
Al Heeley
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Everything posted by Al Heeley
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you need to be good with a Router and some scrapers, and a set of sanding disks. Have a look on project guitar forum for some how-to guides on contouring a LP top.
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[quote name='mancunianfox' post='756611' date='Feb 24 2010, 11:08 PM']Anyone got any advice on making pcb's? After doing a pcb build I don't think I could cope with veroboard again. I'll probably make a right hash of etching those though.[/quote] Plenty of step-by-step guides on the web for doing this, here's one: [url="http://tacashi.tripod.com/elctrncs/pcbworks/pcbworks.htm"]http://tacashi.tripod.com/elctrncs/pcbworks/pcbworks.htm[/url] You can get everything u need from maplins - even a beginners start-up pcb etching kit
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LOL - hang in there, I've thrown a few circuits across the room at times in frustration and then realised I forgot to insert the transistors into their sockets.
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I get a lot of stuff off Bobs Bits Box, he only has the pin-type jacks, makes no odds to me what I solder onto Wiring the 3pdt switch either way up makes no odds, as long as you have the tabs running horizontal, if that makes sense.
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[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=78612&st=0&gopid=756544&#entry756544"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...mp;#entry756544[/url] Homebuild Ross-clone compressor build thread
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Heh, no prob sir! Here's the pcb being wired into the enc. Just waiting for the CA3080 chip now, bought a couple off ebay.
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Here's the enclosure - graphics done by printing in reverse onto inkjet transparency paper, then laminating to the box with a thin smear of epoxy, ink side down. Second pic shows the enclosure inside ready to start soldering the connecting wires.
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Populating the PCB: First the resistors, then the IC socket, ceramic caps, diodes, then electrolytic diodes. Transistors last. Second pic shows all the wires in place for switch and pots.
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Here's a build blog for a home-built compressor pedal, following the schematics from DIYStompbox Saff Ross layout - a clone of the famous ross Compressor. PCB - home etched with help on transfer & image from a good friend and fellow bass player
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Basschat T shirts for sale
Al Heeley replied to ped's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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What did u cnage the caps from and to, to get more bass?
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Mmmmmmm . . . I'll take the Peavey and the fretless please. Put qa black pickguard on the squier and I'll take that off your hands too. nice line up
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Ignoring the innuendo, anyone know how I convert a 1977 big muff circuit to work well for bass? Just about to start a pcb homebuild, if it's just a change to an input cap I can give that a try while I make the circuit.
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Maybe need to consult the pre-amp mfr - a lot of active pots are only 50k. Are you wanting to blend together the passive and active signal or blend between the 2 pickups?
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O M G - the emperors new clothes cable has surpassed my previous £14k kettle lead astonishment, that's incredible! Well done marketing people, that is simply inspired!
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Good to hear this - I just bought a set but not yet put them on as I'm wringing the last bit of tone out of the old set. I think they were about £35.
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Good advice from Mikey. I reckoned accuracy to within 1/2mm was fine for me, same steel rule. You want to be as accurate as possible, but don't get too hung up on it. After all, someone with a heavier hand is going to squeeze the string maybe 1/4 a semi tone more when fretting, so your tenths of mm's are not significant. I reckon within 1/2 a mm is within human hearing tolerance for a bass.
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Amp techs/handy men/clever people near me?
Al Heeley replied to William James Easton's topic in Repairs and Technical
PM sent - is Huddersfield too far afield for you? -
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There's a lot of interesting psychology going into pricing and marketing bull, people like to feel their own worth and like to be assured firstly that they can afford the high price, secondly that they are getting a better product, it reflects their own aspirations of self-value, like the Stella Artois 'Reassuringly Expensive' tag from a few years ago. Nip over to Belgium or Holland and a lot of the nationals won't drink the Stella as its seen as the economy brand. Anyway, meanered o/t there, quite fancy a beer now.
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Looks like old Macca is good for something afterall!
Al Heeley replied to dumelow's topic in General Discussion
it doesn't actually say that Paul is one of the consortium lined up to save it, he's just commenting that he hope it will be saved. Well so do we all. There's a quid in the post. -
+1 for David Dyke, used those truss rods in a few builds. For fret slot cutting i use a Gents Saw and a thick steel edge. [url="http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:c7cbtpJGA1n4HM:http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317P8W2TJSL._SL500_AA280_.jpg"]http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:c7cbtpJ...L500_AA280_.jpg[/url] Go slow and careful, make sure its all lined up straight.
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Celeb-endorsed cables are the way to go. really. Zakk Wylde is known for his subtle warm hi-fi tones. He can offer 'Application-Specific' cables with sonic bite. Thats quite impressive. For me, application-specific means its specifically good at being a guitar cable, and maybe useless as a toaster or alarm clock perhaps. Time-correct windings for accurate sound. Wish my guitar playing was more accurate. Maybe this will help me. [url="http://www.zakkwylde.com/gear.html"]http://www.zakkwylde.com/gear.html[/url] What's more, microfibre dielectrics preserve those important transients. They look like a good quality cable but why swamp us with all this shocking bull?
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excellent! First thing to do is go on Amazon and buy Melvyn Hiscox book "Build your own guitar". Essential read for anyone wanting to embark on this addictive hobby. It will help save loads of mistakes that a lot of people make first time and take you step by step through the build of 3 different guitars.
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Theres so many guitar cleaning products out there called Lemon-Oil, and a big variety of ingredients. I have a bottle of "lemon oil" I've specifically used (and recommended by Ernie Ball Music Man) for cleaning maple fretboards and I've not yet lost any frets yet. Sometimes a bit of lemon oil is added to linseed base for conditioning rosewood fingerboards, sometimes a lemon perfume is added to naphtha (basically lighter fuel) and sold as lemon oil cleaner - its s great degreaser, no lemons were hurt in the making of this product, but it can damage some NC-finished wood. Just be careful as a lot of lemon-oil products are not necessarily lemon oil, its just become one of those things that are expected in a cleaning product bought by musicians, like a woman buying shampoo expecting there to be pro-vitamin B with grape extracts. ie: 90% marketing bull. When in doubt, a good soft cloth slightly dampened with soapy water and a bit of elbow grease will do no harm to your instrument.