PaulThePlug

1 can of Wilko's primer applied in 3 coats... Primed... Rubbed down... Ready to Dip! Fingers crossed i'll give it a go Saturday!

Pic? Open style or closed style? Open dis.antle clean and reassemble... Maybe a recurve needed on any wavy washer if thats what used to keep tension Closed, replace the little plastic bush n washer might help if worn.. all parts do a pack(s)...

Using Headphones? Headphone amp and so much more...

Clown Vomit... Leaves a funny taste in ya mouth...🤡 😝

Plain mattish to satin Danish oil finish... Wood is what it is and can be enjoyed as such... charm of its own... Never really seen a plain and light colored LP, always burst or blush... dont need to be coffee table! Lets see what ga get! Or, go Mad Hydro Dip!..

Firey! There be Dragons...

Good Darts!

Good Luck and a Nice pic of ya mustang when back together please...

Yep, screw thru the plate like your first pic... Spring... Pickup Cover (clearance hole), Pickup (threaded hole)... hopefully wires are long enough to assemble then turn over and fit guard... Put a bit of cardboard across the pickup cavity to hold the pickup up, pickup cover on, then spring, cocktail stick... lower the pick guard over the 4 cocktail sticks, then swap each stick for a screw into the pickup untill it catches a bit, then hook the card rests out...

Are the screws like machine screws - fine thread and the same all the way along, or like wood screws, with a point at the end? Are the pickup plastic housing or pickup bottoms threaded, or are there little holes in the body of the pickup cavaties? The former are like Strat pickups, and the most sensible option for a scratch plate, spring goes over the screw between the bottom of the plate and the pickup. Did the pickups come away with the plate? The latter ala P n J... and goes Body > Spring > Pickup as the scratchplate fits around the pickup mounting lugs. But... if the pickup winding bobbin is not a snug fit in the cover, you might need a bit of foam in the bottom to keep them together. If like this try building em up with cocktail sticks... then replace each stick in turn with a screw till it bites a bit.. then lower them all a bit in turn...

Hello and welcome... much to amuse on here... I've dropped you a pm about the Bass Trainer.

Just in case...

Thanks... Weather was a bit damp for priming so rear cover mounting holes, copper tape on the rear cover and screening paint for pickup and control cavitys... 'cotton bud' painted the wire run holes... might drill the jack plug plate and bridge mounting holes later... then i can dismantle ready for priming n painting...

I like the tele shape on a bass n classic tele headstock. I also like the tele bridge... Just an idea... you could 'go long' with a all in one tele style bridge and pickup bezel using an old style '51 single P in it's normal position but on the slant like the tele and mimicing the effect of a split P? Along with the classic control plate. Some cross lineage... and a unique style. I too like an edit!.. Motörwestern

I'm on a Zoom B1on now so can i just leave this here...

Thats it... just slot a block of wood in their to keep the trem plate flat to the body... simple job and easy reversable... removes a lot of the tuning issues improves sustain, meatier tone... And i prefer and swap for a wound 0.16 G (9-42) for feel and a warmer tone... 0.16 in plain feels like a thick bit of wire a wound has loads more 'feel' Transformation for a couple of quid!

Quite often maple necks are 1 piece with a skunk stripe to cover the rear fitted truss rod. Might make a bit of difference to a glued on rosewood fretboard. Laquered board makes a big difference from my guitar experiance.

All knotted and wonky so half goes one way and bits go the other like on the telephone...

With one of my eldests guitars i 'blocked' the trem with a bit of wood in the cavity between the trem block and back of the cavity ala Claptons strat... more sustain!

...it needs to be a coily cable...

Neck holes drilled n neck screwed on. Looking at the neck to body join from the back the 2 piece body join isn't central to the neck... so moving the bridge up a few mm above the join line would be right. Happy Days!.. Drilled the holes for the controls, primer next then screening paint then think about sorting the swirly dip finish...

Looks real nice, like the lil exta cut out access deatail... I'd of gone non trem-though for less faff.. I'm sure they will be impressed with that!