Baloney Balderdash

Is the switchable speaker sim only on the XLR out or is it on the jack out too on the Monomyth?

Try, instead of striking or pulling the strings, to just lightly stroke them with a slight inwards slapping motion, using only the outmost tip of your fingers/nails. Or use the index and/or middle finger flamenco guitar flicking style technique, which when you get this down properly would actually allow you to pick the strings faster than with a pick. This ought to give you more emphasis of the attack. These two approaches to finger picking strings require a quite large amount of precision though, and as with most techniques are rather tricky to get right to start with, but with just 2 x 5 minutes or so focused practice of them per day consistently you'll have them down pretty decently after just a couple of months or so, and you should be able to actually practically apply them to your playing after just a month or so with just 10 minutes focused daily practice.

Be careful my Virus program picked up and blocked a fishing attempt when I clicked on the first link.

Was that question aimed at me? I play both. But always considered bass my main instrument of choice. At the moment though my main bass is tuned in tenor bass, A standard, tuning, which I know for instance Victor Wooten makes use of frequently, but especially Stanley Clarke makes wide use of. As far as I am concerned perfect for the just 28.6" scale length of the 4 string Ibanez Mikro Bass that I love playing and use for this. From the WikiPedia article about Bass Guitar tunings: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_guitar_tuning Obviously not suited for covering a traditional bass player role in a band context, but perfect for melodic/solo work, as well as being well suited for doing chords, but while also still actually sounding great playing more traditional transposed bass lines on, making a sort of hybrid guitar/bass approach suited when playing such a bass to make full use of its capabilities/possibilities. I guess more so taking on a role of a low tuned Tenor Guitar, rather than a traditional bass role, but the instrument still technically being categorized as a Bass Guitar, hence the name Tenor Bass. So while I do play both Guitar and Bass Guitar, and my current main instrument still is categorized as a Bass Guitar, I suppose you could argue that with how it is strung and tuned at the moment I play neither, but rather a low tuned Tenor Guitar, or more specifically a Tenor Bass Guitar. Just like the Bass Ukulele is typically being tuned in fourths, rather than fifths, as you would otherwise traditionally tune a Ukulele or Tenor Guitar. The WikiPedia article on Tenor Guitars: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenor_guitar

I've changed my setup once again, so this is what makes up my core basic "clean" tone of my "amp-less" setup: But while the NUX MLD Bass Preamp got the main preamp duties in this setup, and I am actually really happy with what it does, and while the ART Tube MP Project Series tube preamp got the DI duties, I would say that the EHX Black Finger, which I kind of more so use as a tube preamp stage than a compressor, really, would be my favorite preamp overall, having been an integrated part of my core basic clean tone setup for both bass and guitar, through various different setups, for as long as I've owned it, which is about 20 years. Just makes anything you put through come out sounding better on the other side, and takes my tone from great to amazing, adding tube warmth and harmonic complexity and depth to it, as well as a touch of tube breakup grid when I am digging in. Here it is: And yes, I know it is dirty as hell, but as said it is 20 years old, have been all sort of places and been stomped on with shoes on, while it has never been cleaned beyond the occasional vacuum cleaning, and also the photo enhancement applied to the image actually made it look worse than it really is, just pretend that it is 100% pure magic mojo tone sauce.

I feel like I should probably add that this is so to partially follow the radius of the fretboard but while also accounting for the fact that thinner strings compared to thicker strings of about the same tension will require less space to vibrate and therefor making adjusting them for lower action possible. This goes for when adjusting bridges with individual height adjustment for each string too, that is that ideally the strings should form an arc of ever so slightly lower radius (more curve) than the fretboard, but tilting slightly downwards towards the high G string.

A regular credit card makes for an excellent fret rocker, long side for the frets closest to the headstock, short side for frets closest to bridge. Placing the edge of the credit card across 3 frets at a time parallel with the strings and gently trying to rock it back and forth, and if it rocks just the tiniest amount it means that one of the frets are too high/low, depending.

