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Baloney Balderdash

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Everything posted by Baloney Balderdash

  1. Believe it or not but mine was that exact same version of the Jerry Jones Neptune Longhorn Bass (there has been a few slightly different versions), even in black finish too! (it's the one with just a volume knob and then a 4 position rotating pickup selector switch, with the 4th position being both pickups in series, right?)
  2. What your music teacher doesn't want you to know... - but this is no clickbait scam! : Ain't that the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth!
  3. I have actually toyed with the idea of adding a pickguard to my beloved Ibanez Mikro Bass, which doesn't come with any form of pickguard from stock. Either identical to the one of the Ibanez SR Mezzo, as that one has the same basic body shape as the Mikro and both have a P/J pickup configuration as well, though the Mikro P is reverse orientation, the Mezzo is not, also the Mikro body being scaled down to fit it's just 28.6" scale length, or a semi (kind of crooked) circle one, just covering the area where the controls are. The issue however is getting the exact measurements and making a precise template, for it to be possible having a custom pickguard made. But if I can somehow solve that issue I might order one in the future. In any case a amazing concept and service to offer. Thanks for making me aware of the existence of this.
  4. I think the Danelectro Longhorn has a string spacing of 17mm at bridge as well, if my memory serves me right. Edit!!: seems I was on the wrong page and answered an old reply, but fits in nicely with the current discussion, so I'll let it be.
  5. Yeah, I would definitely not call the inherent character of the Danelectro Longhorn thuddy either, not the slightest. Surprisingly full, and actually pretty amazing, sounding. And plenty sustain too. I am sure though that it could do a mighty thud equipped with flatwounds and a foam mute, but not how it sounds stock with roundwounds at all in my experience.
  6. Well, different brands and models of strings, even if the same basic type, tends to be made a little differently (small variation in the composition and treatment of the alloys used, how tight they are wound, core thickness and shape e.t.c), so it is recommendable to stick to one brand and type/model of strings for one set/instrument, for a more consistent feel and tone.
  7. D'Addario, if that is your preferred string brand, do make individual purchasable single regular nickel-plated roundwound strings made to fit a regular 34" scale bass of the gauges .030, .032 and .035 . Of those the gauge .032 one will be the closest match to the set you mention tension wise. It will be slightly lower tension than the other strings in the set, but the highest string of bass string sets usually is, better than it being higher tension than the rest, as thin strings with too much tension has a tendency to dig into your finger, and actually feel stiffer than thicker strings of similar tension, as well as they won't need as much room to vibrate either compared to thicker strings of similar tension. Also a gauge .032 string is pretty much standard for the high C of 6 string bass sets.
  8. Not the best quality photos, but anyway, here we go: Headstock of my Aria Pro II Laser Electric Classic : Headstock of my Harley Benton GuitarBass : Headstock of my Ibanez Mikro Bass :
  9. I got mine ridiculously cheap from a local 2nd hand music gear shop back around the mid 90's. I think 2.500 Danish Kroner was what I paid back then, which equals approximately 300 British Pound.
  10. I don't own any tube amps currently, well unless you count preamps, but back when I did own a 60W all tube Ampeg B-15S from 1968, which I very much regret being stupid enough to sell at some point, I used a Boss MT-2 Metal Zone, as my only pedal, for high gain distortion. Today my setup is "amp-less" and my pedal setup is rather expansive and complex, the Metal Zone however is still part of my main high gain setup (though now with a low gain overdrive stacked into it and then blended in parallel with a Turbo RAT clone). But if I still had the Ampeg I would still have had used more or less the exact same expansive pedal setup as I do currently, except from the NUX Melvin Lee Davis signature preamp, that also functions as a DI and IR cab sim loader, which basically is what I use in place of an actual amp currently (well my EHX Black Finger, tube driven optical compressor, is also a huge part of my current "amp-less" tone, but it would most likely still be an always on effect even if I had been using a tube amp). I actually happens to in fact be rather satisfied with my current "amp-less" tone, but damn I wish I hadn't been that stupid selling my 1968 Ampeg B-15S, such a legendary, amazing looking, and not least amazing sounding amp.
  11. First of all that's quite a list of highly subjective opinions there that has very little to do with actual facts. Also how exactly does that help OP? Further more Victor Wooten uses a regular 34" scale bass as his tenor bass (as said the official term for this kind of A1 to C3 tuning on a 4 string bass guitar), and he seems to be doing quite okay, despite maybe not being quite as much of a real bassist as you from your perspective. Regardless a gauge .065 string still makes little sense on a 34" scale, or a 30" scale for that matter, instrument for tuning to G, regardless of octave (it will, as I said, end up respectively either unplayably tight or unplayably floppy), and regardless of how much of a real man and bassist you might not might not be (I'll let however you even are supposed to grade that up to you).
