henry norton

Ooh Baby! You know what goes into a good fretless P eh Chris? We assume there's gonna be a scratchplate somewhere in the mix

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='872109' date='Jun 19 2010, 09:25 PM']I'm loving the Stingray vibe and was wondering (this seems like the thread to ask on) if there is a short scale version of any of their instrument range?[/quote] [url="http://www.music-man.com/instruments/guitars/silhouette-bass.html"]Silhouette[/url] It's a MusicMan with a 29-5/8" scale but with 6 strings and guitar pickups probably the only thing close to the Stingray vibe is the name on the headstock! More like a Fender Bass VI. Looks cool though - if I had limitless resources I'd have one but presumably you're after a proper Stingray with a shorter scale?

OOh Gawd! Not another Pre vs Post EB MM argument!!!!! I've owned both and they were both good and, (bizarrely enough), both sounded just like a MusicMan Bass!!!! The differences seem to be as big or small as the issues of the players are, ie. if you paid an absolute fortune for a super vintage Pre EB then you're likely to be looking for (and hearing) a vast improvement over an EB version. They're brilliant basses, not everyone's cuppa but I firmly believe every bass player should own one at some time in their lives. I went back to a Precision after my two but still have fond memories of both.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='871566' date='Jun 19 2010, 11:25 AM']New pots can make a difference, recently I've rewired my guitarists les paul and it sounds so much better, I'm no expert but when I saw the inside of the guitar's cavity I thought it was the worst piece of work I ever saw![/quote] Most potentiometers(!) are just a thin carbon track with a bit of springy metal wiping over it, so even a few years of use can wear it out. People only replace them when they break or start to crackle but like allot of things, you don't notice the difference if it happens over a long period of time. The pots on my Precision are from 1982 - 28 years of wear and tear I never even thought about 'til I read this thread! I'm going to replace them next chance I get and I'll try to do a direct, back-to-back comparison.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='870113' date='Jun 17 2010, 07:43 PM']My first short scale was a 1970s Japcrap EB-3 look-alike, possibly Ibanez (no, really), which I should never have replaced with an Epi Elitist EB-3, but I did. Didn't really get on with the Epi as well as I did the Japcrap one, partly due to the neck dive. When I had the Epi I found it very difficult to adjust between long scale and short scale (kept making mistakes) but haven't had that problem with any of the others. Really want the JapCrap EB-3 back, but it is a specific one - the body is narrower and longer than an EB-3 copy should be - that and the small tuners probably account for the better balance.[/quote] My short scale Epi's pretty good balance wise. It's an Indonesian one with a mahogany neck which in itself weighs about 250 grammes less than the later Chinese made maple versions - that's about a half a pound in old money which is quite allot to have hanging off one end. I couldn't believe the difference 'til I had the opportunity to actually compare one to the other, and that's with the heavy old steel tuners. I play both short and long but it does take equal amounts of practice with both. I try to keep them as different as possible with the EB fretted with flats and my Precision fretless with rounds. The more differences there are the easier it seems to be to deal with the different stretches. Just my half penny worth

Welcome to the forum! Cordialement, HN

About 32.25. I've tried it before and it doesn't make much difference other than slightly slacker feeling strings. It's a bit difficult to tune because of the capo though.

Birdsong do a 31" 5 string (presumably a 5 is what you're after with an E-C tuning) which works out at just a bit over £1500 with the current exchange rate, although it's a bit more if you have to pay in Euros. [url="http://www.birdsongguitars.com/instruments.htm"]Birdsong Guitars[/url] As it happens I'm working on some alternative scale necks as we speak (!), I think allot of makers and players are just a bit too conservative when it comes to trying out different scale lengths and there are too many assumptions made about them (the 'sustain' issue is the big one). Unfortunately, mine are all based around a Fender neck pocket

I've never tried it but I would have thought switching the mudbucker to a single coil would brighten it up no end (half the impedance). It would be quite a bit cheaper than buying a Model 1 which, IMHO isn't actually [i]much[/i] brighter/clearer/wider range than the original mudbucker it was meant to replace. Got your PM by the way

[quote name='RhysP' post='865529' date='Jun 12 2010, 10:24 PM']You didn't miss anything. I saw them & he just looked bored & embarrassed most of the evening. He certainly didn't get a chance to play the way he's famous for. The most memorable thing he did all night was mess up the guitar solo in "Lessons in Love"!! [/quote] I'm not the biggest L42 fan but it seemed to be one of those opportunities that could have turned out really good - you've made me feel allot better about it now. Thanks!

