henry norton

I've managed to find a bit of time to move this on a bit. I've bound the body, shaped the neck, veneered the headstock and fretted/inlaid the board. The neck's glued on too so I'll soon be ready for the finish.

I've been hankering after some Darkstars to put into my short scale semi but right now it's impossible to find them except at unobtanium prices on fleabay. I know there's a Swedish guy who's looking into remakes and Curt Novak is working on some too but I want mine NOW!!! or at least soon. So, I'm putting my prototype engineering skills to use and will make some myself. I haven't had one to copy directly (Darkstar or Bi Sonic) but there's so much information out there I haven't really had to guess anything yet. The main reason nobody's taken it on 'til now has probably been the tooling to make the bobbin and the polished mounting ring, which could easily run into thousands, but luckily that's the sort of thing I can do. Here's the first model of the bobbin. Next up is the mounting ring. I'll be trying a 5 string version if this one works out

[quote name='The Burpster' timestamp='1349208973' post='1823420'] .....or you can just wait two years and send it off to HG Thor who is renowned as probably the best as this as its his whole business. Oh and incidently Jaco played his work. As I have a neck done by him I can vouch for the his work and the results. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/112736-prs-eb-iv-hg-thor-fretless/page__hl__hg%20thor"]http://basschat.co.u...__hl__hg%20thor[/url] [/quote] Maybe the two years he quotes is to give you time to sell your house, or one of your vital organs....

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1348668948' post='1816703'] How much does that "pour-in" method raise the level of the fretboard though? It looks a pretty thick coat so I guess it's either a huge amount of sanding or you leave the nut at it's original height (i.e. what it was when the frets were in place)? Seems a heck of a lot of work... [/quote] I used to use the multi coat method but found it gave trouble with bubbles and witness marks (vague lines when you inevitably sand through the multiple coats). Casting the board in one is actually quite easy and avoids witness marks and bubbles if you're careful. It also means you only have to mix and handle and cure one batch of epoxy rather than three or four. The final thickness depends on how much you put on in the first place and how much you're willing to sand off afterwards. Up 'til last year I offered a 1mm coating and also a Jaco style 3mm but I never did the 3 for anyone - I think players worried it would make the neck too different to what they were used to. I still mean to do an epoxied maple method/build diary exclusive to Basschat but I haven't got it together to post the pictures as yet

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1347618542' post='1803063'] A sealed 8x10 filled with helium ;-) [/quote] Excellent idea. I'll add a hydrogen filled 8x10 - even lighter than the helium version and capable of some 'explosive' low end, particularly if exposed to naked flames....

Ha! Wine labels Well the video editing seems to spend allot of time focussing on the strings, fingerboard and bridge (possibly the only parts Gasparo didn't fit) instead of his pioneering work on the body profile. It never rains eh, but it's nice to see any bass getting some exposure - if it inspires just one person to take up db it would be worthwhile.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1343152221' post='1746230'] You might not need to move the bridge. For instance I have a 3/4 Tele copy for the kids done some looking about the net and it turns out the bridge to neck pocket is the standard Tele dimension, meaning a tele neck will bolt straight in. Using Stew-macs calculator if it has a 33" scale 21 Fret neck 21st fret is 23.189" from the nut. 34" scale 20 fret neck the 20th fret is 23.291" from the nut. 0.102 of an inch different. Whats that 2MM surely the saddles will have enough adjustment to dial it out. The difference could all be in the neck Edit probably haven't explained that the best [/quote] It might not work that way with this bass. The critical length is from 12th fret to bridge. The bridge needs to be equal or a little longer distance from the 12th fret as the distance from the nut to the 12th. You may have got lucky with your tele in that a replacement, full scale neck would have had a few more frets than the 3/4 size. Most Fender bass necks are 20 fret, 21 fret Fenders usually have an extension to the fingerboard and sit in exactly the same place (harmonically) as the 20. Maybe I was hasty in saying the bridge would need to be moved but it very much depends on the bass being modded. Maybe some pictures would be in order....

