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Baloney Balderdash

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Everything posted by Baloney Balderdash

  1. Just get an all brand Harley Benton P Bass! Seriously! The Harley Benton GuitarBass Vintage Series that I bought had a graphite nut, and that with perfectly cut nut slots from stock, how often do you encounter that on a stock instrument even at a much higher price range. The fretwork was practically perfect, I have t set up with about 1.8mm (~ 0.07" <5/64") at 12th fret on the lowest string and about 1.4mm (~0.055" <4/64") at 12th fret highest string, with a very minimal, basically flat, neck relief, and there is not fret buzz anywhere whatsoever. The stock pickups sounded great, and I feel no need to upgrade. It feels, plays and sounds amazing, and the finish was flawless. Their basic P Bass sounds great too, and if you should be unlucky to get a dud one just return it within 30 days with shipping costs covered by Thomann and get another one send to you or all your money back. Harley Benton PB-20 SBK Standard Series : https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_pb_20_sbk_standard_series.htm 111£ Or for just 4£ more with an additional bridge J pickup: https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_pj_4_sbk_deluxe_series.htm
  2. Johanna Elina Sulkunen - VIII Layers :
  3. So you don't know what the common expression "amp-less setup" mean, despite me meticously explaining exactly what that does imply, and your intention of consistency of tone, which I, obviously wrongly, though was your main objective, is not relevant or important, right... And you chose to focus on single words, which you insist to misinterpretate, rather than reading what I wrote in its actual full context. Got it... Sorry for trying to help you.
  4. No, it doesn't. In order to that you need full frequency flat response cabinet or PA speaker. In combination with a preamp and poweramp or preamp and active PA combination will do that exactly, just like I explained. Any reason it has to be a regular amp, seems kind of backwards to me. And why would you need to go through 2 preamps, unless you insist on using a regular amp, for whatever reason, which is beyond me, which will have a preamp build in, unlike a poweramp, like i suggested? It seems to me that you either didn't read what I actually wrote or didn't understand it, cause that is exactly what I explained how to achieve. When I wrote you needed a preamp, it means you need a preamp, not that you need an additional preamp, if you already got one that can drive a poweramp. A regular amp will have a preamp build in, unlike a poweramp. But absolutely most crucial for consistency of tone and for this to work is to run it all though a full frequency flat response cabinet or PA speaker, or, if practicing with headphones, a set of studio grade, that is full frequency flat response, headphones. Exactly as I already wrote once.
  5. Yes, I utilizes and "amp-less" setup, predominantly exactly for the reason you mention, to keep as much consistency as possible tone wise between practicing at home with a high quality set of studio grade headphones, recording, band rehearsal with power amp and full frequency flat response PA speaker, and live going DI to venue PA. Check out my forum profile for a detailed description of my setup: https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/50585-baloney-balderdash/?tab=field_core_pfield_1 What you need for this to work is something that simulates the amp, something that simulates the cab part, and then eventual, to actually to obtain consistency, for home practice somekind of headphone amp, for example a mini mixer, and a studio grade set of proper quality approximately full frequency flat response headphones, and for band rehearsal a power amp and then an approximate full frequency flat response cab or PA speaker, or active PA speaker.
  6. These simple rubber washer strap locks works great, these specific ones are Harley Benton, which are the cheapest, though they don't cost much regardless, and Fender and Ernie Ball makes identical ones, comes in grey color too: Works like this: Super easy to put on and take off, but as said works really great and effective.
  7. Then I'd suggest calling a Doctor and getting it removed ASAP!
  8. Absolutely horrendous bad taste.
  9. From Denmark! The title means "Friend" in respectively Kurdish and Danish, and the lyrics is in both Kurdish and Danish. She's Danish/Turkish/Kurdish.
  10. J Bass is not really my idea of a bass, and certainly even less is your tone, too burpy and thin sounding to my liking, but looking beyond that fact the stock bridge to me does sound better. More top end definition and better overall articulation, the high mass bridge sounds dull and inarticulate in comparison, almost like dead strings.
