Baloney Balderdash

I am pondering getting one of these : A just 25.5" (that is standard Fender guitar scale) scale length bass from Glarry, with the model number GW101, with a narrower neck to fit the small size, that is a just 36mm (Edit!!!: I stated 34mm nut, it is actually 36mm, still more narrow than the standard narrow 38mm nut) nut width, and narrower at the bridge too than regular basses. At the ridiculous low price of just 98.23 Euro or 98.99£. And they get great reviews too. Comes in transparent red or yellow finish as well: I think they look astonishing! If I go through with this and get one it would then be for tuning it in C standard tuning, that it 4 half steps bellow regular guitar E standard tuning. So planning on kind of using it like a baritone tenor guitar. https://www.glarry.co.uk/glarry-gw101-36in-kid-s-electric-bass-guitar-p282.html They are sold out at the moment, but it says a new batch should be ready by June.

I believe they might be a bit brighter sounding than the Elixir, that is unless we are talking Elixir stainless steel strings, which are close to normal uncoated nickel-plated strings in brightness. However the Ibanez coated strings will also sound and feel like poo and in caparison to Elixirs, and as an added bonus they won't last nearly as long as the Elixirs either before they go dead. If I had no fret of fret wear I'd personal go Elixir Nanoweb stainless steel strings. Yes, on the short term they are more expensive, but in the long run you'll end up saving money by buying the Elixirs because of how long they'll last before they go dead and needs changing.

I am pretty certain that the basic point of the OP is following: If you got 1 magnet of a certain given strength, then cut/split it, so that you now got 2 magnets, but not exactly in half (50/50), but lets say one piece is 60% the size of the original magnet and the other piece is 40% of the original magnet's size, will the two pieces then have exactly equal strength or will the piece that is 60% of the original magnet be stronger than the piece that is only 40% of the original magnet, given the strength is measured from a given isolated identical surface area, say the two ends respectively at which they were cut from the bigger original magnet?

Then this pedal probably isn't the right choice for you. Some of Tech 21's all analog offerings (both analog preamp section and analog speaker sim) would be a much better choice for this (I'd recommend the Steve Harris SH-1 pedal, which is much much more versatile than the name might suggest, and definitely not just for metal, or perhaps just the classic VT Bass pedal, for a more compact, if somewhat less versatile option, the QStrip would be a great choice as well, and also offer a huge amount of versatility, even more so than the Steve Harris pedal, but it will require quite a bit of experimentation to dial in right and that you are really familiar with how to use equalization in general (I'd advice against the Bass Driver pedal, as that one got a baked in nasty mid scoop, and being less versatile than even the VT Bass).

You do realize that string action is adjusted at the bridge saddles, not the truss rod, which is supposed to set neck relief, right?

It can be used like that, but honestly you will missing out on 90% of the features and attraction of it, as it will seriously limit the range of it's tweaking/customization capabilities, in which case there might be better/cheaper options on the market. I mean it very much is a one time, or at least only once in while customization tweaking in the software editor, with it connected to your PC, finding your preferred amp model, and IR cab sim and some additional tweaking only possible in the software editor, getting it to sound exactly as you wish, which I'd say it is quite essential. It isn't really meant for constant tweaking. What is the issue, if I may ask, it isn't exactly rocket science to download an app and connect the pedal with an USB cable? Not making use of the software editor would be kind of like buying a pedal but be restricted to only using 10% or so of all the knobs actual range. Or literally like buying 3 amps and 8 cabs, and HPF/LPF pedal, but never using, heck not even trying, the latter, and only ever using 1 of the amps and 1 of the cabs, not even ever just trying out the others as much as just once. So yeah, possible, but kind of a silly waste.

I guess that's the difference between viewing music as a form of entertainment or as an artform. I suppose it can be, and often are, both, but for me personally it is first an foremost an artform, then secondarily a form of entertainment. Other than that I actually also find an inspired artist that have fun performing a lot more interesting, and yes, entertaining too, to listen to than the dreaded sad alternative of a worn out entertainer stuck in their own tired routines.

Thanks. And here's how you share a post: Just press the "Share" icon from the drop down menu in the upper left corner of the post you wish to share, copy ([Ctrl] + [C]) the highlighted link in the pop up box, and then paste ([Ctrl] + [V]) it where ever you desire:

Well, I for one haven't seen that thread, so please throw a link. Looks like a DiMarzio Relentless Neck pickup, at least, and then obvious the stock bridge pickup being replaced with some sort of J pickup, right?

