henry norton

Got all the general layout, angles etc. sorted for the short scale now. I'll be making the 'proper' body out of mahogany now I'm happy everything fits. I've been thinking about profiling the back, Strat style, but I'm not sure about the front. What do you (collective Basschatters) think?

Mental! The fretless neck looks really nice too - I hope you wore your mask when you did the glueing! Jazz style offset sounds good. It'll look less wide and blocky than a symmetrical body. Keep postin'

[quote name='Musicman20' post='773869' date='Mar 13 2010, 09:50 PM']I think its just that the TF ticks all the boxes, and despite the fact I could get one made, Id probably not have the good resale value the TF seems to hold. I am unfortunately a Fender fanboy haha. The finish is nitro I do believe, and the spec is different from the standards, plus it has that lovely ebony board. This is what attracts me. The overall look of the instrument is great. How does the nitro wear? The J pup sounds massive on your vids and the TF demo vids. I know the selector is a bit odd, but the tone is bloomin spot on. Basically, I want to be able to have a Precision/Ebony fretless, but with the nice j pickup....so I think this might be a good choice.[/quote] Yeah you're probably right about resale values etc. although it's all relative so you usually won't lose as much in real cash terms if you didn't pay as much in the first place. But having a real US Fender does make a big difference to some people, and if it fits your brief then go for it. A cellulose finish generally mellows with age rather than looking 'beaten up' like the thicker, modern finishes tend to. It's thinner and more easily scratched/worn though.

Nice work with the truss rod there, very neat. I like the headstock shape too. Looking forward to following this.

[quote name='Beedster' post='773285' date='Mar 13 2010, 12:40 AM']You can't beat an ebony board, and much as I love the tone of a Precision fretless, the Jazz PUP does offer tonal options. I think the TF is extremely popular not because of any particular magic, but simply down to those two factors, certainly in comparison with the standard fretless Precision with rosewood board. Let's face it, Fender are particularly unimaginative when it comes to non-traditional options (they still don't do a PJ in the US standard line, probably the only manufacturer from Squier to Sadowsky not to), so the TF stands out like a sore thumb. I've only played one briefly and it felt and played well, and owning a '71 with pretty much the same spec, I can certainly endorse the ebony/PJ thing. However, are there better fretless basses in the same price range? F**k yeh! Are there better fretless Precisions in the same price range? Probably not C[/quote] +1 on that. For 1300 quid you could get a luthier made Precision or for allot less you could put one together using Warmoth parts or suchlike. I know there's nothing quite like having the 'Fender US' transfer on the headstock, but there are allot of other options out there that'll give you better hardware, better pickups and more usable controls. Having said that, if it could [i]only[/i] be a US Fender, the TF is about the closest there is for me.

Chances are it won't make any difference to your sound. An Encore isn't that valuable either and taking it to a luthier will cost you a fair few quid as (if they were any good), they'd have to cut a piece of similar wood to go into the pocket and then re-route it. Then you have to think about refinishing I'd charge 60-80 quid just for the woodwork. On the other hand, If you really hate having a gap, you could smear a bit of car body filler around the neck pocket where the gap is, cover the end of the neck in cling film and bolt it in. Wait 20 minuites for the filler to harden then take the neck back off, trim the oozed out filler back with a knife then colour it in with a felt tip pen. Job done, and better than Polyfilla EDIT; Sorry lemmywinks, I didn't read your post properly, you're absolutely spot on there mate!

'Ultimate' is as much misused as 'happy' when it comes to these artsy, subjective things. That's why I own more than one bass. I'm happy with all of them but always want more....

