badgerific

Just had a look on the board and realised one of my caps was in the wrong place. Moved it down and now it works correctly.

[quote name='escholl' post='883483' date='Jul 1 2010, 10:10 PM']The switch turns off power to the LED, not the board itself. The LED had no effect on the board itself, or at least it's not supposed to. The board power is always on, regardless of what the LED does. Hence, the LED is no protection again any reverse voltage.[/quote] Ahh right, I thought it grounded all the power when the pedal is not engaged. Next time I do a build on stripboard I will make sure I add some reverse voltage protection. Cheers for explaining that Finished my fuzz factory build, does all the crazy squealing business only problem is the volume pot does nothing, which is quite important because this thing is LOUD, I've never encountered a problem like this so any tips on solving it?

[quote name='escholl' post='883421' date='Jul 1 2010, 09:14 PM']Not really, as the power for the board doesn't go through the LED on it's way to powering the board. Also, the LED is oriented to conduct normally when the input DC is correct. The protection diode is placed with the cathode connected to normal +V, not ground, and in parallel with the rest of the circuit -- this way if a reverse DC voltage is connected to the input, the diode will clamp the voltage down to about 0.6 volts, essentially shorting the power supply but protecting the board. The theory is that you will notice pretty quickly, and unplug the power supply if this happens. The power supply would be fine by the way, provided you don't take ages to notice it's not working.[/quote] The way I have it wired the power goes through the led and then to the switch like in this diagram: So I thought the LED should sort out that problem for me, I'm really confused at why it wouldn't.

[quote name='escholl' post='882600' date='Jul 1 2010, 12:01 AM']If it it what I'm thinking of, it's just a diode wired across the input DC, as a form of reverse voltage protection. An input cap is sometime wired across the DC as well, in case the incoming supply is not very smooth, but to be honest I doubt you'd need that really. But reverse voltage protection is always a good idea.[/quote] I figured that was what it's for. Surely the LED should do the same job as it's wired input dc to led then to the board.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='881793' date='Jun 30 2010, 12:04 PM']Had some problems with my home-etched pcb version, so I reverted to another veroboard build based on the bass-tweaked schematic from Bobbass4k, got it working last night no prob (except my Ge tranny alignment was out by 180º!) It's a bit of a beast - does all the wild oscillating Muse squealy stuff, definitely bass-heavy (just been playing guitar thru it so far ) but as a relatively simple build its a great project. badgerific - your circuit lacks the diode and cap - presumably for mains adapter, is this just battery-only design? The rest looks pretty similar, though people have to be careful about snipping the traces underneath R2, R3 and R5 resistors, they are not very clear from the diagram.[/quote] I didn't think I'd need the extra cap and diode. I was also using this diagram for a help with the off board stuff and it doesn't have a diode or extra cap.  I've made sure I clipped the track under the resistors, it should be made a bit clearer though.

Stuff for my fuzz factory perf build has arrived today so I can get cracking now. I'm using this diagram to build mine Al: I think it's been verified on DIYstomboxes.

Thanks, I think my next project will be building a fuzz factory on stripboard and then a simple valve booster pedal. This is the most addictive hobby I've ever done.

Gut shot and a close up of the finnish.

[quote name='The Twickerman' post='875676' date='Jun 23 2010, 06:09 PM']Excellent. What's it a clone of?[/quote] It doesn't say on the BYOC site, I don't think it's a proper clone of anything really, I could be wrong though. Anyone know where I could get a bend piece of metal like the one above the tube on this pedal: [url="http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZCoEItQcgqzm/Tube-Distortion-Guitar-Effect-Pedal-Value-OTD-100VAL-.jpg"]http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZCoEI...OTD-100VAL-.jpg[/url] I want one for a future tube boost pedal build so I don't end up stomping my tube off.

Just finished my third build, a BYOC digi delay with ping pong. Sounds great, almost analogue sounding with quite dark repeats. Only thing I would like to do is have it so the repeats continue even if I turn the pedal off but I don't know enough about this stuff yet and couldn't find a mod for it on the BYOC forum so I might have to wait a while for that. Not a great pic cos of the light off the screen but here it is:

Just posting this to say that Dan is a great guy to deal with.

[quote name='BT!' post='860961' date='Jun 8 2010, 01:29 PM']we played with john q public a while back and they just struck me as a cheesy covers band. also wernt that social to the extent their bass player had to get the soundguy to ask he could borrow my bass head rather than do it himself. but thats just my experience with them[/quote] I quite enjoy their music and have gone to see them a few times starting when they where called May Contain Nuts, they seem to put on a good show even to a small crowd which I think is always good. I've spoken to their new guitarist and their vocalist and they we're both really friendly. I'm surprised the bass player didn't ask you to borrow your head personally.

I built this kit for my friend: [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html[/url] He said he tried put a battery in and the battery got really hot really quickly. Any idea's what's wrong? It works from a power supply.

Might also come down to cardiff to see you guys, I've heard of you guys but haven't had a chance to see you. John Q Public are awesome as well so should be a good night.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='857463' date='Jun 4 2010, 05:10 PM']solder 2 wires to where one of the diodes should go, then add ytour togle switch to the 2 wires, adding 2 more diodes direct to the switch, hen u can have the assym clipping[/quote] Cool, I might do this later if my friend wants it then. Might not be possible though because it's going to be super cramped in the case as it is, thanks for the help.

Quick question, I'm quite new to this, I produced a MXR distortion for part of my electrical engineering module in university and now I'm building this kit [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p2511_The-SuperOver---Overdrive-kit.html"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html[/url] which is very similar to this kit. [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1618_The-Screamer---Overdrive-kit.html"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html[/url] Just wondering if I could add the toggle switch shown in the screamer kit to the super over kit to make it symmetrical/asymmetrical? EDIT: After looking at my board, i dont think it would be possible because c3 is empty, would it be ok if just put a jumper across it or would i need the capacitor with the value shown in the screamer kit.

Where to did you get them pressed?