henry norton

During the dark ages (well, the mid 1980's), when I started playing, Orange were generally regarded as something you bought if you couldn't afford a second hand Marshall. How times have changed eh????

I'm sure there's some tool out there somewhere who'll pay up. My 300 quid amp recently came up on Ebay US for 2500 US Dollars (1800 quid or so?), and if someone offered me that for it I'd take the money and run

It'll be interesting to see how they get on in today's market - 3k will buy you a pretty good, custom built bass but for some I guess only a Wal will do.... Good luck to them.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='616590' date='Oct 4 2009, 05:40 PM']While that is a great idea its also frought with problems, i.e. my dull - brite - very brite may vary from say Niks or yours.... My lovely tension (considering I only use flats) would probably rank amongst some others as unplayable.... Now were there an industry std by which all things could be measured, that would be a great help......[/quote] Yes but a database would at least go some way to showing your average bass player the differences. Having a base point to start with would be a help - say Rotosound swing bass and whatever the most popular flat is. It would probably be impossible to apply an industry standard because all the manufacturers want us to think their strings are better than everybody else's.

NO!!!!!!!!!!! I'm definitely not looking to buy. I'm always curious about new gear on the market - especially as there seems to be more and more choice when it comes to big valve heads. Laney, Orange, Marshall, Ampeg, Matamp, Ashdown - but thus far I've almost always found cheap, far eastern gear lacking in almost every way. I hope whoever buys this bears that in mind. I'm all valve meself, (after 20 odd years solid state) but 100 watts is more than enough for me and my back at the moment.

[quote name='4000' post='616500' date='Oct 4 2009, 02:57 PM']I'v come to realise that this really is a much bigger factor than many people think. Change your brand of strings, change your sound. At least IME.[/quote] +1 on that - probably the biggest single factor in your sound. The problem is there's not that much information available for actually comparing like for like - after all, how can you describe a subtle difference in a sound, let alone a feel? People get put off 'cos you're looking at anything from 25 to 50 quid for a set, allot to lay out if you end up not liking them. Maybe we should start a database with easy to use parameters describing brightness, depth, smoothness, tension etc. on a 1 to 10 scale or suchlike. At least it will give a starting point for anyone looking for a change.

[quote name='mrcrow' post='616076' date='Oct 3 2009, 10:30 PM'][url="http://www.bronze-ingot.com/aluminium-bronze.html"]lets compromise[/url][/quote] Hah! Isn't that used for boat propellers? I guess it means you can play your bass underwater and it won't corrode. You might have a problem with the 400 volts going through your valve amp though....

[quote name='Musicman20' post='615922' date='Oct 3 2009, 07:26 PM']At this price itd be Matamp/Orange....no doubt about it.[/quote] Thing is you're looking at half the power for not much less money if you go the Orange route, less control too. Having said that, don't Laney do a 400watt all valve bass head for around the same money, if not a bit less?

I'm sure someone's posted something about these amps before; [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ashton-BV300H-All-valve-300watt-Bass-head-amp_W0QQitemZ180357483623QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL?hash=item29fe24cc67&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_973wt_935"]ashton???!!![/url] It's allot of valve power for your money but I wonder what you're buying into. It wouldn't cost much less to [i]re-valve[/i] an SVT or 400+. Anyone tried one?

For what Torres are asking for 1 watt, you could probably find a hundred watts of vintage amp in need of some TLC (although you could spend that again just on valves). The big question is, have you ever seen a vintage SVT for sale in need of repair? If you have, here's a link to some schematics; [url="http://www.drtube.com/guitamp.htm#Ampeg"]Ampeg Schematics[/url]

The old MusicMan amps used a solid state pre and valve power amp. It's where the valves should be if you really want the 'valve sound' and the headroom. A valve or two in the pre will colour the sound but as most 'hybrid' amp owners'll tell you, a valve preamp won't make it sound like an SVT classic. That's asides from all the transistors and op amps in your active bass. The first Trace valve series had a GP11 pre as well. It would be interesting to try one of these back to back with a Marshall or Ampeg all valve setup. Mind you, that would only happen "if Heiniken ran music shops"

[quote name='Les' post='614240' date='Oct 1 2009, 10:09 PM']If it doesn't I'm taking up drums to drive some other bassplayer mad.[/quote] Don't do it!!!

