Count Bassy

I have various basses with two pickups, Three have a master volume, a balance and common controls (or two), but my most recent, a Westone quantum has a volume for each pickup and a common tone pot. My opinion at this stage is 'why would anyone want to have separate volumes for each pickup', rather than master volume and a blend. As far as I can see having two volume controls just makes it difficult to adjust your volume without altering your tone, but I guess it must have some advantage or no one would do it that way? I'm thinking of changing the Quantum to a Vol-Balance configuration - should I do do it or not?. All thoughts and comments gratefully received.

[quote name='rmorris' post='327185' date='Nov 11 2008, 11:26 PM']I'm sure I would be saying that if I were an advocate for a company who's product had been destroyed but shouldn't we be on the side of the musician - experienced or inexperienced - here ?[/quote] I don't want to get into a protracted discussion over this, but I just wanted to make it clear that I don't own or use any pedals, and don't own or use anything made by Behringer. I'm not sticking up for Behringer specifically, or for manufacturers in general, but for the principle that if you don't use equipment according to the instructions (eg connecting the wrong power supply) then it might get damaged or destroyed. While manufacturers could improve their designs to make things more tolerant it is ultimately up to the user to take responsibilty and ensure that it is used correctly. Perhaps they should print a warning on each pedal saying "Warning: Conecting the wrong power supply might destroy this unit", but this is rather remeniscent of the ridiculous "warning: contents may be hot" on the coffee cups.

OTHER: Fender Urge Mk1 (Mex), Fender Urge Mk1 (US), Westone Quantum, Ibanez GWB35, Thorne MK1.

[quote name='rmorris' post='322975' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:11 PM']It's still rubbish design if 9V polarity reversal causes permanent damage. It's fairly well accepted that the environment in which a product ( any product ) is likely to be used is relevant with regard to malfunction / damage etc.[/quote] It's designed to a price and performance that is acceptable at that price. If you want Jaguar performance don't buy a mini! [quote name='rmorris' post='322975' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:11 PM']And it's obvious that the inadvertent use of a different supply or polarity reversal is a likely event given the same / similar and unidentified connectors commonly used, dark stages etc...[/quote] A fact that you and most users are aware of and thus should proceed with due care and attention [quote name='rmorris' post='322975' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:11 PM']Since 9V is arguably the most common nominal dc voltage then it seems wholly reasonable to expect protection against polarity reversal of a 9V supply or use of an unregulated supply here. I'm not necessarily expecting it to survive, for example, being fed with 230V ( nominal ) ac mains voltage - it's not a reasonable scenario. And given that the protection can be simple and low cost ( very very low cost ) then I can't see an excuse even for low cost product.[/quote] I'd agree with that in principal to some extent, but a diode in series will immediatley drop the available voltage for the box to do its work. and putting in some sort of crowbar device would also need a fuse etc, and so add costs. [quote name='rmorris' post='322975' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:11 PM']I have to say that I don't think the analogies given are particularly valid - under what circumstances would you take it into your head to pour kerosene into your Lamborghini ?[/quote] Under what circumstances would you take it into your head to pour 12Vdc, of either polarity, into your pedal which clearly states 9Vdc? Picking up the wrong plug on stage and just plugging it is akin to driving your lambo into the petrol station, picking a pump at random, and filling up. [quote name='rmorris' post='322975' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:11 PM']And where is this source of 320Vac ? It's worth noteing that a product running from European ac mains should be able to able to run at significantly above and under the nominal voltage as there is an allowed tolerance on the mains voltage supplied ( +10% / -6% around 230 Vac ? - but I might be incorrect on the actual figures ). Plus should be able to survive various surge transient conditions as defined in emc standards ( there is a sort of opt out for manufacturers but I'll stop now before it gets very nuanced and legalistic :-)[/quote] I only used 320Vac into a telly as it is 230Vac + 30%, ie the same % overvoltage as plugging 12Vdc into a device designed for 9Vdc. The +10% on the 230V spec is generally to accomodate the UKs continuing use of 240 volts, + some tolerance on that. You're right about being able to absorb some surges, but I dont think being connected to 30% overvoltage for what must have been quite a few seconds counts as a surge. Having said all the above, it does seem a shame that pedal manufacturers don't standardise on a 9vdc supply and the same polarity on the same type of connector.

