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Baloney Balderdash

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Everything posted by Baloney Balderdash

  1. Scarf joint is at the head side end of the neck, and a way to make a sturdier tilt back headstock, set neck relates to the neck pocket end of the neck. This is how a scarf join looks, as said a way to make a stronger tilted headstock :
  2. Didn't notice that before, but taking a closer look at the pictures again I think you are probably right, the supposed "finish crack" does follow where the scarf joint of the neck would be glued on suspiciously closely. I mean it is of course technically still a finish crack, just quite a bit more than just that, and would definitely not be the main issue here, but rather more of a symptom, if the scarf joint parting is really the actual culprit to it (which honestly seems very likely).
  3. Well, while the neck is bending upwards on the first picture the actual bow is bending downwards, making is a downward bow. I might be wrong, but I think this description of this illustration is semantically wrong. As far as I know bend and bow would not mean the exact same thing in this context. Regardless if with good reason or not I obviously misunderstood what you meant. Just to let you know I am honestly not nit picking or trying to be contrary here, I honestly misunderstood what you wrote. And yes, going by the top drawing of that illustration tightening the truss rod would definitely be the right measure to take, regardless of how you word it.
  4. Loosen the truss rod sufficiently to let the string tension straighten the upward bow, as is what you are supposed to do. Truss rod will bow upwards when tightened, fixing a downward bow, but making an upward bow even worse. I think perhaps the confusion is down to you confusing upward bow with upward bending neck, which is not the same, when the neck bows upwards the neck will bend downwards on each side of the upward bow?
  5. Could you please elaborate? Huh as in that was not what you meant with up-bowing neck, or huh you think I am wrong (which I with 100% certainty am not)?
  6. My Aria Pro II Laser Electric Classic, my first bass ever, which partially can just be spotted in the corner of the manipulated photo of my Harley Benton GuitarBass of the OP, with colored metallic star stickers and a stripe of faded once neon green tape that I ironically applied long ago when I was young and stupid. Though I do actually think it does have a certain charm to it. But ideally I really ought to strip the finish off and paint the bass matte black instead, never been a fan of white finishes for basses and guitars and have no idea why I chose to buy it back then regardless (used around the mid 90's, the bass it self from the 1986 production, which makes it one of the last models made on the legendary Matsumoku factory in Japan, before Aria moved the production to Korea), it is a pretty amazing bass though, both plays and sound really great. Here it is:
  7. It's getting increasingly popular with an "amp-less" setup, so that is an option too. Here you can find some inspiration for that: An "amp-less" setup gives several advantages over a traditional bass amp/bass cab setup, for one allowing for more precise tailoring of your tone, it will also give you a much more consistent tone whether you practice at home with headphones, at band rehearsal with FRFR cab/PA speaker, or at live gigs through the given venue's PA system, and finally when able to use bands/venues PA system it will be a whole lot easier to transport around.
  8. If the neck had an upward bow tightening the truss rod would have been the diametrical wrong way to go too, which would only had worsened the problem.
  9. In my experience the regular Tortex have a tendency to go curvy as well after a while, never experienced that with any Nylon picks that I've used. However it's not really an issue for me, they are still perfectly useable, if only from one of the two sides, and they do give a significantly different tone than Nylon picks, so unless you are not going for any specific tone it's not as simple as just using a pick of any other material instead. In my experience material, gauge and flexibility/stiffness of a given pick are all factors that have a relatively significant impact on the tone of your bass.
