Al Heeley

[quote name='Mikey R' timestamp='1331116620' post='1567760'] Heres a question for the chaps and chappettes that know - how many pedals can you daisy chain from a single power supply? [/quote]standard shredfreak adapter and daisychain does 5 standard boss-type compact pedals as a general rule of thumb. If you need more, then you have to look at adapter specs and pedal current requirements to buy something a little more robust.

Yep that makes sense, the wire goes to the input jack, the bit that switches the battery power on when you insert the jack. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6813742236/][/url]

+1 for green scotchbrite pad

My lightly modded Boss pedalboard with gigging pedals plus new addition flanger from Pete - thanks Added a couple extra LED's plus extra dc jack socket to the case for the EHX BMS 24V requirement. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6813409074/][/url]

would expect it to solder onto the ground of the pcb somewhere. I have one at home I can look at later, how accessible are the pedal guts?

first decent volume practice tonight and i left the pedal on the whole time, I'm quite impressed for the money it really does a decent job at tightening up the sound and the dynamics. I'm really not very experienced at the whole comp/limiter thing but you really can't knock this little pedal for the money. If anyone wants to dip an inexpensive toe into the water of compression then i heartily recommend the £27.50 to Dangleberry on ebay for this. At higher volume settings I found the unit more comp-like since it prolongs the decay of the note whereas a pure limiter, i believe, maintains the decay but just knocks off the peaks.

I have an OBD-3 I use to add just a bit of grit in a couple of songs without it being raspy or fuzzy. I have level on 12 o clock, treble on 10 and bass on 2, then balance and gain on 7 or 8 o clock, thats all i need.

I heard it was virtually identical to the Boss LMB-3 unit, rumoured to come from the same factory - maybe a both of marketing myth that Dangleberry like to propagate but the units sure are built better than the Behringer ones. I've heard only good feedback from these budget pedals, as long as you don't expect £200 boutique performance.

...thanks, off to search......plenty of BF-3's about, no BF-2B's, i guess they suit both guitar and bass as there's separate inputs for either....

excellent result, you just sometimes get an instrument with an unstable or very sensitive neck, and end up never satisfied, having to tweak it every time the temperature changes. You saw it through well and got something you should be happy with and confident in.

sounds flangey to me, it has a sort of 'metallic' swirl tone in the upper frequencies. I hear phasers as being a bit more 'woody'.

tube of smarties in the post for the first correct antwort

they should play fantasy bass league on that warmoth site - easy to spend an afternoon dreaming and tweaking if only money was no object....

I'm after that Phil Lynott -Waiting for an alibi - intro sound - is that a flanger or phaser? Sounds like its on pretty high fx level

wheres the vent holes? Is it going to overheat? Will the case start to buckle after 10 gigs bouncing up and down? Isn't the preamp safer sitting on top of your speaker cab?

For the sake of £27 I bought a Dangleberry ebay GLX limiter, modelled on the Boss LMB-3. I imagine this could bring posts of ridicule and derision plus weblinks to "difference between a compressor and a Limiter" articles, (thx I read some of the shorter ones..) but for £27 I thought it was worth a try within the band mix to see if I will gain some benefit from it. You know what, for a real budget pedal, its solid build quality (I have an almost as cheap 7-band GLX eq thats been gigged 18 months now no problem) and it does reinforce and smooth out the sound. The enhance knob is a little noisy adding some top end eq for a percussive slap sound if you want, but thats not a feature of our set. I will give it a few gigs and decide if I need to shell out >£140 on a 'proper' one or just play this cheap GLX one till it expires. The pedal works way better for bass than my homemade dynacomp clone - presumably that's specifically designed for the guitar players. Well worth the outlay.

I have a little Antex 18W iron that does the job ok, some bigger stubborn pots are easier to earth onto with a 25W iron and a larger tip. I have a selection of different sized tips to slot onto the iron so it can do biger stuff as well as fiddly electronics for stompboxes. The irons are about £16 and 3 tips for £10, should be good for a year or three.

I can hopefully answer the blend knob q as i put one on a jb build a few years ago and it did just that, the cheaper blend pots have inaccurate taper so at the mid position both pickups are a little bit under powered and this gives a vol drop. I'd recommend v/v/t config every time for passive pups, only use blend well with actives and a proper on-board pre-amp. I found getting a decent passive blend pot a nightmare till john east helped me out and sent me a 'spare' - what a decent chap! Graphtec nuts are usually very reliable. srewy intonation sounds like inaccurate fret placement, hard one to correct. Hope the bass was not too expensive. Worth forking out for a better quality replacement bridge which might anchor everything more firmly?

..or sledgehammer to crack a nut, get a powersoak to attenuate the decibels while still allowing the amp to 'breathe'

That is brilliant! Thank god we don't have to earn a living trying to sell stuff in chinese....

I was thinking along similar lines. --^-- A small variable resistor in a stompbox as a passive gain reduction would be a 10 minutes solder job to tame the amp, effectively a second independant volume knob between guitar and amp - but it would need a little treble bleed cap and resistor on the pot so you didn't lose the highs on turning down the volume.

post us a pic of the progress xg, thats all we need!

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1330261616' post='1554738'] Surely it can't be this simple - what have I missed? [/quote] no it should be this simple as long as you're ok at soldering - all these footswitches just take mono jacks don't they?

2k too big for glow plate bling. Won't damage the LED's but light may be a bit weak. You need 100 - 150 ohm. 2k is fine for on/off indicator (a bit big maybe, I'd use about 1 or 1.5k)

...oh - and reverse max 5V means thats how much they can stand if the currents flowing the wrong way, how strong they are as a diode.