[quote name='Beedster' post='770309' date='Mar 10 2010, 01:55 PM']Still have the neck, although I've listed it for sale in 'Other musically related stuff' (http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=80016&hl=). I was just getting to the point where I had too many basses, and the differences between them were getting smaller and smaller. The '71 above has everything I could need in one fretless bass, and has allowed me to let both my fretless Jazz and fretless Precision go (I rarely used the neck PUP on the Jazz, and always felt the Precision needed a little more bite than I could get from the P-PUP alone). How's your maple fretless neck coming on?[/quote] Yeah, there's a difference between being a player and a collector. I like your '71 the most out of all three - probably as it's the closest to my setup! I'd hazard a guess you've got closer to the 'more acoustic' sound you were after with the added J pickup too. I finished my neck a while ago now - in fact I've built a couple more since! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=68623&st=0"]fretless maple neck[/url] I'll convert all Fender players to maple fretless in time Good luck with the sales. HN

I'd have all of those Chris, you'd better keep your doors locked mate! But what happened to your maple fretless?

[quote name='Thunderpaws' post='769679' date='Mar 9 2010, 09:28 PM']Cheers for the link...will check it out in a minute or two. Today I routed the channel in my neck blank for the truss rod. Had to buy a new router bit as the one I had was close but no cigar. I am using the U channel two way from David Dyke and it's bang on 10mm. Tomorrow my saw will arrive and I'll cut the frets and nut slot. Any ideas for radiusing the finger board....I have access to a belt sander. g[/quote] Whoahh!!! Steady with the belt sander there. If you have a sharp plane then you can get the board pretty close to perfect using that, then use a bit of straight, flat wood a couple of feet long with sandpaper glued or double sided to it to finish it off. You can make a profile template out of card so you can check your progress. You can actually buy a profile block from places like Stewart Macdonald [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Leveling/Fretboard_Radius-sanding_Blocks/8_Wooden_Radius-sanding_Blocks.html"]stewmac[/url] which'll do the whole board in one go, but you don't [i]need[/i] one. If you're super confident on the belt sander then go for it, but they can take allot of material away very quickly so approach with caution Good luck mate!

Lookin' good! Considering all the work you put into sanding it back to the bare wood why don't you refinish it in clear or tint lacquer - maybe even some type of oil. Just because the wings aren't AAA+ flame doesn't mean the wood isn't worth showing. Ironically enough, you'll probably find a Pedulla is much more saleable in a natural finish

[quote name='bassjase128' post='763840' date='Mar 4 2010, 01:28 PM']Hi there, Looking good so far, keep us posted. I will be starting a similar project shortly. I love the shapes. Jase[/quote] Thanks for the comments Jase - I'm going to try and do a bit more today if I get some spare time. Are you making a T.Bird or an EB type?

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='762502' date='Mar 3 2010, 05:56 AM']I also think Lakland are responsible for stupid bollocks ideas like through-body stringing and 35" scale being beneficial in some appreciable way.[/quote] NOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Don't go there - the argument will last for all eternity

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='760651' date='Mar 1 2010, 01:49 PM']No but thanks I'll have a look [/quote] Warmoth and Allparts will sell you a lined ebony fretless although you're looking at 3-400 quid. There are allot more options if you were to go for rosewood (you could have a defret or have the choice of loads of relatively cheap Ebay necks), but as an (ex) Ebony fretless player, I know there ain't nothin' like an ebony board. If it's any consolation I got so fed up with looking for a fretless maple neck for my Precision I ended up making one. Here's one I made earlier

All my basses are cheap! It's how you play 'em

Have you thought of Fender Japan or early (JV) Squier stuff? You'll have a few hundred in change to buy an ACG filter or Sadowsky pre. then you'll get a really well made J bass with all the tonal variation you'd ever need. I've owned both (and early Tokai, which is just as good), and you really are hard pushed to find a better quality basic Jazz. Having said that, the US standard Jazzes play very well and there's nothing like having the 'real thing', but sound wise there's nothing much in it.

I've rough cut the necks now - here's a pic of the necks and bodies together. I'll post some more once I've sorted out the routings and neck mortices - hopefully they'll look a bit more like musical instruments and less like bad modern art. I just wish there were more hours in the day

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='757618' date='Feb 25 2010, 10:45 PM']router's not for the edges, its for setting the lower level of the contour around the perimiter of the body. It can help shave off an even 7 to 10 mm as the baseline for the 'lower level'. Then you can blend in between upper (around the pickups) and lower levels (the perimeter) with scrapers and sanding disks to get a nice smooth transition. Spokeshaves are pigs.[/quote] Delbert was probably talking about using a router to round over the edges - I wouldn't bother using a router to set a level for a contour, I'd just shave it away with a surform 'til it felt right.

