Al Heeley

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more than enough

maybe the preamp gain is set too high causing b-string output to fart. Most will have a small adjustment screw inside to turn the gain down.

poles are too high, magnets damping the strings natural vibration? Does the b string now vibrate against the paper clip when plucked?

thx, i have secreted a strip of blue LED's along the width of the pedalcase, above the channel of the wiring bus - you can see the red lead poking out at the end on the left, when its plugged it it issues an eerie blue glow for absolutely no reason whatsoever Some minor surgery had to occur to cram the mini polytune into place.

will you take a western union transfer?

I love these threads I will see your cryogenic valves and raise you a £5000/metre speaker cable. [font=inherit][size=2]Not just any speaker cable. The marketing blurb for the Kimber Select KS-6068 is unequivocal: “Listening confirms that they are significantly better, with a lower noise floor and even better detail retrieval and transparency.”[/size][/font] [font=inherit][size=2]And just in case your hi-fi system is just too far away from your speakers, you can upgrade to the 3.5m variant for £21,387.57. Yes, that’s more than £5,000 per metre[/size][/font] [font=inherit][size=2]Read more: [url="http://www.pcpro.co.uk/blogs/2011/02/08/the-most-expensive-cable-in-the-world/#ixzz1yqSQO3Uu"]The most expensive cable in the world? | PC Pro blog[/url] [url="http://www.pcpro.co.uk/blogs/2011/02/08/the-most-expensive-cable-in-the-world/#ixzz1yqSQO3Uu"]http://www.pcpro.co..../#ixzz1yqSQO3Uu[/url][/size][/font] These are a snip too: [font=inherit][size=2]http://www.cheshireaudio.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Nordost.html[/size][/font]

Ahem, back to pedal boards for a sec, go get a room chaps. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/7443376626/][/url] A modest selection reshuffled for a big gig this sat, mixture of commercial boxes plus a few home made clones. Harmonic exciter from MadBean Bloviator pcb (BBE Sonic Stomp clone) - this is an outstanding pedal for enhancing the presence of bass or guitar, I'm totally in love with this pedal. Budget GLX (boss limiter clone) at the right - great little unit for very little money. Chorus is the small clone (tonepad pcb) with depth switch, and theres a gratuitous mammoth thrown in for good measure.

drop the pickup down a bit on the B side, see if that clears it up. If your B string doesnt show reduced diameter windings before or at the nut then that's another potential problem avoided.

thats a lot of B rattle. If all the other strings action is ok then can you do the following: 1) Check the B string isn't sitting on its reduced windings in the nut - most B's will have uniform thickness for 35" then taper down in 1 or 2 stages to the windings. 2) Can you raise the saddle for the B to give more clearance? 3) Measure the action at the 15th fret and compare to the E - whats the action? 2 or 3mm?

[quote name='Ant' timestamp='1340365762' post='1703361'] ok, wondered if someone would be able to help me make sense of a few pictures (cant upload them now as im at work but will do in the PM) i have a mission engineering expression pedal, with one output for line6 pedals (mono jack) now i cant use this to control anything else as most things use TRS for expression right? someone over on talkbass has the same exp pedal as me but with an extra TRS output as well, he's sent me some iphone pics of the insides and i just wondered if this would be as easy a mod as it sounds. ive no real experience of modding pedals but i feel like giving this a go so i can do more with my pedalboard. would i just need an extra jack and some bits of wire? or am i totally underestimating this?? edit: if anyone wants the pics whilst im at work i can email them over [/quote] send me a pic, or link via a pm, I'll have a look for you.

basses dont need that much - its not nigel tuffnell's Les Paul. Too much sustain leads to lack of clarity. You end up struggling to mute it when you have too much, just gives you extra work.

[url="http://www.efoam.co.uk/Spackaging.php"]http://www.efoam.co.uk/Spackaging.php[/url] http://www.efoam.co.uk/closed-cell-polyethylene.php the closed cell polyethylene sheets should do the job well

milky white appearance will be water-based emulsion polymer varnish - either acrylic or polyurethane or a mix of the two, to comply with modern EU regs on solvent usage, water-based for retail market is now prevalent. Now you've started its best to continue, 4 or 5 light coats, good time to thoroughly dry between coats to build up the gloss. Some wet rub back with 1000 grit between coats to remove any imperfections. If you switch now to a different based lacquer like solvent or 2 part you risk causing softening to the earlier coating or interferer with the drying of the new one.

omg, this crosses the line between hand relic'ed and rescued from a house fire.

Ones I'd like to try but haven't yet: Warwick thumb

its very unlikely the paint will flake off following a small localised dint like this. You could put a spot of clear epoxy on it but you'd have to buy a can to use a tenth of a gramme, it may not be worth the effort. Pre-relic'ed anyone?

The TL071's have much bigger headroom before starting to clip / distort compared to the 741's. However, some distortion circuits require a bit of extra noise from the 741 topping out to give their characteristic tones. If you want clean, stick with the 071's. After soldering a few of my own home-etched pcb's, the Tonepad ones are a delight, the solder just drops off onto the holes. I'd also really recommend the Madbean pedals pcb's as well - also rear-coated, a breeze to solder and very intelligently laid out. Big +1 for Brian. Thanks for your comments MancFox, I have got thru a shedload of Doctor Tweeks plastic-jacketed pots now, really good quality feel to them, not scratchy at all, they eliminate shorting issues as does the addition of the plastic glowplate on the back when space is short. Now I've made all the pedals I've hankered for, I'm resting up my soldering iron for a few months to focus more on becoming a better bass player.

some ladle it with Nitromorse then put it into a couple of black bin bags for a few hours, that way the solvents don't evaporate off but concentrate in the confined space to do a deeper job. Anyway its an orrible messy job.

congrats - you've finished all the nasty stuff, now it starts to get more fun

with £2k I'd buy a strat and a les paul second hand then spend the rest on toys

Final custom delay pedal build for our guitarist, he wanted a jagermeister-themed enclosure. This is the rebote 2.5 tonepad pcb circuit, no mods. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/7170322343/][/url] Here with perspex glowplate being positioned, you can see the single LED in the centre poking thru with its domed top sanded flat. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/7355535312/][/url] Enclosure graphics [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/7355536196/][/url] You can get a near-endless delay repeat on max setting, with some analog tail-off of the high freqs as delay time increases. PT2399 chip gives max delay time of about 550ms. A good project build and the tonepad pcb's are great quality.