  11. Learn chords and scales, and practice improvising/writing bass lines on the spot.
  12. HoTone MP-300 Ampero II Stomp!
  13. Behringer GDI21, Tech 21 GT2 clone, for distortion (or alternatively Behinger HD300 Heavy Distortion, Boss MD-2 Mega Distortion clone) : Behringer SF300 Super Fuzz, for fuzz. Joyo Orange Juice, for overdrive.
  14. I really like these knobs, PRS ACC-4246 Lampshade Knobs Clear : Though at the moment with a piece of respectively red and green electrical tape (also known as insulating tape) cut out to fit the top of each knob, like this:
  15. As the title says this is the thread to flash those of your basses that are equipped with a tortoise pickguard! Used to hate sunburst finish, and especially tortoise pickguards, but after I got this Harley Benton GuitarBass (take on the Fender Bass VI concept, though, with its much flatter fretboard radius and fixed TOM style bridge, really having more in common with the Schecter Hellcat VI), that doesn't come in other finish option, it has really grown on me, and I actually really like how it looks now, at least on this instrument:
  16. One that would be capable of running standard VST effects, and multi parallel processing.
  17. I actually really like the visual design of these basses.
  18. @barrycreed That's a matter of personal taste isn't it? I personally happen to love clanky and bright big piano/chime like bass tones. But if the person who asked the question doesn't like that, then no, probably not other single coil P pickups either then, they traditionally have rich upper mids and high end, the Quarter Pounder is just a little more extreme and with a bit more mids overall. Also I would think that since the pole pieces are much bigger on the Quarter Pounder pickup it would work fine, even with the Bronco's slightly more narrow string spacing (standard 19mm vs Bronco 17mm), pole pieces of pickups doesn't have to line up perfectly for the pickups to still work flawlessly, the magnetic field that picks up the string vibrations reach a good bit beyond merely the pole pieces radius, with regular single coil P bass pickups, which would have smaller pole pieces, you might be right though, maybe not so much. Also just to clarify to the one who asked the question, most short scale basses will have regular standard 19mm string spacing, with a few exceptions, the Bronco being one of those with a couple of mm more narrow spacing, namely 17mm.
  19. I would personally stick to a single coil pickup, like the original stock one is, and would properly more specifically go for a single coil '51 P/Tele Bass pickup, and if you absolutely want high output then the Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder single coil P pickup, which unlike all the other Quarter Pounders actually have quite a big mid content and isn't scooped at all, which I personally appreciate (perosnally I would go for a lower output, more classic voiced, single coil '51 P/Tele bass pickup though). If you insist on getting a humbucker I know that the Seymour Duncan Hot Rails Strat pickup is a quite popular pickup upgrade for the Bronco Bass.
  20. Death To Everyone by Bonnie "Prince" Billy
  21. Bridge tail piece string anchoring point to nut is about 82cm on the Harley Benton GuitarBass, that is about 32", so yeah 100cm is probably a wee too short to be able to reach and wrap properly around the last couple of tuning pegs for the higher strings. But the Daddario EXL157, gauge .014 - .018 - .026 - .044 - .056 - .068 , baritone string set will fit (the thinner gauge D'Addario baritone set will not, too short), and ought to be pretty much perfect gauges for A standard tuning on a 30" scale instrument, like the Harley Benton GuitarBass (I've seen a couple of YouTube videos where this set was used on a Squier Bass VI, which needs even longer strings, for this purpose exactly, that is A standard tuning, A to A). Otherwise I can warmly recommend having a custom set made by Newtone, they are even an UK business: https://newtonestrings.com/ https://newtonestrings.com/shop/custom-string-configurator/
  22. If I was you I'd probably move the stock pickup to the neck position and install a Nordstrand Big Baldeman in the old bridge pickup cavity. Or, actually.... If I really was you I would make a middle position pickup cavity (traditional P pickup position) and just relocate the stock pickup there and call it a day, but that was not what you asked about, so...
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