henry norton

From what I understand rosewood gives a tight, bright sound when used for acoustic guitars due to its hardness but with a warmth stemming from the open grain. Take from that what you will - it looks like it'll be a beautiful guitar and it should sound good whatever (decent) pickups you use. I reackon it'll [i]look[/i] really good with chrome hardware and a pair of Darkstars. Does your customer have an opinion???

Welcome to the forum. Looks nice - what sound do you want and what pickups can you get down your way??????

[quote name='nunnelse' post='692820' date='Dec 24 2009, 11:10 AM']what's the deal regards flatwound versus roundwound strings? I hear some say that flatwounds damage the fretboard, is that true?[/quote] Well, you should use the strings you like the best. Rounds will wear any board out eventually but it takes quite a long time before the wear will affect the playability. Half rounds, flats & coated strings will all cause less wear on the board but don't use strings you don't like because you're worried about wearing the board out. You could always go the coated route, where the fingerboard is coated with either a thick layer of polyester paint or a thinnish layer of epoxy resin. It'll cost you a fair bit more on top of the derfet price though. For 95 Euro you can't go far wrong - just bear in mind the value of the bass won't be increased by 95 Euro!

Yep, Squier have always been pretty good - I guess they've always had something to prove.

I've got a DiMarzio P and a Schaller J in my Precision and it used to be my bass for all occasions when I used to play 'for money'. Sh#t pickups will always sound, well, sh#t, no matter what combinations they're in, but a decent PJ combination should cover more tonal ground than double J or humbuckers unless coil switches and/or decent tone circuits are factored in. Bear in mind different P pickups can sound quite different to one another - same with J's.

Yeah, Helicoils are always a good idea for ali, but the Kramer neck fixing looks pretty unusual. Can you post some pictures of the fixings, pocket and neck heel?

It's not finished yet but I strung it up this evening to fit the nut and check the general fit , alignment and hardware. It needs a string tree and a truss rod tweak but I'm really pleased with it. It sounds very crisp and clear but not harsh, presumably as the coating's around a millimetre so the sound of the wood's still coming through. I didn't finish the nut in the end as I was too busy playing it! Anyway, I'll get it sorted, finished then photographed properly and I might even stick it in the gear porn section it looks that good (if I say so meself...).

+1 on all that - if it's an Epiphone then go for it. They're meant to be quite good, maybe soon to be regarded in the same way Japanese Squiers are, but I have no regrets modding my JV Squier, even though it'd be worth a fair bit more unmolested. If you've got an original non reverse Gibson Thunderbird then sell it and pay a luthier to make you whatever you want - you'll probably be able to buy a new rig and a car to drive it around in with the change

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='686397' date='Dec 16 2009, 04:16 PM']If it all goes pear shaped, one of these may help you out - [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_...Rescue_Kit.html[/url][/quote] For 234 dollars (150 quid or so?) I'd buy me a Dremel and use a small cutter to grind a slot in the head of the allen bolt, then unscrew it with a slot head screwdriver. I would then spend the 100 quid change on drink, drugs, loose women or maybe even my wife and kids.... Here's a link. [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=810151&name=dremel&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0"]dremel[/url] During my engineering past a quick fix could be made by hammering a slightly oversized allen key or screwdriver into the stripped head of the sick allen bolt in order to get a grip on it and get it off.

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='684762' date='Dec 15 2009, 02:06 AM']oh wow, it's finished? Gutted.[/quote] The reserve wasn't met so looks like a case of the seller knowing the value and the punters not wanting to spend the cash. Maybe you could ask the seller to put it on as a 'buy it now' if they're happy with your grand, although by the looks of the other fleas out there, they'll be looking for a fair bit more...

[quote name='BigRedX' post='686094' date='Dec 16 2009, 10:53 AM']IME getting a decent low B is more about construction of the bass than the scale length. However, I notice that Rob Allen doesn't actually offer a 5-string version of the Mouse 30 Bass, and the 5-string versions of his other models are 35" scale. Birdsong do a 31" 5-string, but they are specialists in the production of short-scale basses. Therefore in theory it can be done. Although as a first build by someone who confesses to have limited woodworking skills, I suspect that you may be disappointed by the end result.[/quote] Yes I've read some good reports on the Birdsong 5 string (all on their website I might add ). They use a weird string through fixing for the low B that folds it back on itself. I'm not sure what difference it makes in the real world but they've patented it so I guess it must have some effect. The major problem with most short scales is they're either cheapest of the cheap budget basses or quirky relics from a bygone era like Gibson EBs, so the average short scale will always be a bit 'challenging' soundwise. All Birdsong have done is built well made, nicely specced basses that happen to be short scale, proving the wood and pickups count as much as the scale length - I'm surprised nobody did it before. I'm looking at building a couple semi hollow basses with a 31" scale once I've finished my current project - I might just try a low B....

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' post='685093' date='Dec 15 2009, 01:51 PM']I'm happy to de-fret anf finish the board myself. I've done this before. I was thinking this time that I'd like to file the frets back leaving the tangs as markers, i've seen this done and it looked nice. The nickel dust would get ingrained in the maple and look nasty, so it may well be rosewood. I wish I could remember whos bass it was with the "stoned to the tangs fets", it was posted here a couple of months back, I can't remember waht the board was.[/quote] You'd be much better off taking the frets out completely and filling the gaps with wood, you can see one of the tangs already fell out and there's another sticking up. I'd still go the rosewood route too - I think lined fretless looks much nicer in rosewood, and you won't need to mess around with a finish (although I have to admit they do look kinda nice) [url="http://www.woodwiz.com/epoxy/pictures.html"]Thor epoxy coated fingerboards[/url]

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' post='684541' date='Dec 14 2009, 10:30 PM']The reason why I'm limited to maple or rosewood is because i'm buying two off the peg necks and that's what's available in my price range! The price is even more of an issue as i have to buy two of every thing. Pictures will be posted as soon as there is anything to see.[/quote] In that case I'd definitely go for rosewood - you're unlikely to find a fretless maple neck off the peg and they do add a bit of complication as you shouldn't really use them fretless unless the finish has been beefed up on the board itself. Using rosewood will give you plenty of choice neck wise.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' post='684130' date='Dec 14 2009, 05:16 PM']i'm not too concerned about ware to the board, I'l almost certainly be using black nylon flats, I'd have thought that the nylon would ware out before any damage was done to the board itself. My main concern is the effect on tone and response.[/quote] I should imagine with nylon flats it won't really matter what wood you use for the boards - the strings are so unique sounding. I like maple fretless boards because of the look and the ultra smooth feel but the sound can often be as much to do with the coating (which they definitely need), so tend to be quite bright, which could give your flats some extra definition, or make them sound too clanky and clattery, depending on your point of view. Rosewood won't be a problem wear-wise whatever strings you use unless you're a 7 nights a week gigger. Being nosey, I'm wondering why ebony has been factored out of the equation - you're looking at another tenner at the most for an ebony blank and for a fretless, there's nothing quite like it, silky, quick and with a perfectly balanced sound (IMHO). Sounds brilliant by the way. Maybe you could post some pictures on the build diaries section.

