Al Heeley

Not much to add to that, the rules of thumb for me are: Stompbox effects are meant to go between the instrument and the amp. Rack effects are meant to go in the fx loop between pre-amp and power amp stage. This is in general, htere are always exceptions. Tuner first as chrismuzz says, cos it needs to get the cleanest signal to work best. After that for stompies its eq effect, then distortion, then modulation, finally time-based (echo/reverb) - again a general rule of thumb - some like chorus before distortion/overdrive, others prefer it afterwards. It is worth swapping around a bit as you may prefer to mix it up. The above works best for most people.

thanks for the heads-up, must get over to see them

2n3904 = 12 pence each plus £1.50 postage [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/transistors.html"]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/transistors.html[/url]

Input jack --->stompswitch-->circuit in...circuit out-->stompswitch-->output jack

2N5088 can be replaced with a 2N3904 which you will find everywhere (except Tesco's I think) - or a 2N4401 - or a BC549 - or a BC108. Sometimes you just have to doouble check you don't have your legs crossed when you substitute different trannies. Visit the Beavis Audio site for more schematics about using a 3pdt stompswitch to wire up an indicator LED into the circuit.

sounds to me like you're trying to force it. Lay down the bass for a few weeks. Don't touch it. Come back when your spirit is more positive, a rest is a good tonic and you can come back rejuvenated and motivated again.

Apologies to all in advance if this has been posted before, but this is some really superb clean and sublime funky tone from takhdtogo [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeG9-e1mHmQ&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeG9-e1mHmQ...der&list=UL[/url] Well worth an ear treat, some superb playing [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGXmFMqgTrw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGXmFMqgTrw...der&list=UL[/url] I need some help working out how to embed these properly... <iframe width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Pi-u9vEtNWk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cStgzpX4xBY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I think there's nothing punchier than a decent 4x10. I use Hartke XL 4 x 10 and a 1 x 12. The 4x10 is nearly as heavy as the peavey and its a pain dragging it around so I built a small wheeled trolley for it, now I just have to just lift it into the boot. Sounds better than the other cabs, pity you have to spend a lot more money than I can afford to get a good really lightweight one.

You'd have though he'd give it a bit of a clean up or a lick of paint before photographing it though, looks a wreck!

I have one dating back to my student band from the mid 80's, a big thick coil jobby but its a bit buzzy now.

rock covers: take the 15

The expensive basses I have can take a far better setup than the cheap one - fret job, neck straightness, stability, action, you name it. Better setup for me means lower action, easier to play, no fret buzz or rattle, spot-on intonation.

I think the very good point made is that in a live gig there's not many punters can tell the difference in sound quality. If it takes a good studio and clean recording then it justifies the extra money you pay for along with the pleasure of hopefully superior playability.

posted!

[url="http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/"]http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/[/url] for loads of parts for pedal boards, fixing, patch cables, power supplies. Velcro on the underside of some pedals will not stick well if its a boss or digitech due to the plasticiser in the rubber base - its oily and even the best heavy duty adhesive does not last long. JSF sells these little chain links that can attach via screws to fix the pedals down but you can't juggle them round so easily. ANy decent piece of wood or mdf sprayed black with carpet or velcro lining will do as a pedal board. Raise it off the ground with some rubber feet and u can cut slots to stuff all the messy cabling underneath.

I'm rather fond of the Gilmour unplugged Albert hall stuff where he does the big slide guitar solo on Shine On #2 Oh and a bit of Satriani live in San Francisco every now and then.

I've received 2 pms for these, now I'm honour-bound to send them to the first guy that posted but I've not had any delivery addresses yet - let me know where you want them sent. Note: One of them has had the inductor coil remoived by me as the copper cracked where it was soldered to the board. I've resoldered it with a wire to bypass, so although the crossover will not function, the circuit will still be made. The other one is a brand new unit never used.

Is it dark enough to be mahogany? Alder is a cheaper, lighter hue more workable wood with a bit less mass to it than Mahogany. Solid mahogany P-bass body would be pretty hefty.

Good to hear, very helpful folk

No good to me now, Marshall sent me a couple of spare crossover cards for MB115 cab and MB4210 combo since the bits on mine shook themselves loose. Surplus to requirements as the combo and cab were passed on, if you have one of the MB bass amps or cabs these might come in very handy. Both mine were replaced but failed again at a gig. Not impressed. Playing Peavey & Hartke now. PM me if you're interested and I'll pop em in a jiffy bag for you.

Is this one of those charming quirks of Rickenbacker or irritating poor dsign?

Wait, let me get this right - you're encouraging your guitard to use effects? Geez, you're going to regret that one.

Any chance the different phased signals from both pickups on combination are showing a bit of destructive interference, giving some output decrease at certain frequencies?