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1343150050' post='1746178'] Hmm. I wouldn't sand millimetres off the heel personally. You'll notice the thinning neck when the strings are on and you risk losing the squareness. [/quote] Yeah fair point. It can be done (especially if your string spacing's a bit narrower than usual) but it is allot of work that can easily go horribly wrong.

[quote name='paul torch' timestamp='1343115677' post='1745288'] sorry, just realised how old the question was. [/quote] No worries, it's nice you're taking an interest I'll probably try a back cutout but still don't know whether a front chamfer will look a bit out of place. I understand the slab bodied Gibson's can feel a bit, well, slabby.....

60mm isn't especially narrow - it's a bit narrower than a standard Fender (about 62-63mm) but if you really want to replace the neck it should be possible to sand it to fit. You'd be better off doing that than opening the neck pocket out to fit a standard size Fender neck as the bridge spacing sounds a bit too narrow and you might end up with a big space on the fingerboard either side of the strings. You won't find a neck in 33" scale unless it's a custom build, so you'd probably need to fit a 34" and yes, you'll need to move the bridge back by an inch too. One question to ask yourself, if you're spending big money on a Hipshot bridge and a new neck do you really want to spend time or money getting them fitted to a cheapo (possibly plywood) body? I would recommend you either get hold of a half decent body to make a complete new bass or stick to some simpler mods to your hondo.

4 months! Well, 2.5 years down the line I've finally found a bit of time (I'm waiting on some finishing experiments on Dave's (Rumple's) Fretless maple Jazz), to get on with some prototypes started literally years ago. Most of the heavy woodwork is done now and I'm looking forward to moving them forward to the fixtures and fittings stage. So far they balance well and even the Thunderbird-esque long scale feels light and comfortable. Watch this space....

I can't believe it's been over two years since I started working on this! I still don't have that much time to work on it but whilst I'm puzzling over finish issues with Dave's (Rumple's) Fretless maple Jazz, I thought I'd get on with some woodwork. In spite of how it looks the majority of the work is done and I'm now working on details such as headstock veneers and inlays. This first one will have a Model 1 neck pickup and a Schaller H in the bridge - both black but I'm looking into some chrome/nickel options for the proper vintage effect. It'll be black with cream binding and dots, nice and simple. Since I started this Hagstrom have released the Viking which ticks quite a few of my original boxes but bugger it, I'll carry on with it anyway. The next one I make will be in some interesting veneer and maybe a couple of BiSonics/DarkStars if I can find some....

[quote name='SlapbassSteve' timestamp='1342109133' post='1729764'] All this is making me want a Bronco to mod! Is the pickup literally just the same size as a strat pickup? [/quote] Yes, so far as I know the original Bronco's pickup [i]was[/i] a strat pickup but with the solid cover to hide the oddity of having 6 poles for 4 strings. I've got a Bronco I picked up for sixty quid on fleabay, mint condition. Cheap as chips!!!

Well you've bought a genuine US built Gibson bass which has got to count for something.

Just been to a party so can't think straight. Blocks and binding absolutely essential for a Jazz bass - I prefer rosewood, bound and blocked J boards myself. Dammit, sparkling wine is making it difficult to typer.............. Right, I'll post a good binding provider on here as soon as I can type prooprely

Yeah, not good looking but unique. I like it because it's a bit weird but was designed for a purpose at the time. Looking at the used prices though it's unsurprisingly been tarred with the 'vintage Fender' brush. I wonder how a low B would sit with it.

Yes I know there aren't many out there, but there must be one or two in the hands of Basschatters?

Does anyone here own or ever owned one of these peculiarities? [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:FENDER_BASS_V_view.JPG"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:FENDER_BASS_V_view.JPG[/url] Or knows someone who does for that matter?

