Al Heeley

Peavey Tour 450 head & 2 hartke cabs: Does it make any difference if I wire each cab from the two separate outputs on the amp, or daisy chain them from amp to cab1, then cab1 to cab 2? Is there a best method?

[quote name='SignsOfDelirium_bassist' post='888391' date='Jul 7 2010, 01:27 PM']Should I fill in every hole? Surely leaving the middle one so I know it's centered?[/quote] Do you know for certain that the new bridge shares exactly same centre hole position as the old one? Both laterally and longitudinally? Would not do any harm to shove a bit of toothpick down it and a dab of glue so the screw has something to bite on.

The weak G's on the stingrays is a common grumble from owners (of which I am proud to be included) - I don't understand why the pickup pole is so much lower than the A and D string ones, if indeed that is the cause. Anyway, gone o/t a bit. Give it a try with some Wizards, I've heard only great things about their Jazz puppies.

All part of the great learning curve. 1) I'd fill all the bridge holes with little wood dowels + wood glue. the redrill for the new bridge. If you're hitting metal could it be the earthing wire to the bridge that should be routed through the bask end of the bass? 2) broken drill bit: try heating it up with the point of a soldering iron - it will expand then once cooled down you may be able to work it free with tweezers or long-nosed pliers. 3) Small hacksaw to slot the screw head, then remove, ro square off the head with a small file and try to twist it free with pliers. Good luck!

I'm guessing he kept whittling away more and more og the body to get the shape right, till he ran out of wood. It certainly is rather special. I think coffin is quite apt, as I'd not want to be seen dead buying/owning/playing this one-off creation.

oh thats sweet, a natural ash ray, i'll take the one on the left, ta. tell me, is that the best bass neck ever?

I'm a big fan of Beavis stuff. Do it, post pics and let us know how it turns out!

Costello - Pump It Up Foo Fighters - Monkey wrench currently being worked on for a new line up

Finest necks I ever came across, the Stingrays, and I'm a big jazz Bass fan. My eq (3 band) is incredibly powerful - if i have bass turned up behond halfway it distorts the amp, so for me, bass on half, mid a bit off half, 3-4, and treble on 4. It is very punchy with a lot of mids (Hartke 410 cab = lots of punchy mids too) so i roll back a bit of mid. the action is sublime on this bass, i hit it hard with my fingers and get a bit of grit going on. Hard going back to any other basses now, this one is so great to play.

is there any chance someones swapped out the neck pup? The pole spacings on the bridge pup are a little bit wider than on the neck, it looks to me like you have 2 bridge pups in there. String spacing (from centres of E to G) at bridge pup is 56mm, at neck it is 52-53mm. With the G being the thinnest, lowest output as well as a pickup pole a few mm off centre, this would explain a lower output from the G. I assume you've tried raising the treble end of the pup nearer the string to try and compensate for lower output? I would think proper neck pup double pole pieces would address this if you are ok about disrupting its vintage (well, only 12 yrs) integrity.

Pretty sure its some filth on the pot tracks causing both cracking and shorting to give drop in volumes. i had this with a Marshall 30th anniversary valve amp too - exactly what you are describing. Took it to a friend of mine who is an amp technician, he took the amp head out of the cab and cleaned all the pots properly, problem gone. A squirt of contact cleaner spray and a few twiddles does the job on the pots. If it is really vintage, a couple of the pots may need replacing if the tracks have become too corroded or fluffed up. Worth paying for the job to get done properly unless you are confident and handy with a soldering iron.

Nice work! I have to come out of my closet and admit that Betterware do a really good little tube of metal polish paste which works wonders for old/corroded/pitted hardware.

What, no-one owned/tried one of these?

excellent! Got to build another one for my guitarist now, he loves it

Seen these in shops and ebay, anyone here have one or tried one? [url="http://www.digitech.com/products/Pedals/BassChorus.php"]http://www.digitech.com/products/Pedals/BassChorus.php[/url] Are they any good? I'm looking for a fuller, deeper sound than I can get from my Boss CEB3, without paying boutique prices for posh stuff (like EBS for example) £120 for a chorus is a bit too much for me, £50 - £60 is manageable. I like the idea of the 1 -> 16 voice levels, but are they ok live for bass?

the off-board wiring looks right, I'd guess you have a poor solder joint somewhere or a short on a track to short the vol pot resistance out, thus no volume control.

least hes not offering a swollen pickle

Excellent use of marketing attributes.

Wife thinks I'm getting a bit obsessive about this pedal building lark

I must say that the bobbass4k mod circuit was absolutely amazing when tried at last nights practice with my stingray, gotta back right off the vol but huge dirty fuzz and a lot of interesting resonant frequencies and oscillations going on, its a great fun pedal this! Guitarist wants one now. You have to be quite careful with the settings of the 5 knobs as you get a huge range of evil racket as well as some full on hi gain fuzz out of this thing. More raucous than a woolly mammoth, and less controllable. I was thinking it might just need a wet/dry blend control but why try to tame a rampant rhino? It's not designed to be a house pet.

[quote name='Finbar' post='882409' date='Jun 30 2010, 08:51 PM']So any more ideas? No matter how oddball! Just want something professional looking.[/quote] Have a go with inkjet transparency sheets, printed in reverse. I do all my box graphics like this now. Instead of cutting out round the letters you need to cut out an area to cover the entire pedal surface, so all the graphics needed go onto one sheet. When the ink is totally dry laminate it ink side down onto teh metal case using araldite.

Had some problems with my home-etched pcb version, so I reverted to another veroboard build based on the bass-tweaked schematic from Bobbass4k, got it working last night no prob (except my Ge tranny alignment was out by 180º!) It's a bit of a beast - does all the wild oscillating Muse squealy stuff, definitely bass-heavy (just been playing guitar thru it so far ) but as a relatively simple build its a great project. badgerific - your circuit lacks the diode and cap - presumably for mains adapter, is this just battery-only design? The rest looks pretty similar, though people have to be careful about snipping the traces underneath R2, R3 and R5 resistors, they are not very clear from the diagram.

[quote name='Alien' post='880545' date='Jun 29 2010, 12:22 AM']20W ceramic resistors don't really weigh much at all. A short length of 4mm CSA cable (like you'd run from the input socket to the speaker) probably weighs a fair bit more, and likely moves around a fair bit too, but nobody bats an eyelid about the stresses on those solder joints do they?[/quote] Cable will be tethered at both ends. Its not so much the weight as the moment-lever action. In my marshall crossovers the power resistor was jutting out horizontally from a vertically mounted board and all the oscillating force from vibrations during play and transport was focused on one small area- the solder joint. 4 separate failures of the units were experienced before I threw in the towel and sent them back. 2 were related to the resistor joint, 2 related to the inductor coil coming loose for exactly the same reason. Silicome sealant is a good answer as fixative and vibration absorber.