[quote name='stingrayfan' post='315003' date='Oct 26 2008, 12:22 PM']Fender PT100 stomp box tuner. £40 new. Gigged one for 4 years and has worked a treat - very easy to see in dark. Has a mute out and everything. [/quote] +1

Thanks for your replies people. I've just stumbled upon the tascam GTR-1, which seems to be a blend of the MP-BT1 bas trainer and the Boss microBR (ie it has inbuilt mics, has a line input, and allows recodering/overdubbing) Mind you at £265 you'd expect it to be good! Any one come across that one ? Thanks again. Clive

I bought a second hand GWB35 from someone off here about 4 months ago and I love it. Excellent feel, well balanced and hangs well (ie I'm used to a 32" scale and I still found the far end easy enough to reach), good tonal range despite having just the one pick up, and I like the fact that it has fretlines. The only problems I've had are that it gets a bit hissy with the treble turned rightup, one of the saddles used to work its way down while playing (now solved), and that the tone pots are bit scratchy (easily solved).

[quote name='finnbass' post='322104' date='Nov 4 2008, 07:46 PM']Wot! This one? Quite correct Mr Assin. It went through eBay twice in February without a bite and I picked it up on it's third pass. So...they are still out there, keep looking [/quote] I've got say that does look nice - what is the scale length on this? (please let it be 32")

[quote name='Prosebass' post='321658' date='Nov 4 2008, 11:24 AM']Good lateral thinking but superglue needs really flat surfaces to be effective . I would go for a blob of araldite and leave it for 6-12 hours and then try to pull it out.[/quote] Making sure that you don't get araldite everywhere and end up glue the broken bit in to the socket at the same time!

[quote name='elom' post='321498' date='Nov 4 2008, 01:50 AM']This is the only headless I've ever hankered after. Can't find any of the buggers mind you... [attachment=15565:AXB50BK.jpg][/quote] This looks very much like a modern, slightly rounder, take on the Westone Quantum - I'd attach a pic if I had one EDITED to say that having checked on the web I see that these were contempories of the Westone quantum, so not a modern take at all. What is the scale length on these?

My apologies if this subject has been covered before. I am looking to get myself a portable trainer device (Christmas is coming). I've looked at a few on paper, but not actually tried any. To be honest, based on the specs the Tascam looks to be the best option for me, but I was hoping to some solicit opinions from anyone here who's actually used any of them. The ones I've looked at are the Korg Pandora, the Tascam MP-BT1 bass trainer, and the Boss MicroBR. The impression I get is that the Boss thing seems to be more targeted at recording and effects rather than training, and the Korg has lots of effects and amp/speaker emulations, but a very limited memory and only a short loop facility. The Tascam seems to have a fair memory capacity, but doesn't allow you to record anything, the only way to load anything being via USB. Also the tascam doesn't have any auxiliary input, so if what you want isn't loaded then your stuck unless you've got it on your PC. Neither does it have any sort of rythm generator/drum machine (which some of the others have), so you'd have to load any drum tracks as a song via the USB. As I say, at the moment I'm favouring the Tascam, but am interested in opinions on the above three or anyother such device. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. PS I already have a simple headphone amp set up, but am looking to move up from that.

As far as I can tell (some) bass prices are dropping faster than house prices! I was watching a couple of Hohner Jacks on t'bay last week. Not mind blowing basses, but perfectly good instrument. 6 months ago you'd be looking at £180 - 240 ish, but neither of these two went above £80, and neither reached the reserve.

Not quite clear why you'd want to isolate the poles. I would have thought that having the poles earthed would add a degree of screening to the front. As someone else pointed out the screening does not affect the magnetic field, only the electric field. What do others think?