I've had this before, and turned out it was the strings behind the nut that rattled, I assume because that specific note fretted at that specific spot on the fretboard caused them to resonate, and because that string didn't have enough break angle behind the nut, tying a hairband tight over across the strings just behind the nut fixed this issue completely. Next time I changed strings again I made sure that that specific string was long enough so that it was wrapped up lower on the tuning peg, which resulted in a greater break angle, and that fixed the issue without any need to tie that hairband over the strings behind the nut. Check your witness points at nut and bridge, that is the strings breaking at a sharp angle in front and behind the saddles and nut, and if it is set, or that setting it doesn't fix the issue, try doing what I did, with a hairband or similar, and see if that fixes it.

Long Distance Runaround - Yes

Thing though is that the frequency points for the Treble and Bass controls is set so that is cutting them and dialing up the volume instead equates to boosting the mid frequency around a center frequency of about 400Hz, whereas the huge mid scoop of the pedal happens around a center frequency of about 800Hz, so there is not really any way you can effectively dial you out of the baked in mid scoop of pedal, except for dialing down the blend, but then you will be bypassing a big part of the reason you would have it on in the first place. Clever design, let's force mid scoop on everyone. And further more to make it even worse the frequency spectrum around 800Hz or so is what normally helps giving your bass tone better definition, preventing your bass from getting lost in the mix. In all fairness Tech 21 did add a way to to circumvent this issue by including a sweepable mid control on the V2 of this pedal, but unfortunately Behringer doesn't make a clone of that pedal.

Sweepable mid control even. I pondered on trying it out, but has never gone through with it course I couldn't really find any information anywhere about how well it works for electric bass. You don't happen to have any recordings demonstrating it?

While I'd love a "Potato Potato" pedal it sounds like it possibly would have more in common with the Korg Miku pedal than the "Wah Wah" pedal, like the Western expression pedal format version of the Miku pedal. What I'd love even more though would be a "Tomato Potato" pedal, with modes reflecting all possible combinations of the two vegetables, including accounting for the two different pronunciations each respectively from that famous song. I got a feeling we would make a great pedal concept designer team. You provide the basic concepts, I elaborate on them, and the pedal engineering team makes them a reality.

Just slap on a BBOT bridge, £8.50 at Thomann, almost a 100 times cheaper, or how about a brand new Thomann cello for just £345, cause tonewood is a lie elitists made up to make profit on people who suffers from hearing delusions, and you don't want to be a cork (and probably other more questionable substances too) sniffer, do you? On a serious note, glad I chose electric bass, though honestly I always wanted an upright acoustic one.

Does they sound good? Cause I've heard their sister brand Fecal are supposed to sound like poop.

In Memory of the Truth - Coil

What was wrong with the stock bridge? And I never got why cloth covered wiring is a thing, when plastic insulated shielded wiring (that is the ground running as a braided shield all along the insulated hot wire) is much better, at least from a noise eliminating viewpoint. And yes, plywood can be as good as any other solid types of wood for guitars and basses.

Sennheiser HD 380 Pro Use them for everything music related, listening to music, practicing bass, recording/tracking, mixing and mastering. Also gaming and watching movies/series. Really well balanced and very close to FRFR, so what I hear is what I get and what I get is what I hear. Seriously need a new set of replacement earpads and cable though, at the moment I use a haphazardly hack job attached earpads that I pulled off a pair of cheap headphones I had lying around and a patched and soldered together cable for them. But they are like 20 years old, and the earpads and cable held up fine until relatively recently, and otherwise they work as perfectly as when I bought them.

"Bass amps are like pickled onions, you always know it's gonna taste like vinegar" - Woody Lump -

My main objective with utilizing an "amp-less" setup and using a FRFR speaker has always predominantly been having a consistent tone regardless of whether I am practicing at home with a pair of proper studio grade FRFR headphones, rehearsing or jamming with band through my FRFR speaker, or gigging playing live through a given venue's PA system.

I like the pickguard as it is! Please don't change it. I've always wanted a transparent pickguard where you could see the guts of the bass, and I think it even suits this bass particularly well.

Rose Clouds of Holocaust - Death in June

Well, that was my whole point with that reply, it was a response to your comment, hence why I quoted it. The first part of the sentence being: Sure (meaning yes), if... [as you said + elaborating] The second part of the sentence being: But if (my perspective)... [elaborating] + then: [my point] Just elaborating on what you said, really, as in explaining why you would set the HPF one or the other way, which you didn't really, and then presenting the opposite perspective as well.

My "amp-less"/FRFR setup: