Al Heeley

That sounds like dan Erlwine's technique to treat digs, iron or soldering iron with damp tea towel, steam passes into the grain of the wood causing it to swell and 'pop' the dent out again. Never been brave enough to try it. That looks like a sharp dint. Is the lacquer surface broken?

but hold on a sec, could this continually drain your battery?Does the barrel jack socket have same switching function as a standard stereo jack, so its only switched on when it's plugged in?

Thx, running fine on one battery powering both

i would agree, this is a common cause - had this on a couple of homebrew pedals. Soldered a 1M resistor across the terminals of the input jack from hot to ground at it cleared up.

My £36 parametric 3-band pre-amp came yesterday evening, duly fitted to the Gecko, will give it a good trial at tonights practice. [url="http://www.artecsound.com/pickups/electronics/se3p.html"]http://www.artecsound.com/pickups/electronics/se3p.html[/url]

What? Move across the floor to get to my amp? Guitarist would steal my mic spot. Really. TBH also farting around with a 10-band eq mid gig to get a scooped tone is a pain compared to turning a knob on the bass.

found some more useful torres stuff here: http://www.jpbourgeois.org/guitar/microsbis.htm#Midrange%20Modification

I have a circuit:

Can I ask: 2 batteries better than one? I have a apir of SB basslines pickups powered by a 9V pp3, it has pasive controls (JB wiring). I'm taking the passive pots pout and adding a 3-band eq pre-amp, also 9v. Do i use a separate battery for pickups and pre-amp, single 9V to power both, or 18V in series to power both? Can't seem to find any recommendation in the literature about this.

Change of plan - decided to try out a cheap 3-band bass pre-amp to have a play around. one of the [s]cheap[/s] cost-effective Artec SE3P-A units with a mid cut/boost and freq sweep. This is 9V, i already have 9V powering the pups, is it better to use same battery to power both or put in a second separate battery for the pre-amp?

[quote name='nugget' timestamp='1328562736' post='1529249'] As above quoted above here's the link to the schemes [url="http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htm"][color=#0f72da]http://www.geocities...dio/index_e.htm[/color][/url] Yes $99 is outrageous [u][b]unless[/b][/u] they have done extensive practical research into the component values rather than just going from the calcs..... [/quote]thanks nugget 4558 op amp circuit would make it an active control, the passive ones i was looking at earlier were just a pot, inductor, 2 caps, 2 resistors. Thats the Torres/Rothstein unit

$99 for a passive control is[b] outrageous![/b] Thx for the link but I need to find somewhere on the internet the circuitry for this. It should be no more then £10 for parts and 10 mins soldering.

wondering if anyone's fitted a bass with the torres system, the push-pull pot with an inductor and a few caps and resistors soldered to it - someone MUST have done so, but I'd assume the cap and res values would need tweaking. http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_passive.html

Didn't the rickenbacker basses all start off with a guitar pickup in the neck position? A coil of wire is a coil of wire, a magnet is a magnet and a vibrating string is, well, all you need to get a sound.

I'm looking into an onboard simple passive mid cut via a mini switch mounted on the bass body, for my warmoth Gecko. It's Seymour Duncan Basslines active(but quite low output) pickups, other than that its wired standard jazz, one vol knob per pickup and a master tone. I want to be able to scoop the mids with a flick of the switch. Anyone looked into one of these Rothstein or Torres passive mid cut/boost circuits? I'm assuming its a variable resistor, 2 pairs of caps and resistors plus a small inductor, but I'd need some steer on the schematic and the component values.

Simwells +1 ^ My personal prefs. Some prefer dirt before chorus, some after. See which works for you. Deffo tuner first though.

[quote name='Stingray5' timestamp='1288791438' post='1010745'] If I may oblige, Bilbo... A great looking guitar on a great track from a great album. [/quote]I'd like to be that guitar

soz but i quite like the look of the natural stripy wood on the strat and the jazz. Specially hard to cater for guitarists and appear to be innovative when they are all such a conservative bunch of consumers.

fitted some sturdy casters to a marshall 4 x 10 i used to own, then when playing i just turned it thru 90 degrees and sat it on the floor

We did a gig at the Picturedrome Holmfirth for a local charity, raised about £5.5k and had the best night ever, so many great people came along to support, enjoy the music and mosh it up. First gig with my new Geddy Lee Jazz. Unforgettable! Rerun next year June 30th. Here's some clips: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDlZJbkquoE&feature=context&context=C30f8acaADOEgsToPDskKoQzpOczlnGSkIFCqwG3zp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOxG9dJ_xfM&feature=related

you'd whack in a much bigger resistor than the 10k one. Not certain of the actual calculations though!

OK here's mark III, uses a bicolor LED with common ANODE centre leg. 6.2V zener diode, 2 general purpose npn transistors such as 2n3904. Just double check the leg config if you're using a different type. One side of the LED will light up when the battery volts are above 6.9V, the other side lights up when battery volts fall below 6.9V. Get yourself a green/red bicolor LED and you are in business. Shove a small push-to-make test button on after the battery then you can quickly check your battery status between songs or gigs. [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6554306733/"][/url]

You can get a small current surge when u hit the switch, the trick is to wire in a capacitor and resistor to the switch so the current surge is slowed down. Theres some info on electronics/pedals forums somewhere in more detail about this, search for switch pop or something similar. I find a 1meg resistor from jack input live to ground helps reduce the pop.

bitsbox zener diodes with me tomorrow so probably about 6:20 pm Tues 20th

cheers, got a mini push-switch on order, then you can just press the button to check battery state, rather than having an LED or circuit draining charge all the time. John East's little unit is far more elegant using a tiny pulse of light flashing when battery falls below the programmed level to stay economical with current drain, but this should fit the bill for my gecko.