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Everything posted by Paul S
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Appreciate the input, chaps. So just to confirm : EH - do you mean [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/equipment-wire-7-0.2-6192"]this smaller gauge[/url]? And Mr F do you mean [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-core-lapped-screen-120"]this stuff?[/url]
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Superb bit of kit. My back loves it, for sure, but also my ears. With the TC Classic 450 it kind of sounds like that whole trace rig all together but - and here's the best bit - weighs 12kgs + 4kg for the head. No regrets. Well, not many, but they are more to do with image and style, rather than sound - I did like the whole Trace Elliot thing. But the portability makes up for that many times over. Did the shielding fix the jag's hum?
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Cheers James. How are you getting on with the Jag/Trace rig? I sort of miss it.
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Ta. [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/equipment-wire-16-0.2-6197"]So this type of stuff?[/url]
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When it comes to wiring various components inside a guitar together - pickups, pots, jack sockets etc - are there optimum gauge wires that should be used for each? Does it matter? For example - could I strip out wire from domestic wiring flexes and use that - say an old extension lead? Or does it have to be specific stuff? I have read that is is a good idea to use shielded cable for jacks, for example, but why? I am sure the answers are obvious but I can't find anything at this low knowledge level! Ta.
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cheaper no name pickups good or a waste of money
Paul S replied to ibanez_ownz's topic in Repairs and Technical
Kent Armstrong are about £30 a pop and are good. -
DR Strings - Problems and no response from them in over 2 months.
Paul S replied to xilddx's topic in General Discussion
[quote name='oldslapper' post='1342762' date='Aug 17 2011, 09:33 AM']Paul, which USA seller do you use? Thanks, John[/quote] Hi John I missed your question, sorry! Guitarsuperhero. I just had a look and he actually isn't listing them at the moment. -
OK, some pics. Here is the troublesome pot. It has M20KΩG and then 16C written on it. [attachment=87271:pot1.jpg] Here are the others: I think this is the volume? It has the same thing written on the side of the pot. [attachment=87272:pot2.jpg] The other cut/boost - it is marked M20KΩA 10C [attachment=87273:pot3.jpg] The blend - I don't know much about guitar electronics but this looks a right old mess to me [attachment=87274:pot4a.jpg] [attachment=87275:pot4b.jpg] And for good measure the jack as well. [attachment=87276:jack.jpg] Ok. 20K pots - is this unusual? And would any make of pot fit into the pcb? Any advice or pointers appreciated. Ta.
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I think I will. Would you, or anyone, have any particular recommendation as to type/where to buy etc? It is going through a wood body rather than a scratch plate, so needs a longer shaft.
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Thanks - I'll have a look at those. In the meanwhile I was in ASDA and bought the cheaper Sony ones for £9 - they are for sure a step up over the others i have been using so thanks Dubs.
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Hi ABM and thank you for your reply. Yes - all wires are attached, some messily it has to be said - I have only recently got it and it came with the fault. The full story - when I first got it I sent it off to my usual tech guy for a set up and to see if he could work out what the problem was. He said he thought the pot was broken but wasn't sure, adding that it might be a quicker and cheaper fix to stick a new preamp in there, having already done this for me with my SGC Nanyo Bass Collection and a new Artec preamp. I am thinking he didn't fancy doing the job or it was beyond his knowledge. My original question was [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=150461"]here[/url], which kind of explains how I got to this post. Of course the easiest thing to do would be to take it to someone who knows exactly what to look for but I am getting to the stage with this where I am reluctant to throw much more money at it. If all it takes is putting a new pot in place I feel confident enough to do this myself now that I have practiced my soldering skills a bit recently. I have the back off at the moment and am about to take all the guts out of it to see more clearly what is going on but, with a basic lack of understanding about how all the bits fit together etc, I am fumbling about in the dark a bit. Any pointers would be immensely helpful.
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DR Strings - Problems and no response from them in over 2 months.