I don't want to come across too 'jobsworthy' but spokeshaves can be quite tricky to use - especially for the inside curve you'll have to do on the back. I'd recommend a [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23356&name=surform&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44"]round surform[/url] . You can easily carve the back and with a bit of care you can do the front too, all for less than a tenner (plus some sandpaper, paint etc.)

Thing is, with most 'custom' basses you are getting a variation based on a luthier's already proven design. You can usually try out something similar then specify certain woods, pickups etc. to suit what you want (or what you [i]think[/i] you want). It's quite rare a luthier will make something totally unique for you.

[quote name='Low End Bee' post='754711' date='Feb 23 2010, 10:13 AM']I prefer the BBOT for 'attack'. I truth there's not a noticeable difference. I'm not sure its worth shelling out if you're on a budget. Strings seem to be the thing that affects this sort of thing most in my experience.[/quote] +1 'Sound per pound' a new bridge is way down the list. I'd try strings first - it always astonishes me how so many players will throw stacks of 'improvements' at their basses yet still keep their crusty old strings - present company excluded of course A high mass bridge [i]can[/i] make some difference but as Public Enemy says, "Don't Believe Da Hype!"

Very nice! I've got Rotosound TruBass (the black, nylon wound ones) on my short scale Epi EB and it sounds and feels fantastic. As for adjustments, fit the strings you want first then decide whether you need to sort out the action. If you've done it before it shouldn't cause you any problems - the Gibson 3 point works in pretty much the same way as any other - you just have to compromise on string height. Have a twiddle - just use the correct size screwdrivers!!!!!

Thanks for the comments - I am a bit worried about the Jazzmaster similarities, but hopefully it'll look a bit more T.Birdish once the scratchplate and hardware goes on. I've made the two bodies out of some Douglas I had kicking around but will probably be making the real things from Lime (basswood) or maybe Mahogany (depending on finish, tone and possible balance problems). I just want to make sure everything fits first! The necks for both are mahogany with a maple centre stripe. The T.Bird will have chrome Hipshot hardware, a maple board (a not towards Entwistles Fenderbirds) and EMG DC humbuckers running 18 volts with chrome covers and possibly some active tone controls, a set neck, all finished in cream with a white scratchplate. The Eb will have a DiMarzio model 1 and a Schaller HB, a rosewood board and a TV butterscotch finish with a black scratchplate and chrome hipshot hardware and a set neck again. I'll be trying series/parallel switching to get a bit more out of the pickups. Anyway, I've a way to go before I get to the fittings stage so watch this space....

I think allot of people miss the point of owning an 'expensive' instrument. To most listeners one bass will sound much like another and in a blind test even the most seasoned Fender player will be hard pushed to find a [i]big[/i] difference in sound between a Squier and a MIA. As far as wood goes a piece of Canadian Rock Maple on a Chinese bass is no different to one on an American bass - it's all from the same trees.... Better pickups, electrics etc. will only narrow the gap but the real point of say, a MIA Fender is it just feels better owning one as compared to a Chinese made Squier. There's the cachet of the name and the kudos of where it was made that makes it a bit more 'real', a bit more Rock'n'Roll. I'm pretty sure knowing that can make you play better, therefore making the bass itself feel like it plays better. It's the difference between owning a real Rolex and a fake. The fake will probably tell the time just as well but knowing you've got the real thing on gives you extra confidence and maybe a certain satisfaction knowing you have the real thing and are not just pretending. Henry Norton (Doesn't own a wristwatch )

Some people think it does nothing and others will proclaim through body stringing changes their bass from a lifeless plank into the best instrument they've ever played! It's allot of work for something that [i]could[/i] prove to make no difference - if you've got a few quid you want to throw at your bass to improve the sound you'd get better results buying a new pickup or a tone circuit.