So this is the thread to show off your modded basses. Of course this is just another excuse to get yet another chance to show off my beloved just 28.6" scale length Ibanez Mikro Bass, which I named "Dud Bottomfeeder". So here are the mods done to it: - The outstanding Maple neck with a 12" radius Rosewood fretboard from my December 2010 Chinese production Ibanez GSRM20 Mikro Bass transplanted to the unusually light Mahogany body of a 2017 Indonesia production Ibanez GSRM20B Mikro Bass. - The stock pickups pulled out, the P pickup replaced for an EMG Geezer Butler P pickup soldered directly to the output jack socket, and the J pickup replaced with a folded piece of black cardboard. - The stock side mounted barrel type output jack socket pulled out and replaced with a regular jack socket (the one EMG included with the Geezer P pickup), mounted in one of the redundant pot holes. - The stock knobs on the 2 remaining pots changed and replaced with 2 transparent and black lampshade knobs, to which cut to shape pieces of respectively green and red colored electrical tape (also known as insulating tape) has been applied to the top of. - Pieces of red electrical tape has been applied to the top of the P pickup. - A Jack Skellington (character from Tim Burton's animated movie "The Nightmare Before Christmas") skull sticker has been applied to the body above the bridge. - Small stickers that came with the Sherman Filterbank 2 filter/synth I once owned has been applied to the headstock. (also the stock black bridge mounting screws has unintentional been replaced, since this otherwise original stock bridge at some point had been transplanted to the original body of the neck. Ah, yeah, the intonation screws and springs of the 2 upper strings has been replaced by the way too, by two regular chrome colored screws and springs, rather than the stock black ones, as I used those for another bass, but actually quite like how that looks.) And here is the beast itself (respectively the most recent shot, and a slightly older but much better shot): By the way equipped with Elixir Nanoweb coated nickel-plated roundwound hex steel core guitar strings, of the gauges .080 - .062 - .046 - .036, threaded through the cut off ball ends of old bass strings to not fall through the bridge string mounting holes (2 black ones for the 2 lower strings, with the black intonation screws, respectively, and 2 brass colored ones for the 2 upper strings, with the chrome colored intonation screws, respectively), and tuned to G standard tuning, that is 3 half steps above regular 4 string bass E standard tuning.

Yes they can, and yes they should. Rather listen to the record, listen to the record.

I never mentioned that I was celebrating anything, nor with Burzum, I just shared a Burzum song on the occasion of the celebration currently going on, pretty much world wide, of Jesus's death, just like I wrote.

The Jazz would have looked genuinely great with a slimmer horn, as is though, in my opinion that extended horn looks really bulgy and ugly.

Aren't that what we are celebrating at the moment?

The Behringer BDI21, as is the case with the original Tech 21 Bass Driver pedal that it is a clone of, sucks the mids right out of your tone, and there is really no way to dial the mid scoop out with where it lies (just about 800Hz, exactly what you need for definition) and how the Low and High control acts, unless you dial in so much clean via the blend knob that the pedal as a preamp basically becomes completely obsolete as other than simply a DI box. If you happen to enjoy the dull inarticulate mud and fizziness of scooped mids for some bizarre reason though it's otherwise actually a great pedal that is basically indistinguishable from the real deal (meaning the Tech 21 Bass Driver pedal).

This might help some (more specifically the video of the specific post in the thread linked to):

On the occasion of the celebration of Jesus's death:

Agree! In fact I don't know why they even bother making 5 string basses. No sane person play them anyway, right? At least if they did they would definitely want 16.5mm string spacing. Did that answer your question?

Well, the EMG Geezer Butler P pickup is modled after an original 60's era Fender P pickup, so at least some vintage 60's voiced P pickup with Alnico V pole pieces, and with an approximately matching DCR value of 11.20 kOhm, like the Geezer P, would be a good place to start. Other than that I can't really help. I too am a big EMG GZR P fan though.

A 2mm Nylon one would be even warmer sounding. Tortex and even more so Ultex is pretty bright and clicky sounding.

Update :

Different pick material sounds different too, beyond the mere thickness and flexibility, Nylon picks for example will sound much warmer than Tortex. In fact the material the pick is made of has a quite substantial effect on the tone you get out of it as said beyond mere thickness/gauge and flexibility. As for what OP speaks about, yes, I can definitely obtain a fuller more rich and complex tone using fingers than pick (I am personally not into really deep, fundamental dominated bass tones, and not what I am speaking of here either, I don't dig in deep, I sort of merely stroke the strings, rather than striking or plucking them really), but I actually think wanting to make pick sound like finger playing is kind of missing the point, I for one actually also love that aggressive snappy emphasis on the attack unique to pick playing, that you simply really can't get with your fingers. I do however find it a big challenge to dial in a base tone that works optimally for both finger and pick playing, in fact simply impossible, and I if one tries it will always end up resulting in a compromise, making neither approach really sound it's absolute best (I know cover players really don't have that luxury of being able to pick (pun actually not intended) one over the other, but in that case I've found that generally adding more compression, but with a relatively long attack time to let the full transient of the pick attack through (to emphasize the attack, rather than attenuate it), and drive helps with getting a better pick tone). My main point though being that if I use a pick it is because I want it to sound like I am using a pick, if i use my fingers it is because I want it to sound like I am using my fingers. And trying to make either sound like the other is bound to end up with a less satisfactory, far less than optimal/ideal, result. At the moment, personally, fingers win, but as said I do love that specific tone that you can only get by using a pick too. Also a warning: Don't buy rubber picks (and yes, I have tried several different gauges and hardness/flexibility grades) in an attempt to make your picking sound like finger playing, it will give you absolutely all the worst qualities of pick playing, with non of the actual advantages of pick playing, and all the absolute worst aspects of finger playing, but with non of the advantages of finger playing, and it'll really sound nothing like neither, but very much like absolute donkey donkey (not to be confused with the David Bowie album "Hunky Dory"), just completely and utter rubbish (pun fully intended), if you ask me. Edit/Update!: I've changed my opinion on rubber picks, and now my go to picks, when not using my fingers, is a Dunlop Tortex .60mm and a Wedgie Soft 3.1mm rubber pick. depending. As said it sound neither quite like a pick, or like fingers, which I guess was what put me up at first, but it does have got its own unique kind of tone going on for it, with a more mellow roundness to it, that I've come to like for some stuff