Al Heeley

Gorgeous! I'm in the market for a new chorus, not very pleased with my current unit. I'm so very tempted......

oops not series, parallel - sorry. this is a tubescreamer circuit.

New ones for us to be aired first time this Sat's gig; Going underground - Jam New Rose - Damned Alternative ulster - Stiff Little Fingers Monkey Wrench - Foo Fighters An excellent selection for any bass player to hammer through

Not wanting to alter tone at this point, I was assuming the smoothing cap influences the amount of clipping to change the overdrive/distortion characteristics, not cut the high frequencies. The cap is put in series with the antiparallel clipping diodes.

[quote]I have a nice rig - it's an Aguilar AG500 head (twin channel jobby), an Aguilar GS112 and a GS112NT. I also use an Aguilar Tone Hammer which also acts as a DI box. It's all connected with OBBM's cables and the whole lot sits on a Gramma Pad. Because of the small numbers, I couldn't bring myself to be arsed to unload my rig so I used the house rig - a slightly battle scarred Hartke HA3500A head and an equally road worn Hartke VX 4x10 and I have to say it sounded absolutely bloody marvelous. We've had debates about this before - I know but I was kinda flabbergasted and thought to myself...why spend loadsa money when this little rig is plenty good enough?[/quote] Darn - I thought a Hartke set up was pretty high end! I guess its all relative, if you can afford it and justify it to yourself then it brings you more pleasure, what sounds great to one person sounds less than ideal to another.

I'm taking a stab at a 150pF smoothing cap to start with - is that in the right area? This unit will get 50/50 usage for bass and lead guitar

Little module I was working on yesterday: Its a small capacitor switching pcb, comnnected to a 4-way rotary switch. By replacing the stock capacitor in your circuit with the black & brown leads you can select 4 different combinations of capacitor to give (in this example) a range from 0.68uF down to 0.05uF. You can shove this into any circuit you want to mod - this will go into a tubescreamer circuit to replace the stock 0.047uF input cap, and give 4 different levels of bass boost. You could of course use the same little module to replace the tone cap in your guitar, a la gretsch or varitone in the Gibson Lucille.. My next tubescreamer build will be the most versatile so far: standard gain (1meg pot), tone, vol knobs, plus 4-way rotary switch for 4 different values input cap selection, another 4-way rotary to select one of 4 different diode clipping mods, and an on-off toggle switch to bring in a smoothing cap in series with the selected diode clipping.

add to that old karrimat bits from camping trips, pretty durable and the right amount of elasticity/resiliance.

Please don't forget to check with your parent or guardian before taking any sanding implement or paintstripper near their beloved 80's bass.

I would take the neck off and add a very thin shim to the side of the pocket to bring the neck true again, then bolt it back on. Should not affect the fret buzz or performance, esp. if you get a thin shim of hard wood like maple. A good repair tech could make this nearly invisible and this should correct the string alignment

Where exactly is the gap? Has it been shimmed to raise the action (pocket too deep) or is the gap along the sides of the neck? (ie: pocket too wide)

Cheers - I print in reverse onto inkjet transparency film, they used to use it for overhead projectors, when its dry I smear a very thin film of epoxy onto the case then glue the printed film to it ink side down. Does a good job and you can exercise your artistic tendencies with colours, textures, graphics, etc to get a pretty nice looking pedal

Heres the finished tubescreamer mod pedal using the little clipping diode switch i made earlier. Another great distortion pedal for either lead guitar or bass using the phat switch, big tonal range, i just love these pedals

and a good magnifier lens - essential! then you need a hot concentrated etch solution as if it takes too long the pen starts to wear off. Good copper board prep beforehand helps give best surface for the pen or the transfers. There's also decals you can use, rub-on dry decals for pcb's but they are also a huge pain to use.

^+1 if your just using laser toner, it's all about the ironing. A bit hit and miss at first regarding time and temperature to get a good toner transfer, but it does work.

i [i]was[/i] jack but since I buggered up the office laserjet printer with blue press-n-peel paper i've had to go back to only really simple ones i can draw by hand with etch resist pen. This sort of limits me to simple fuzz circuits you could build on veroboard.

[quote name='BassBod' post='802722' date='Apr 11 2010, 04:11 PM']... Good point about the Warwick finisher/wax - unlike many others that doea a good job on the back of the neck without leaving any stickiness and also doesn't have any of the health warnings you see on the Birchwood products[/quote] I think you're comparing Warwick (bees)wax with tru-oil, thats not really a valid comparison if you're highlighting health & safety concerns. Since you only use a tiny smear of tru-oil on a rag and rub it in. funny how 'natural' products like Linseed oil don't seem to generate as much knee-jerk health concerns. that's basically all tru-oil is. I wouldn't be too worried about ingestion or inhalation at the normal usage levels. the gunstock wax is going to be no better or worse than any other wax, beeswax, carnauba, warwick or otherwise. I don't have shares in Birchwood Casey, but I am a chemicals geek.

OK, I'm back. Anyone have experience of the Digitech multivoice bass chorus?

thx - off to search (for both, or either.....)

[quote name='burno70' post='819130' date='Apr 26 2010, 11:51 AM']The Analogueman Chorus is really nice.[/quote] Hmm but you're looking at [b]$225[/b] for the standard unit and having to order it from the States. I need something a little more accesible and preferably wallet-friendly.

[quote name='MB1' post='818598' date='Apr 25 2010, 10:37 PM']MB1. Hello Al Had Many Bass Chorus Pedals but still liking my EBS! [/quote] Is it this one? [url="http://www.bassemporium.com/item.php?sku=UNICHORUS"]http://www.bassemporium.com/item.php?sku=UNICHORUS[/url]

I think the ZL9M3 is a zener diode - they work with opposite polarity to normal diodes and there will be a threshold voltage with them, so no u can't. [url="http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schemview.php?id=351"]http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics...view.php?id=351[/url] Used in the Cry baby wah circuit - any 9.1V Zener diode can be used instead, but not a normal one such as 4001, 4004, 4148, etc.

Currently using a Boss CEB3 bass chorus, its just not got enough for what I'm after, having to max out the effect but still left wanting a little bit more. Any suggestions for a bass chorus pedal that just goes a little further in terms of tone/modulation effect depth?

Best bass distortion I've heard: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=74856&view=findpost&p=741542"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...st&p=741542[/url]