Al Heeley

Maybe 3 coats is good since it will be thinned it will spread well = thinner layers. First layer will penetrate and seal. Then 2 thin coats to build up some gloss. Allow to cure at least 30 mins - it must be touch-dry. If its thinned and cold the cure time will be longer, but it does go off quite quick. Mix base, hardener together first then add thinner. Keeping them in the fridge slows down the reaction and gives you more time to mix and coat. They say it can be kept 2 days in fridge if mixed and unused but I'd prepare a fresh batch if the job goes over a day.

have you got a good conenction for all your earth wires onto the pot backs? This can sometimes be a pig to solder as the case sucks all the energy out of the solder iron tip.

In my post above I included a link to the product data sheet. At the bottom of the data sheet there's reference to their product called [b][font=georgia,serif]Rustins Plastic Coating Thinners[/font][/b]. It's probably a cellulose-based hydrocarbon/solvent mix but if I were you I'd stick to this branded product. You'll need it to clean your brush out as well.

You can't go wrong with Schaller or Gotoh tuners - Allparts stock a wide range, both have good rep. [url="http://www.allparts.com/Bass-Tuning-Keys-s/171.htm"]http://www.allparts.com/Bass-Tuning-Keys-s/171.htm[/url]

This link is quite good at wiring basics: [url="http://www.guitarnucleus.com/wiring.html"]http://www.guitarnucleus.com/wiring.html[/url]

You may be right, I tried to find some info on the net re MM pickup wire colour coding but found none, these 2 sites detail lots of other manufacturers: [url="http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.humbucker_wiring_color_codes/"]http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.humbucker_wiring_color_codes/[/url] [url="http://www.skguitar.com/SKGS/sk/Pickup%20color%20codes.htm"]http://www.skguitar.com/SKGS/sk/Pickup%20color%20codes.htm[/url]

the middle prong is the sweeper that sweeps between the 2 ends of the resistor. In some cases you can swap the 2 end lugs over if the pot seems to work 'backwards' but the middle lug always has to be the 'variable' dynamic part of the circuit. Have a read here - great article about how they work: [url="http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm"]http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm[/url]

You going with standard SD MM; red + black soldered together as the live, and white + green + bare as the earth?

it's not really 'plastic', its 2-part Urea Formaldehyde resin, not quite as hard as epoxy coating but close to it, and harder than most woods in terms of surface scratch resistance and point impact. Good advice from LawrenceH about thinning and chilling it, the longer the curing reaction is delayed, the more chance the air bubbles have of escaping.

Well the simplest to wire would be jazz-type, individual vol pots and a master tone, you can pull that off Seymour Duncan wiring site. When u say different MM functions, do you want to split the humbucker, series + parallel? SD have a diagram for that too, using a 3-pos blade switch like you'd get in a telecaster.

GLX are cheap Boss clones, (allegedly from the same factory....) I have a couple (eq + limiter) and they are great for £35, built really strong, well worth a buy if you're unsure about shelling out more bucks for a boutique or big name pedal. Dangleberry have been tradig these via ebay for a few years now.

Rustins data sheet [url="http://www.rustins.eu/ProdData/Plastic%20Coating%20data%20mar10.pdf"]http://www.rustins.eu/ProdData/Plastic%20Coating%20data%20mar10.pdf[/url] says wood is ok being dyed beforehand (of course using only Rustins dye...others may be incompatible).Their wood dye is solvent-based (hydrocarbon/naphtha, white spirit, etc.) so avoid water-based dyes & acrylics and you will be fine.

If you're happy with the tones you get from your unit, and they really are cheap little beggars, there's no problem having 2 in series then switching between them.

[url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=musicman_passive_2v_1t"]http://www.seymourdu...n_passive_2v_1t[/url] this should get you started

hit the open E while holding the springs damped with your fingers - that will show if it is the springs or not. I've never heard springs being audible enough to make a difference. I would suspect they are innocent.

^this - Precisions are known to be prone to this, shallow break angle over the nut to the winder.

Can you tell me about the Big Beautiful Bass pedal? Not come across one of those from SFX before. It's a great mini board, I love it

The digitech digital pedals (flange, chorus) eat batteries for elevenses, as do the more complex Boss synth and looper pedals. You are always recommended a power lead for these. However, I would have thought an EBS compressor is not that power hungry, is it a digital processor pedal? If you get one of those Y-connector leads you could split the power input between your midi controller and the ebs to avoid having a power brick on your pedalboard

You need one of each. Decals: If you never intend to pass it off as a Fender you can do whatever you like with it, it's your instrument! However, general basschat etiquette would pourscorn on the decal issue, personally I like the faux-fender thing so the font looks similar but it says something different.

shouldnt there be a serial no. on the headstock?

if you have a mains lead you can check if theres something else the matter

tighten the grub screw on the knob

'Ability to learn songs' might throw a few applicants.