I used to use a 200 watt Alligator combo with 2x8" speakers and I never had to turn it up much past 3. Most of my gigs were a hundred to two hundred, although bigger gigs were just put through a DI box. It's allot to do with how loud the other band members are.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='613856' date='Oct 1 2009, 03:33 PM']Thanks Henry. Yes, a Gibson type switch is what im after although i would have a small DPDT type one rather than a big one. Im hoping to use the P most of the time so i wont need quick and easy access to the switch. I dont even konw what a PJ sounds like but if i have the switch in the centre (both on) position shouldn't that give me the same as having a VVT set up and so allow me to blend the two pups? I do think its a shame to hack the DJ5 up but as long as its done well i dont mind.[/quote] Yeah, the 'both on' position will give you the same effect as a VVT setup so long as the switch is connected after the volumes and before the tone(!). You may find your biggest headache will be finding a small enough switch to do the pickups. An actual DPDT switch won't work unless you use two, (you'd only need single poles, one for each pickup), but you're going from BC Rich into Alembic territory here. Otherwise you'd need either a toggle switch or a Fender 'cheese cutter' type switch. The Fender type is quite unobtrusive and if you're having your beloved routed anyway then it maybe wouldn't cost that much more. Otherwise, maybe the push-pull pots are the most practical solution. I'd be interested to see the result, sounds really interesting, especially as it's quite a 'high end' bass. Just a thought, if you only wanted to turn the Jazz pickup off then you could use a tiny single pole switch, or maybe use a push pull pot on your tone control so it's nicely out of the way.

[quote name='SS73' post='613961' date='Oct 1 2009, 05:40 PM']I have been playing through my brothers Marshall JTM 45, and each time I am just amazed at how pure and uncluttered it sounds, you strike a note and bang! its there at the speakers!, just travelling through a few valves and the odd resistor effortlessly turned into actual crisp but smooth sound. Something a circuit board could only dream of.[/quote] Well, I do play through a Marshall JMP bass combo and asides from a slight lack of low end it sounds very good no matter what's played through it. That's the point though, it can make a not very good bass sound good, whereas I'm interested in how to make a bass sound better before it gets to the amp. I used to have a JTM 45 - best amp I ever owned but weighed a ton!

I've found there's not much difference between a switch and two volumes. Lately though I've been using one volume full on and just dialling in a bit of contrast to open out the sound, which you definitely won't get with a switch. If you could find a small enough 3-way toggle, maybe you could do the Gibson thing and have both the volumes for blending and the switch for speed and electrical isolation. So long as you don't mind your DJ5 looking like a BC Rich

[quote name='Rayman' post='613745' date='Oct 1 2009, 01:32 PM']I have to say I like the white pearl on there. It might look a bit [i]too[/i] black with a black guard. [i]Cream[/i] Pearl would look fab.[/quote] Indeed. I prefer the contrasting guard (and the chrome hardware) to the all black ones - makes it look more like......a MusicMan!

+1 on all the above (except water of tyne's...). IMO the Jazz is all about treble & versatility and flats don't complement either as much as rounds do.

Thanks for the replies. I had a play through my old amp yesterday and was reminded why I like it so much. I think I'll go the headphones route.

Welcome to the forum. Do you mean there's more to London than SE?????

Not quite sure where to put this pic but I've just added a varitone switch that's made it truly versatile. Two EB humbuckers (blended tone is fantastic) along with a very good modern sounds from the varitone mid cut as well as some speaker destroying lows. I'm well pleased with it - a hundred and fifty quid all in for a bass that's more versatile (and easier to play) than my Precision with added Jazz pickup. Main thing is it looks rather good...

[quote name='tischbein' post='613048' date='Sep 30 2009, 04:45 PM']Anyone ever have one of their basses defretted... I mean a good job, no home-made crap.[/quote] There are probably allot of people on this forum who could do a very nice defretting job at home... It's probably worth asking their opinion too.

Thanks for the replies. The reason I want a flat, uncoloured sound is because I want a clear idea of the differences changes to pickups, electronics and hardware/construction really make. I think at least some build aspects of bass guitars have come about because of half truths, assumptions, guesses and hearsay, so if I'm working with a flat, wide response, I know I'm listening to nuances of the instrument rather than the amp & speakers. PA gear asides, could something like a SansAmp be able to produce a flat response - maybe into a set of studio monitor type headphones???

I'm getting increasingly into the science behind the design and construction of bass guitars and whilst I love using my vintage valve 4x10 combo, I don't think I'm getting an accurate, flat response from it. In short, I'm worried it's making my basses sound better than they really are (or worse!!!). I have a Behringer V-Bass as well, but that doesn't give a flat response either. I heard MarkBass are good for a pure, flat tone but you often hear moans about the speakers they use. I'd go the head/cab route if need be, even a pre & power setup. Anyone got an opinion????

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='612357' date='Sep 29 2009, 08:24 PM']My £0.02 worth... I've owned painted/lacquered and natural/waxed Warwick Streamer basses and the finish HAS had an affect on tone. I accept that it it could be said this could be down the the individual instrument and or my change in playing style/approach to each instrument BUT I am talking about a sample of over 20 Warwick Streamer basses owned over the last 25 years and they have without exception had a different tone [u]dependent upon finish[/u]. I will add that I know full well that each bass has had some difference in tone (mainly dependent upon pup manufacture) but without exception the painted/lacquered basses had an overall tone that differed from the natural finish. Just my experience of a particular bass manufacturer but hey... the OP asked for opinions. [/quote] Was there a general trend with the solid colour/lacquered? ie. brighter, punchier? Does the the construction or choice of woods differ with solid finished Warwicks? Less neck laminates, cheaper varieties of wood, that sort of thing. If so, that could have a big effect.