  10. And yet once again, again, I've changed my mind. While the combination of different finger picking techniques is still vast superior (diversity of tones you can get just from applying different techniques at different picking/plucking spots, the speed of utilizing the index and/or middle finger flicking flamenco style technique, as well as the ease of muting single strings that you don't want to ring) in pretty much every other aspect than the ability to palm mute and the array of graduate muted tones this allows for, I currently now actually tone wise prefer what I get from using the orange Dunlop Tortex .60mm pick :
  11. Clearly he mean 100ft vertically, how he became so highly elevated above all us other mere mortals. We cannot with our simple Earthly equipped minds do us any hopes whatsoever of even just remotely begin to fathom what his divine sensory perception of reality is like, transcending reality it self as it does. Levitation is just but a trivial display of a mere faction of the true magnitude of other-worldly powers this genuine God of Tone possesses. Genesis 1:31 of the Tone Bible : "joel406, The God of Tone, levitated 100 to 150 feet upwards to properly judge and take joy in the superlatively sublime splendour of his EQ settings, and He saw everything that He had made, and behold, it was very good and He validated it completely"
  12. You can get HoTone Ampero II Stomp for the same price, actually even ever so slightly under, what a Line6 POD GO costs, and it is way more powerful, for one it allows for parallel effect processing, which the POD GO doesn't, and the modeling is higher quality too (though I guess that will always be debatable, the CPU at least is more powerful than even the Line 6 Helix multi effects).
  13. No thanks. I am not a particular fan of mud and fizz, and prefer at least some degree of articulation and definition. Thanks for your suggestion though. I'd consider it if I should ever find myself in the strange situation of wanting my bass to sound like a wet fart. Also those outer sliders on that graphic EQ pedal are actually shelfing filters, so they'll already form a gradual curve no matter how you set them.
  14. This thread might help you get some ideas: Personally I can warmly recommend the NUX Melvin Lee Davis Bass Preamp + DI (NBP-5) :
  15. The trick is using studio grade, that is FRFR, headphones, and not those horrible regular so called "hi-fi" headphones that boost the bass and otherwise has a baked in so called "enhanced" EQ profile/uneven frequency response, so what you hear is actually also how your signal really sounds. I can't listen to music now on regular headphones that boost and cut all kind of frequencies messing up how the music was actually mixed and supposed to sound after I got used to listening to the approximate neutral reproduction of my Sennheiser studio headphones. Those headphones might be good for 112 kb/s MP3 electronic dance music, but it sounds like utter crap for everything else.
  16. 2 (but with the resistance still being adjustable and with the option for still bypassing it) And yes, I do realize the differences will be quite subtle, and that no one cares, but I do.
  17. I haven't got any personal first hand experience with the Dimaezio Model J J pickups, but I see a lot of mention on how they are the most P like J pickups on the market, which makes sense since they are a split coil design just like P pickups are. That is having two in line coils on each half of the pickups connected in series, which also means that they are hum cancelling. Now, while they might be the most P like J pickups on the market, they won't sound exactly like P pickups, since the coils are smaller and not least slimmer, as well as the two coils/halves are not shifted in relation to each other as on a regular P pickup but rather in line with each other, just that they do have some P like qualities. So yes, I would expect a bit more bottom end, or at least a somewhat tighter bottom end, a bit more mids content, a bit less top end, less bite and burb and a bit more snap and punch generally, as well as, compared to regular vintage voiced J pickups, higher output and more aggression, also partially due to this pickup being based on a Ceramic bar magnets and steel pickup pole pieces construction, rather than featuring Alnico 5 rod magnet pickup pole pieces as otherwise traditionally used. Mind that all of above for most parts is based alone on me listening/watching/reading demos, comparison videos, reviews and general blurb featuring the DiMarzio Model J pickup, and that I, as said, do not have any personal first hand experience with these pickups.
  18. I think a few people confuse, or at least need to define, the difference between neutral, clean and sterile, cause, while those words do share some overlapping connotations and sometimes annotations, they definitely do not have the exact same meaning/denotation, as well as they, especially in the context of music amplification, rarely share the exact same annotations.
  19. Have you actually tried this yourself, or is it a solution you just came up with off the top of your head, cause as I understand what you just wrote I can see several potential issues with this that wouldn't make it work very well in practice?
  20. Not a strap solution, but this might solve your neck diving issues: As some people note later in the thread linked to above adding the small weight inside the control cavity is an option too.
  21. For me the main attraction of an "amp-less" setup. That is much more precise/detailed control over tailoring your tone, as well as much more consistency between respectively your home headphones practice, band rehearsal through a FRFR cab or FRFR PA speaker, and live gig venue PA, tone.
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