[quote name='markbass555' post='681815' date='Dec 12 2009, 12:31 AM']Guys, I have a totally original 67 p bass which i absolutely adore but has started to develop a problem. The volume on the E and A string is fine all the way up the neck but on the D and G string after the 5th fret or so there is a notable decrease in volume, infact if you play them past the 7th fret or so forget it u cant hear them in the mix at all. Do you guys reckon I need the pick-ups rewound? I dont want to replace them to decrease the value of the bass and I have tried adjusting the height but after 42 years of playing they wont budge lol. Oh and for the record I have tried my lakland BG with lindys at exactly the same amp settings and didnt have any issues whatsoever! If it is the case of a rewind I was thinking of sending them to the guys at bare knuckle but will it affect the value of the bass and will this cure the problem? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance[/quote] +1 on all the above, do not get your (valuable) pickup rewound. This sounds a pretty bizarre problem - a dead spot lasting all the way from the 5th fret onwards but only affecting the D&G strings when amplified does [i]sound[/i] like a pickup issue but nevertheless, have it checked out before you start looking at rewinds. If it works absolutely fine below the 5th fret why would it not above, unless it's some weird inductance/capacitance problem? Maybe your first hurdle will be to get the pickup out. Be really careful with this as you can quite easily slice through the windings if you use too much elbow grease. If you find another pickup does the same thing then you'll know it's the bass - you could even swap the coils around if you're careful and the wires are long enough - then you can see if the problem swaps over to the other two strings... I guess what I'm trying to say is try all other avenues first before you resort to surgery - I'd do the same on my hundred quid Epiphone so your so your multi-thousand pound vintage P demands at least that. Let us know what you find....

[quote name='aznbass' post='682290' date='Dec 12 2009, 05:37 PM']Lookin nicer! That headstock shape is really nice, Cant wait to see it finished! good luck with the rest mate :):)[/quote] Thanks again! I can't wait to get playing it

Finished sanding the neck and coated the board with epoxy. Sanded and reshaped the fingerboard as I was quite surprised how my nicely cut radius was messed up by the epoxy pooling at the edges. Anyway, I've polished it to like a satin finish but will need more elbow grease (or another buffing mop) to get it to that glassy stage. As the rest of the neck will be satin finished I'm not sure I'll go that route or just keep it the way it is. I suppose I can take it off and polish it any time... Anyway, here's a test fitting - I'll post a picture of it once I've made the nut and fitted it all up.

All the above but add the Epiphone Jack Casady which seems to tick all your boxes, or the Allen Woody Rumblekat if you like short scales and double pickups near the neck. The DeArmond Starfire (or the Guild version if you want to spend collector type money), which is doubly good as you can drop a pair of Darkstar pickups straight in, or along similar lines you can find near new Eastern built Epiphone Rivolis (or the US Epis or Gibson EB-2 if you've got the cash). Try this site for some inspiration; [url="http://www.hollowbodybass.com/"]hollowbody bass[/url] You can also get new-old stock Vox hollowbodies from places like the Bass Cellar in Denmark St. (maybe elsewhere) which play really nicely and look rather good too. Don't go for the first bass that comes along - there are massive differences just like there are with solids, so try (lots) before you buy

If you've got a couple of grand to add to it you could buy a Wal

I got a couple of hours this afternoon so started carving the neck. Plenty of sanding and smoothing to do yet, but it feels pretty nice so far.

Don't use a gallon of glue on it whatever you do! a couple of spots of wood glue or superglue will be enough to hold it in there whilst still allowing you to get it out again

[quote name='aznbass' post='677244' date='Dec 7 2009, 10:35 PM']looking nice!![/quote] Thanks! It's starting to look a bit more like a neck now the headstock's done. I'll start carving the profile in the next couple of days, so I'll hopefully have a basic neck done by the weekend if I can make some time. The really interesting work starts then when I start applying the epoxy - especially when it comes to smoothing and polishing it. I'll probably have to stop myself bolting it straight on the bass before I've put the finish on.

Blummin bandsaw broke so I had to chisel the headstock to the right shape. There's also no such thing as a 17mm drill bit to fit the Hipshot ultralites I've got so I had to grind down an 18 to the right size. Anyway, complications asides, I smoothed it all off and cut the board radius this afternoon. I cut it to 10 inches - not for any particular reason other than a flatter board might be less inclined to choke a bent string on a low action, and my other basses have either 7.5 or 12, so I can now boast 3 different cambers on my wall.... Finally reaching the carving stage. Gulp!