Count Bassy

If it's the jack socket on your bass then it is an OUTPUT SOCKET !!!!!!!! And yes replacing it is probably the best thing, although twisting a Scotchbrite down it might help temporarily (removing the Scotchbrite before inserting the Jack plug!!!)

I would have thought that, if anything, increasing the non-speaking but stretchable length of the string would tend to increase the compliance (perceived as reduced tension), but I can't think that an extra few mm will make a significant difference either way.

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1398289330' post='2432645'] It is a waste of time anyway *flamesuit on*. Most modders don't bother to differentiate between electromagnetic interference (EMI) and electrostatic interference (ESI). Pickups work great for picking up EMI, because the main constituent part is about 1 km of copper wire. Humbuckers and dummy coils work to cancel out the EMI picked up by a single coil pickup. Shielding a guitar won't do anything to cancel out EMI. If you shield the pickup cavities, you effectively create a metal box without a lid. If it was a fully enclosed box it would become a Faraday cage and then it would block out EMI (but then your pickup wouldn't work). EMI can be reduced a great deal if you have very clean power in your house/studio/venue. EMI will be bad if your house has old wiring, you use a CRT monitor, you use dimmer switches, you have fluorescent lights or an electric motor toiling away in the vicinity. I only dislike shielding because it has been drummed into the heads of novice builders and modders as a must-do hack. The problem is that bad shielding acts as an ESI enhancer, not an ESI reducer. Furthermore, shielding can kill a lot of high end from your signal if done badly. My best advice is to use shielded cable within your guitar. There are some places (the run from the tab on your volume pot back up to the body of the pot where the shield is soldered on) that will be exposed. You may also have problems converting two-cable pickups into shield + hot cable pickups. Having said that, twisted pair wiring will also cut down on ESI a good deal. [/quote] Um, well it acts as a Faraday cage, except that you don't screen in front of the pickups, so you keep out the hum from say 324 degrees round the back up of the pickup, while letting in a small amount of hum, but a lot of signal, from the 36 degrees at the front. This should (and, in my experience, does), greatly improve the signal to noise ratio. Also the presence of an earthed surface even when not fully enclosed will have some effect because the electromagnetic wave's phase is reversed on reflection so that, particularly at low frequencies (e.g. 50Hz), the incoming and reflected waves tend to cancel out. I guess this might be why some of the cheap skates reckon they can get away with a sheet of aluminium on the back of the scratch plate, although they might also be counting on the player's body to provide some screening from the rear. You wouldn't normally want to be screening around the sides of the pickup itself as this might introduce enough capacitance to affect the tone (although you might like the affect). In my experience a very useful enhancement. Certainly not a hack.

3.43 Ohms. EDIT: Just realised that there are two of these threads going & I was beaten to it in the other one.

[quote name='Philip_' timestamp='1398115236' post='2430693'] strap locks have always seemed like a woefully overpriced product to me. some of them are 30 quid which is ridiculous. [/quote] You was done! .... but even at that price they will last a lot longer than a set of strings for the same money.

Good for her!! It's a cracking song and the crowds love it. Spot on.

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1398113780' post='2430656'] Some times it works though, I went into the music shop in dorchester, as I had an indie guitar and its pickup switch was missing and they have a lot of indies (I didn't get it there). I asked if they had switch ends, they didn't but they guy went off to search for something that would work, and eventually found one that worked from the back of the store and charged practically nothing for it. Some stores really do go the extra mile. [/quote] I think I was in that shop a few years ago, on holiday. Great shop.

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1397408153' post='2423634'] Conductive metal tape does the job. Even though it has been mentioned already I can't emphasize enough how important it is to get stuff with CONDUCTIVE adhesive. If you don't your efforts will be useless. [/quote] "useless" is putting it a bit strong (provided that each section is earthed), but the conductive glue certainly helps. Even so I tend to put a few spots of solder on the joins! As someone has said, copper is technically better than aluminium (about twice as conductive), but also has the advantage that it is easily soldered. Personally I wouldn't bother doing it unless you were do the whole cavity as well, it will be far more effective than just doing the scratch plate. Take the cavity screening slightly over the top edge, and make the screen on the back of the scratch-plate overlap it so you get near continuous contact along the join. Did it on my son's Strat and it transformed it.

Metal Dunlop ones here. Never had a failure, very quick to engage and release, no separate rubber bits to drop on the floor. The fact that you have to push the button in the middle while pulling the whole thing to take it off means that it's never come off when I didn't want it to.

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1397973856' post='2429048'] Yup [url="http://www.pmtonline.co.uk/bass/"]http://www.pmtonline.co.uk/bass/[/url] The guys in Northampton aint too bad, but they suffer a bit from the 'oh you want a bass let me slap the f#ck out of it for 5 mins first' disease, which can be mildly annoying [/quote] Better than the PMT women who want to slap the f*** out of [i]you[/i] for 5 minutes!!

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1396865615' post='2418021'] Yes, on my replacement cover the handle holes are in exactly the right place. I don't think they could be in the centre of the cab as there is internal structure preventing it, [/quote] Plus you really want the handle to be directly above the centre of gravity, which is not necessarily the same as the physical centre.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1396289765' post='2411928'] Contact them to let them know what the problem is and I'm pretty sure they'll do their utmost to put it right. [/quote] Yes to this. Don't go in all guns blazing - you won't need to.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1396645374' post='2416116'] The same bass is for sale under the same user name, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/233459-three-basses-for-sale-2-fender-jazz-1-ibanez/"]right here[/url] on Basschat, so we are talking about a fellow member here. Just sayin'. [/quote] So are we expected to let it pass because of that? If the Basschat community thinks he's asking too much then I'd have thought he'd want to know. If he wasn't a bass chatter I'd be saying that the seller was hoping for someone to come along on E-bay who didn't know any better. [size=4](Sorry seller, but that is what I'd think).[/size]

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1396726287' post='2416875'] they're only poxy bits of wood at the end of the day. [/quote] One for the Basschat quotes thread I think.