  12. 85 and certainly 90 seems a little tight to me for tuning A1, and in comparison to those A string gauges .030 seems a little floppy for tuning to C3, certainly not very balanced tension wise. I mean not ridiculously so, but certainly wouldn't be ideal for me personally.
  13. Those gauges that @Hellzero listed makes very little sense to be honest, and certainly not at all in relation to OP's actual question. The gauges seems to suggest a tuning like this (following the tuning listed by Hellzero ) Gauge .145 = A0 Gauge .110 = D1 Gauge .065 = G2 (and honestly that would be ridiculously high tension and tight to the point on not playable, G1 tuning on the other hand would make it ridiculously floppy to the point of not playable, really seems more suited for a D2 tuning) Gauge .032 = C3 I can't think of anyone who would want to tune their bass like that, and as said the gauge .065 tuned to G makes little sense regardless, certainly not what OP asked for, and even if one would use this tuning the suggested gauges would result in a tension wise highly imbalanced set of strings.
  14. Contact mics are not quite as prone to feedback as regular ones. But feedback in general is an issue with acoustic instruments no matter how you chose to amplify them, some methods more so than others though.
  15. The official term for a 4 string bass guitar tuned A to C (as the top 4 strings of a regular B standard tuning tuned 6 string bass) is a "tenor bass" (I realize this is an oxymoron, but non the less the official term, and makes sense when you realize it is actually named after the 4 string instrument that is called a tenor guitar, rather than it's frequency range), Stanley Clarke makes a lot of use of tenor bass both live and on recordings, and got one of his signature alembics always being strung up and tuned this way, similarly such is also part Victor Wooten's standard live arsenal of instruments too, with one of his signature Ying/Yang Foderas always being strung up and tuned this way. I realize I am not really answering your question, but I am really tired, a bit more info in this thread that I started a few weeks back though: But to answer your actual question, yes, whatever strings and gauges you prefer for respectively your A, D and G strings currently, and then something like a gauge .032 or .030 string, depending, for the high C. You can buy strings individually, or get a 6 string set and just use the top 4 strings of the set, and you can compare gauges and tension here (based on D'Addario strings, but will approximate most other brands): https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_guitar_tension_from_size.htm Personally I prefer an as close as possible to perfectly balanced tension between all strings. If you are in doubt of which to chose I would probably recommend a string set made up by respectively gauge .080 - .060 - .045 - .032 regular nickel-plated roundwound steel hex core strings. Nut slots ought to be fine without any issues whatsoever, and by far most likely there will be absolutely no need to cut a new nut, do expect the need for a basic setup though, with truss rod/neck relief, string action, and intonation needing to be (re)adjusted/set.
  16. There's something about the Bronco bass that I always found very attractive, something about the simplistic low-key basic-ness of them that i find extremely charming and appealing, and the only thing that I didn't like in fact being the two saddle bridge, which this version though does fix, and otherwise being a relatively easy and cheap fix anyway, and then it having a few frets too few for my taste, and those last couple of the ones it does have being rather hardly accessible, which still is an issue with this new version and an absolute deal breaker for me. A shame, cause I love just about every other aspect of this design. As is though I will probably end up getting one of those new Mustang, might I said improved Mustang, like basses Harley Benton offers instead. When that is said I think these new updated Bronco basses are cool, and if it just had had easier up frets access I would likely had gotten one at some point. The salmon one especially looks really cool.
  17. Not quite, but I do like having quite an angle to the neck as well as having the body shifted somewhat to my left, makes it easier for me to play at the upper end of the fretboard (that is closer to the bridge), and also puts my right plucking hand naturally closer to the position I want it to be. As my main bass got a scale length of just 28.6" and a really light body, and since I always have it strapped with a rather broad strap that basically will have the bass stay in whatever position I put it in, I do tend to kind of shift its position a bit around depending on what i am playing.
  18. Better than EHX's own Nano reissue of it for sure (yes, I have actually owned that too). Love mine!
  19. His clever way of saying: - People: "But Jaco only needed four strings!" - "Hold my beer..." ?
  20. What you would likely want is one of those tiny flat contact microphones, and one of the good ones of them. Unfortunately I don't have much knowledge as to which are crap and which are great, so can't help you nay further.
  21. No it wouldn't! Look at my updated message above, plenty of great affordable pedal form IR loaders on the market. See the one I suggested in my update of my message. While mini pedal format ones exists too, and most of them would do a great job as well, the one I suggested is particularly great and offer the possibility to run higher quality IR files than most other pedals on the market, even considerably more expensive ones, and it functions as a DI too, and unlike a laptop has latency of under 1ms.
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