I remember passing up an opportunity to see Holdsworth when he was playing with Level 42 - I can't even remember why now

Well, here's a good start to the quest; [url="http://www.warmoth.com/Bass/Options/BassNeckPocket.aspx"]Warmoth bass neck pockets[/url] Looks like the 'later' models are a different size to the earlier 'deluxe' ones. No mention of Squier or any of the other cheaper variants.

[quote name='Rumple' post='864949' date='Jun 12 2010, 10:54 AM']If they did have the same pocket size like the 4 stringers do that could open up a chance for some fun! not sure how you find out though.[/quote] I'd have to visit a few music shops with my vernier callipers up my sleeve That said, that sort of leftfield information is the sort of thing the internet was made for. I'll bet there's someone who's done the deed...

[quote name='Rumple' post='864428' date='Jun 11 2010, 04:34 PM']Hmmm.... I like the idea of a 35" scale 5 string neck with a Lakland style 3+2 tuner configuration to try out on Fender and Squier bodies. I wonder what sort of costs are involved in getting a one off made? R.[/quote] Ahh yesss, A 5 string would definitely benefit from an extended scale neck (it could increase the number of frets too), It would make sense to me if the neck pocket were the same for most Fender 5-string variants (Jazz, Precision, MIA, MIM, Squier etc.) Does anyone know?

[quote name='Johnston' post='863673' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:21 PM']I meant the 30" on tele's etc. Theres a few been done over on the telecaster forum (tdpri). I think they have been using musicmaster necks. [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/bass-place/150467-my-tele-bass-project.html"]something like this[/url][/quote] Ah, I see. That's actually looks pretty cool - a proper bit of hacking (the high-end design meaning, not the computer or general woodwork meanings )

[quote name='Johnston' post='862458' date='Jun 9 2010, 07:29 PM']Thats pretty much why I looked into building my own , locally I had two choices for SS. Have you thought maybe instead of short scales for Ps and Js going for for tele's and strats instead. I've seen a few on the forums using the fender shortscale necks on the guitars and swapping out the pups with railed 'buckers. Or doing some routing work and using scratch plates to hide the old holes.[/quote] No I never had, although 25.5" might be asking a bit much to go down to low E - maybe it's more baritone territory than full on bass? The reason I thought "short scale neck for Fender Bass" was it's a relatively straightforward bit of woodwork you can bolt all your existing hardware to. I'd be interested in seeing what people have done though. That said, it might not be too difficult adding another few inches to say, a Strat using a longer neck, bolt all the existing hardware back on and string it an octave lower, budget Fender Bass VI !!!

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='863563' date='Jun 10 2010, 07:23 PM']Could you not use a BBOT bridge with the screw thread type saddles ?[/quote] I've seen a few 8 (& 12) string basses without seperate saddles for the octave strings. Apparently they're alright 'til you get past the 6th or 7th frets when the difference in pitch starts to sound a bit discordant. That way you could use the BBOT with screw thread saddles and just drill 4 extra holes in the bent bit at the back. Cheaper than a 471!

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='863372' date='Jun 10 2010, 04:31 PM']oops. That schaller bridge is discontinued... Further research required. Hmm...[/quote] Ahh, I was wondering where you were going to get the Schaller 471 from. Last I checked Warmoth still have a few in stock - it might bust through your under a ton barrier once you factor in postage but they are [i]the[/i] 8 string bridge to have. Give them a try.... You've got to do this now, I have to see how this turns out.

