Al Heeley

There's quite a few on ebay if you search for Fender dedcals, fender headstock decals, fender guitar decals, fender bass decals, you may have to purchase from overseas sellers though.

sounds like a shorted cap on the tone pot to me as well, the red/white wires which you are told to solder together are normally inner wires from the humbucker coils, if you want to access single coil or coil-tap then these would go to your coil tap switch. That should leave you with a black and a green and a bare earth wire. Green + bare would normally go off to your earth on the back of the vol pot, black wire goes to your vol pot lug. The SKT-2 is a 4-conductor pickup; single-coil-sized stacked humbucker allowing hotter output and none of the buzzing/noise problems associated with some single coil pickups. Green = start of windings of coil 1. White is end of coil 1 windings. Red is start of windings for coil 2, and black is end of windings. That's why you need to solder toegther red & white. [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/images/products/basslines/501030-115.pdf"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/images/produc.../501030-115.pdf[/url]

hmm..

Come on guys, you're just encouraging him!

Some P basses have a bit of a reputation for buzzing A-strings, its caused by the shallow angle of the sdtring going over the nut to the tuning peg. When u fit the strings on, u have to make sure the string is wound on in a downwards fashion which helps maximise the string angle over the nut, the extra downforce pressure of the string seated in the nut slot cures the buzzing problem and allows proper transfer of energy to the guitar. 3 or 4 windings, each one going further down towards the face of the headstock should cure the problem.

That's great for those bass players with Synasthesic tendencies, I think the oranginess of the bass tones can add a lot to their vintage appeal.

Basschat is great in that it caters well for both sets of demographic; those that think it doesn't make a difference and those that do. Most of the latter school speak sense from the theoretical point of view, now the real issue is one of [i]significance[/i]. Does it make a significant difference to the human ear. Be interested to hear your field test. I spent an afternoon once fitting a P-bass with a 3-way switch that brought in a range of different value (and type) caps on my tone knob. I found no difference whatsoever (in my ears) to the tonal quality as I backed off the treble - it all sounded muddy once it got past 1/2 way. In theory it should have changed the amount of treble cut-off as well as influencing the ramp of the pot, but I'm pretty sure you'd only really see this with an oscilloscope or spectrum analyser. It all sounded really mushy so I went back to playing my EBMM Stingray.

How many people crank down the tone control (passive bass) to remove some of the top end? That's all the cap will do, there's subtle frequency response differences in different manufacture method caps, that you can detect with an oscilloscope but I'll be darned if I can hear any difference when I'm bashing out Jam numbers in a pub gig. There, I've said it. 90% baloney spoken about the benefits of sprague orange drop caps and overpriced nos components. All you're doing is cutting out a bit of the treble. [ducks for cover]

That is so cool - I think I need to make me a leopardskin furry jb now a la ZZ Top

most of my stompboxes are rectangle-shaped, these are the standard enclosures used by home-build pedal makers. Does it HAVE to be sloping? GU62S is the box I normally use.

Perfect - thanks guys!

Are there any websites which list gig info for local bands, so you can check when visiting anywhere, what bands will be playing in the bigger pubs/clubs in the town? Any websites you use to publicise your own gigs?

i get a lot of components from Bobs Bitsbox - he has online & ebay shop. Lots of other uk-based ebay shop outlets for all u need as well. Just search in ebay for 100nf capacitor. Enclosure is std maplins cast aluminium 60mm by 110mm and about 40mm deep. The vero circuit posted earlier on here already has changed i & o caps for deeper freq response.

very good point.

You can buy adhesive copper foil from Axes'R'Us and from ebay, it certainly helps isolate the electrics when the ctrl cavity, underside of pickguard and pickup cavities are all coated, then grounded. In my old house the fridge was the biggest pain connected to local ring main as the socket where my amp was plugged in. Caused all sorts of extra noise and buzzing. Fluoresecent lights can also be a pain.

BOSS CEB-3 just wasn't deep enough for what I was after, but they have to be one of the most popular, widely used for bassists. The Digitech sounds more synthetic/metallic but goes so much deeper, it works fine in our current set. If you want a gentle round warm chorus for fretless, the Boss is great.

Yes, made 2 of these on veroboard now - guitarist has stolen one of them, great fun, easy starting project excpet for all the off board pot wiring. Go for it.

Maple is an extremely hard wood, probably harder than ebony, certainly more so than Rosewood. I imagine it would withstand the chew of roundwounds pretty well uncoated.

If you have an overdrive which is sensitive to attack, then if you put a limiter in front of it, won't that also limit the ability of the overdrive to be dynamic? ie: that extra grit when you dig in harder for the Hives cover?

increase in value of input cap (and output cap) certainly works on the Tubescreamer circuit and the fuzz Factory, but according to the gurus you should be using different value resistors as well as the 2 always interact together re hi-passa/low-pass filter operation.

Urea formaldehyde resin in butanol, strengthened with melamine. It's good stuff

Glad the springs did the trick -glad to help Dave

Not just polyester - which is generic name for resin used in fibreglass construction, but 2-part clear coat or gelcoat polyester. best start is asking a good vehicle refinishing shop. To apply well you need a spray booth and good spray equipment, its 2-part curing so not easy to handle - the peroxide hardener is dangerous and needs cold storage. Nearest user-friendly home equivalent is Rustins Plastic coating, also 2-pack, chemically curing, but dries clear, no colour, very hard and can be brush-applied, self-levels to a good high gloss finish.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='895315' date='Jul 15 2010, 08:00 AM']I've seen some of the superglue projects. I always manage to glue my fingers to something no matter what I'm doing, so might avoid this. My furniture maker friend seems to think the Kaufman-style walls and epoxy flood method, followed by LOTS of sanding would be the best option. Me, I'm thinking Rustins plastic coating now, probably over the top of some danish oil to get the colour right.[/quote] NOOooo!!! Don't put danish oil on, it will prevent proper adhesion of anything else except more danish oil you try to put on over the top. It may adhere initially but the oil will prevent full penetration into the wood pores and it will flake off as soon as its given a bit of grief. there are some dyes that the Rustins plastic coating can be used with if you need to apply a slightly tinted finish, but not all are compatible and some may retard the cure of the coating. Check with Rustins first! Put the Danish oil back on the shelf. Do it now.

EBMM state "Select Hardwood" for the body on their site, necks are maple, that means the wood for the body has been given the latitude to change as mfr may require. Wood, being natural, is also quite varied in terms of hardness, density, which is why it is important to buy from a good shop where they have a few versions of the model you want, to sit and play and get the vibe.