[quote name='gary mac' post='301910' date='Oct 8 2008, 09:03 AM']I've been trying to persuade the band I'm in, to do the Alex Harvey Band version of Delilah. Falling on deaf ears at the moment, cos it's not a twelve bar [/quote] The definitive version IMHO! TO paraphrase the old Marstons pedigree advert "If you can't get the band you're in to do the Alex Harvey Band version of Delilah change bands!"

I am currently having a problem with several bluesy numbers. The problem is that the base lines are very similar, and in some cases pretty well interchangeable (but different), and I sometimes forget which pattern goes with which song. You could argue that if they are that similar then it doesn't really matter as long as it sounds alright, but the guitard doesn't see it that way.

[quote name='rmorris' post='288550' date='Sep 21 2008, 03:32 PM']A mono jack will generally have a sprung contact to the sleeve ( 'earth' ) anyway. ie it'll have two sprung contacts whereas a stereo jack socket will have three sprung contacts. But it would be as well to wire a passive bass as suggested anyway for even better reliability / lower contact resistance on the sleeve contact.[/quote] It depends on the style of the jack I think. The more modern plastic bodied ones with the 'flatish' sprung fingers have a spring contact on the earth (have to as the hole itself is made of plastic), but I've found that most of the more traditional ones built from metal parts with insulating washers between don't, hence my comment. On the plus side I generally find that the plug is more securely retained by the traditional style.

[quote name='7string' post='286366' date='Sep 18 2008, 12:36 AM']I had a Fender Urge Mk1 and really loved it's 32" scale as well as it's awesome electronics.[/quote] Me too!

I'm trying to do the same thing at the moment. Two I'm working on are: 'Jail Bait' by Wishbone Ash - while you're singing is the bass is pretty straight forward, but with more complicated (but not difficult)bits when your not singing. '16 Tons' (merle travers?): simple bass line which doesn't cut accross the vocal line too much. These may not be to your taste, but the trick is (IMHO), as with many things, to start simple and get the idea established before you go for the complicated stuff. ie make sure you can walk before trying to run

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='281110' date='Sep 10 2008, 02:24 PM']Fretless - got to be unlined man![/quote] Why?

[quote name='BOD2' post='271420' date='Aug 27 2008, 11:27 PM']But remember - they work by cutting frequencies, so your sound will suffer from the lost frequencies to some extent.[/quote] Yes, but they are cutting frequencies at which the room tends to resonate anyway, so you could argue that they actually give you a more balanced sound and that without it those resonant frequecies would come over excessively loud. A bigger problem is that if you 'ring out' when you're setting up, ie with the room empty, the response will be totally different once the room is full of sweaty bodies.

I always thought that Active bases should (at the cost of an extra pound or two) have headphone amps built in. You'd probably want a separate socket and a discrete switch to turn it on.

If it's a passive bass and you have a stereo jack then I would personally wire the 'ring' to the earth contact. That way you get a spring contact on the earth rather than relying on the the unsprung contact between the plug sleeve and the outer ring of the socket.

Fair comment on the neck length, I get around that by playing a 32". On the fret spacing I wouldn't have thought it mattered if you weren't going to use them anyway.

[quote name='Doctor J' post='276003' date='Sep 3 2008, 08:26 AM']A lot of players like to play their J bass with the scratchplate removed. Could you imagine Jaco's 62 with that? It may not make a difference to the sound but I don't think that's the point. It's misguided penny pinching, and basses that expensive shouldn't have such blatant penny pinching. If they've cut corners there, what else are they skimping and compromising on?[/quote] On point 1: Then why not buy a Jazz copy that isn't factory fitted with a scratch plate? On point 2: Hopefully they've saved money here because it doesn't make any difference! I've heard a rumour that if you take the truss rod out of an Alembic, and then put a tiny camera down the hole, it looks terrible, not sanded or varnished or anything! Disgraceful I call it.

Out of interest, why do you hate 24 frets. From your description of what you do I'd have thought 24 frets would be ideal. After all you don't have to use the last 4 frets ifyou don't want to!