly worth a go. Thanks for the idea.
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I’m using a Warwick Gnome with this set up, so even more danger of it sliding off. It’s going to have to go on the ground but in cramped playing conditions there is a real danger of it getting trampled on. I have visions of a jack plug breaking off in the socket (I have had that happen with a pedal before), or worse the speaker socket on the amp getting mangled. I even considered an Ashdown Ant for the pedal board but over £300, for an amp with the same capabilities as my Warwick that cost half the price, seems excessive. WRT your drink: one of those drink holders that clips on a mic stand?
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Thanks for the suggestion. Similar stands are available in the UK. I went down the MB tilt stand route because it was half the price and folds flat but I may yet have to put out the extra cash on one like you suggest.
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The Markbass Tilt Stand arrived today. A quick try with the BF One10 at low volume suggested it might just work. I am not sure it would with a heavier cabinet, at high volume, without the Velcro attaching to the cabinet but the One10 is so light that it doesn’t seem to want to slide 🤞. It rests on the back edge of the cabinet, so I will put the whole assembly on my Auralex isolation pad, to stop any rattles. There is no way the amp head will stay on top of the cabinet given the angle of tilt. Trouble is it looks very vulnerable on the floor, especially if we are playing in cramped conditions. Perhaps I will have to put the head on my peddle board (Warwick Gnome) and use a long speaker lead: does that cause drop off, or latency issues? Next task is to sort IEMs 😳.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll give that a go if the Markbass stand doesn’t do the job.