Sounds wickedd, the two possible issues would be the string spacing (probably not critical if you don't mind playing them close together) and neck tension, as the truss rod will now need to deal with the tension of two sets of long scale strings. That's why most double stringers have two truss rods. That said, maybe if you kept the main string tension way down (like a set of 30,50,65,85s) as well as the octaves, then why not give it a go? The other way to keep the tension down would be to tune the whole bass down a tone or so.

Nice job - the walnut works well too, it's more of a contrast than you'd think but still presumably dark enough to make it look unlined from a distance

Right! I can't believe it's taken me this long (only like 4 months...) just to rout a mortice for the neck on the Reverse T.Bird type bass. Anyway, it gives a much clearer idea of the profile now the neck's sitting properly. Now all I've got to do is get on with the rest of it

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='862295' date='Jun 9 2010, 05:31 PM']My Hofner does not have weak pickups the output on them is similar to my Darkstars Basically it's a different vibe you go for with the shortscale basses, more thuddy and vintage, I love it, not everyone will but the beauty of it is it can be achieved with a fairly cheap instrument just wack some decent flats on it[/quote] I mean no disrespect to you Hofner The Hofner Violin basses I've played have all been pretty low output - maybe I'm too used to the DiMarzio in my P or the monster mudbucker in my EB. As for yours being as high output as Darkstars maybe Hofner inadvertently put a couple of SD Full Shreds into yours by mistake!

Kool - I'm a recent(ish) convert to short scales and I'm pretty unimpressed with what's out there off the shelf. I'm convinced that adding a decent, short-scale neck to an already decent body with decent pickups and hardware should make for a much better, more usable bass than shelling out for a not very good cheapie. As for long scales, I also want to try a 36" scale neck and string my Precision B,E,A,D or maybe even lower if I can find the strings. Warwick do an ultra-low tuned bass don't they?

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='862018' date='Jun 9 2010, 01:54 PM']I'm making the move to short scale after 20 years on the bigger boys. I find them just so much more comfortable to play, particularly over longer sets. Sound wise, there really isn't that much difference in newer models IMO, as modern preamps and modern string design can more than compensate for lower string tension etc. I have a Tanglewood TEB12 semi acoustic 30" bass. Tonally is very good and versatile, the only weak element being the E string which lacks definition compared to the other strings. But a bit of thoughtful playing gets around this. This is probably due to the strings I'm using more than anything else. I'm looking at a SX jazz bass next, and putting in a good preamp with good high tension strings should still deliver useable tone that most people would be hard pressed to tell the difference between it's 34" brother.[/quote] +1 on that - the main issue with most short scales is they're budget instruments and come with cheap, crappy pickups and strings so come out of the box sounding muddy and dull. The more expensive basses tend to be somewhat perculiar in design and construction (Gibson EB with its' mudbucker or the Hofners with their hollow bodies and weak pickups). If you were to take a solid, short scale bass and string it with decent set of roundwounds, install good quality pickups and maybe some decent hardware and electronics it will become quite difficult to tell the difference. Take a look at these... [url="http://www.birdsongguitars.com/"]Birdsong guitars[/url]

[quote name='Marky L' post='861204' date='Jun 8 2010, 05:50 PM']Yeah, this is replacing a funsome "lively" neck and I don't want to end up cooking and twisting from too much hot sun.. but I do like the concept. I was actually thinking of doing the fretboard too (*runs and hides) and was wondering about coating the frets with wax instead of little strips of masking tape prior to varnishing. I do have a very clear and disturbing image in my mind of me blubbing, holding a buggered neck and mumbling "Why the f**k did I even think about doing this..."[/quote] It's not [i]that[/i] difficult - if the neck is set up and ready tp play then maybe masking the frets might be a possibility, but otherwise, you have to stone, re-crown, smooth, deburr and polish the frets anyway, which is a fair bit more work than smoothing and polishing the thin cellulose coating on a maple neck will need. Cellulose goes on really thin, so you may as well spray the whole neck, board and all and not worry about masking. This way you can polish the frets the same time you're polishing the face of the board.