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1340379737' post='1703795'] I think that there has been a downturn in modding because there is so much variety now, you can probably find the exact bass you want without having to buy something like it then mod it to suit. I don't mod basses much these days because I think they're just fine the way they are. The only modded one I own now is my G&L Tribute L-2000, and that's a reversible, do no harm mod as it's just a replaced switch and a wiring change. Furthermore, it was worth it because it unlocked a setting not normally available which I happen to think is the nicest sounding one (single inner coils in parallel). There is an element of preserving future value, I won't deny it. But have you seen some of the abortions of stripped and ronsealed P basses from back in the day? Seemed like a good idea at the time? D'oh! Perhaps you have seen how my Gibson Victory Artist arrived - horrible blue refin, silver hammerite on the pickguard, push button mounted in the battery cover which cuts off the battery (which you can't help pressing when playing), and to cap it all off - a "roasted" neck, but done with a blowtorch instead of an oven. So I "unmodded" it. Now it's probably worthless, but to me it's priceless. [/quote] Whatever mods you carry out, no pickups or electronics can duplicate the sound and more importantly, the feel of a short scale, a fretless board, flat wounds or hollow bodies. I still like modding basses but I have a number of short and long scales with a variety of strings because I like the way they're so different - different strings mean different feel means different bass. Sorry if this has already been said but there are 8 pages of posts - I can't read every one!!!!! Edit: by the way I forgot to say neepheid, the reason your Gibson is priceless must be due to the work you put into it, surely not the fact that it's closer to standard. Work's work, whether your modding or un-modding....

According to the Ashdown advert in the latest copy of Bass Guitar Magazine their ABM range was developed using a "57 Jazz" This bass guitar they used was so retro it was made 3 years before the Jazz Bass was actually invented! How cool is that???? I'm off to play my 1948 Precision........

If all you want is a taster then maybe you should get hold of a capo, detune your long scale a couple of steps and capo it at the second fret. That way you get to keep the vintage pickups and cool electronics of your current long scale whilst trying out a short scale tuning. It's not exactly the same as most shorts are a bit lighter and balance differently (not always as well), but it'll give you a good idea of the positions and stretches.

[quote name='poptart' timestamp='1332706418' post='1591992'] Hi - I am sorry if you did not have a chance to try one of these basses at the show - you are welcome to come to my shop any time and try one in a rather more appropriate situation. As a builder you will appreciate that a show is hardly the best environment to try an instrument and as a stand holder it is difficult to monitor who is a genuinely interested party and who is just coming on the stand for a ride ;-) Regards Mark [/quote] [quote name='Sheldon Dingwall' timestamp='1332707865' post='1592022'] Henry, I don't remember this, but if it was me (and it probably was) I apologize. I wouldn't have meant anything personal, just a brain fart on my part. Not cool. [/quote] Fair enough, I appreciate the issues and the replies.

I wish I'd had the time to be able to tell whether I liked Dingwalls or not. When I was at the London Bass Guitar Show earlier this month I had about 20 seconds playing a Dingwalls bass before it was taken off me by someone on the stand. I guess he didn't think I looked worthy of playing one of their £5k basses although to give him his due he did take time to explain the "dual density" body and the theory behind the fanned frets. Unfortunately I wasn't allowed to test the 'theory'. As a maker myself I understand the importance of getting your wares out there and exposed to as many potential or future buyers as possible - obviously the 'professionals' showing the Dingwalls basses figured they knew better.

You can bet that whatever the price there'll always be someone out there willing to pay it 'cos "it's the best".

[quote name='deaver' timestamp='1332158495' post='1583970'] Hardware, looks like earlier Thunderbird electrics and bridge - not sure how I'll replicate this, originals will be out of budget [/quote] Mike Lull and Thunderbucker Ranch do fairly accurate chrome T.Bird replicas. They're still quite pricey (especially Mike's stuff) but nothing like what you'd pay for an original set. Fly guitars [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/"]http://www.flyguitars.com/[/url] is a good resource for comparing/contrasting Gibson bass hardware and features.