Paul S replied to xilddx's topic in General Discussion
I switched to DR Black Beauties about a year ago and have bought around 5 or 6 sets since to fit on all my basses. I get them from an eBay seller in the USA and they work out at pretty well bang on £20 a set including postage. They usually take about a week and I haven't had a single problem with the strings or HMC&E. I think they are brilliant. -
I owned one for a little while - it was extremely good and excellent vfm. Got rid of it as, at the time, I didn't see a use for a fretless other than spare room noodling. Having said that, if the day came when I was looking for a fretless bass but didn't want to spend a lot of money, I'd get a second hand fretless SGC Nanyo Bass Collection - same sort of money but a much better quality instrument IMO. I guess it is down to looks etc at the end of it.
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OK, thanks. Explains the radio silence, anyway - I thought it was something I said. Well, I suppose it was, really
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Prett please help? You could save unnecessary torture of a poor Fender?
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Agressive bassist looking for Glam rock punk band
Paul S replied to Charlie1990's topic in Musicians Wanted
it's alright..... he's from Barcelona. Basil Fawlty rules -
In another topic, probably in the wrong forum, I was asking about my Fender Precision Lyte pre-amp. I've since been thinking and now wonder if the problem might not be the pre-amp at all - can someone please help? One of the knobs doesn't work. I think it is the bass boost/cut but it is hard to actually say which when only one of them is working. But a thought struck me this morning - that the fact one of the knobs works just fine and the bass plays and sounds ok - does this indicate that there is nothing wrong with the pre-amp but just with the pot?
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I asked a very similar question recently. I was told the issue with connecting 2+ pedals to one power supply is whether the adapter has sufficient output. Mine didn't so I bought a new Boss one that did, together with a 5x way daisy chain all from the same eBay shop that cost about 311 all in incl. postage. There is sufficient 'headroom' (does that same expression still apply? Spare output?) in the adapter for me to add more pedals, which I have.
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I was thinking this morning... it is only one of the boost/cut knobs that doesn't work (I think it is the bass boost/cut but not sure as there is only the one to compare). Does this mean that the preamp itself is ok and I only need to replace the pot? I haven't opened it up to have a look but, if so, would there be a mark on the pot that would indicate what type/value it is? And how critical is this? I have the pot taken from the original SGC Nanyo electrics knocking about, for example - I am guessing this might do the job? If not, what would I need and where would I get one from? This all sounds rather vague - up until now I've always sent my stuff off to a local guy. But I've recently been fiddling about with a soldering iron and now feel confident to do this replacement myself, but have no actual understanding of the bits and pieces involved!
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He just upped his start price to £150 from £50. I imagine 9/10 of the people watching will be dropping out now, including me.
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Lightweight or D class amp that sounds like a Valve amp
Paul S replied to thebassman's topic in Amps and Cabs
I chose the TC Classic 450 over the Orange Terror Bass as I thought it was more flexible. Not only can you get the tube sound (which IMO was easier to dial in something useable in the Classic 450) but you can turn it down and it is a lot cleaner. But it is all so subjective! But another contender - out of my price range at the time - would possibly be the Little Mark Tube? -
Putting this on here on behalf of my brother-in-law. Here´s what Gretsch say on their website: "The Gretsch® G5566 JetTM Double Neck combines a standard guitar and a baritone guitar in one single- cutaway solid-body instrument. Features include bound top, maple necks with rosewood fingerboards (24.75" guitar scale length; 29.75" baritone scale length), dual mini-humbucking pickups (baritone) and dual chrome-covered humbucking pickups (guitar), three-position pickup switch for each instrument, two- position neck selection switching, dual Adjusto-MaticTM bridges, silver-sparkle finish, and B60 (baritone) and B50 (guitar) Bigsby®-licensed vibrato tailpieces. ($1,600.00)" It is pretty well un-played, bought on a whim. I don't even think it has been out of his house! he is asking £[s]450 -[/s] [s]£400 [/s] [s]just £375![/s] - NOW ANY SERIOUS OFFER CONSIDERED. No case so collection only from Wanstead E11 or a meet up for cost of fuel. PM me for further details if interested. [attachment=86970:G5566_002.jpg] [attachment=86971:G5566_003.jpg] [attachment=86977:G5566_015.jpg] [attachment=86976:G5566_011.jpg] [attachment=86975:G5566_009.jpg] [attachment=86974:G5566_008.jpg] [attachment=86973:G5566_007.jpg] [attachment=86972:G5566_006.jpg] [attachment=86969:G5566_001.jpg] [attachment=86978:G5566_017.jpg]