I have "OMER" (€20) from Myriad software (www.myriad-online.com), for which you also need to have one of their other products, Melody Assistant (€30), or Harmony Assistant (€70). How well it works depends very much on the quality and complexity of the original, and how good your scanner is. Free trial versions (with limited printing capabilities) are available from their web site. Myriads own brief description: OMeR converts a printed musical score in a music file you can hear, modify and print with Melody Assistant or Harmony Assistant. If you often copy printed scores under Melody Assistant or Harmony Assistant, and you own a scanner; OMeR will greatly ease your job. OMeR will drive your scanner, collect one or several pages and analyze them to generate a musical document useable directly under Melody or Harmony.

[quote name='xilddx' timestamp='1396626275' post='2415834'] I thought this one had died out after doing the rounds last year. It's not a good analogy and his grammar is a bit crap, but a lot of people liked it. [/quote] I thought it was quite a good analogy, though I agree about the grammar.

[quote name='Weststarx' timestamp='1396537012' post='2414827'] Ah I see, my apologies... [/quote] No need to apologise - thanks for taking the time to respond!

[quote name='vmaxblues' timestamp='1396532244' post='2414738'] Gramma pad helps [/quote] Strangely enough I have one of these (the great Gramma) on the way, but I bought that more with wooden floors/stages in mind. Will this help with room boom even if its sat on carpet on top of a concrete (ground) floor? If so then great!.

[quote name='Weststarx' timestamp='1396531734' post='2414729'] I remember reading somewhere about sound proofing, for Guitars its generally easy, but the low frequency of a bass however travels through walls considerably more - Which is why you only really hear the bass player when you go to the toilet at a gig. (I had to tell my girlfriend to go do this once becuase she didnt know what I was actually playing ) I would just try and add as much thickness to those walls as possible or turn down. [/quote] Noise getting out of the room is not a problem - its pretty good at that. Its the boominess inside that I need to sort out.

While I think that E-bay fees are way to high I do sympathise with them on this. People use to take the piss- t[size=4]here used to be (and still is it seems) a place 'in Portsmouth' that would sell a bit of stage lighting for say £70, with £400 P & P.[/size]

I have a practice room built into the back of our garage which generally works really well. The room has 3 brick walls, one staggered stud wall with double plaster board & Green-Glue, concrete ceiling and a carpeted concrete floor. Shape wise it's pretty much like a single garage (slightly smaller) This is pretty effective at stopping noise getting out, and everything sounds pretty good if we've got the whole band in there, but if in there on my own or just with my wife the bass sounds boomy/boxy, and playing with the EQ doesn't seem to help much. All I've done in terms of sound control inside the room is to have a few bits of left over carpets hanging on the wall (which seems to work reasonably well for vocals and guitar), and a 600 x 1200 slab of rockwool stood in a corner. I know you can get proper foam bass traps to go in, but these are quite expensive, so: Does anybody have any idea how many (as yet unspecified) 'bass traps' might be needed to make serious improvement. Has anyone made their own bass traps, and how cheap & effective were they? Perhaps I should pay 3 or 4 unemployed people to come in and just stand around! Many thanks in advance. Clive.

I've been in a similar position with a singer. She was way too quiet, and was always moaning about her sound and feedback. Claimed to know nothing about it technically, but when we suggested "have you thought about a better mic" (she had a very cheap one), or "could you sing a bit louder", or "could you get closer to the Mic"? she always responded "Oh no, its not that, it must be the PA". It wasn't the PA becauue anyone else sounded fine through it. Band split in the end.

Mic technique, singing technique, and some mics definitely feed back sooner than others. Has she considered/had singer coaching to bring her strength and tone up? [size=4]I am not a great singer by any means, but am having some lessons from a professional singer and it has transformed my tone (volume was never a problem!). Larynx, soft pallet, tongue and jaw positions all help to get the sound. It's been quite an eye opener for me![/size]

Very happy with my Status half rounds!

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1395246100' post='2400177'] I so want to like the latest crop of micro heads, and my back would love me for doing so, but somehow the Class D stuff just doesn't have the heft of a big power transformer. I don't think this is particularly a transistor vs valve thing, I think its a choice of power supply thing. As to whether an audience can hear/discern/be bothered by the difference is of little import, I can hear/feel it and it doesn't work for me. There are some 'modern' amps that have heft (my SWR for one, and others include the Boogie M-Pulse and Walkabout heads, the Aguilar AG500 etc) but they are not in themselves lightweight heads. [/quote] I don't think that there's anything inherent in class D or their power supplies to stop it having the grunt. Whether the designers cut corners on the specs to keep the costs down however, is a different matter. I believe that with a transformer supply you can overload it briefly without any dire consequences. The DC voltage will drop but the transformer will deliver a bit extra current to recharge the cappies, with out instantly blowing up. I think that transistors are less tolerant. You might therefore spec a 10 amp transformer system knowing that it will give you more for short bursts, where as a 10 amp switch mode supply (or indeed) switch mode output stage will not! - unless it's been specifically designed to do so. Having said that it might all be bullshit! Hey - I can say 'Bullshit' (and 'twat').